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Grip Screw Bushing-Removal

7K views 67 replies 21 participants last post by  DD_USMC 
#1 ·
I am getting ready to put on two new pairs of gorgeous checkered ironwood grips from High Figure Grips. These grips are going on a pair of Colt Gold Cup National Match pistols, 9mm and 45 ACP.

I think I have discovered what is meant by "staked" bushings! After getting out my flashlight and loupe, the back of the bushings appear to have "dimples" around the bottom of the bushings. I was hoping to use some blue Lock Tite on some new Challis grip screw bushings with the proper O-rings.

I smurfed up one bushing and then I looked real close. Grrr....

So I just ordered the grip screw bushing removal tool from Challis.

I am going to have to tell my friend that his soldering iron is dead.

ANY OTHER INSIGHT OR PITFALLS I SHOULD WATCH OUT FOR?
 
#2 ·
The Challis tool works great!!! I would have been willing to send it to you for usage but I'm sure you will end up being glad you got one.
Good luck with the project.

FYI.... I don't use Loctite when I install the Challis bushings.... but that's just me.
 
#3 ·
Ironwood grips are my favorite.
<-----------

You chose the best with your Challis bushings. A hex drive bushing makes much more sense than a small slot that gets buggered up with a screwdriver. I installed mine without loctite and have never had a problem. I figured I could always loctite them later if they loosened.
 
#8 ·
I am not a Prime member. I also ordered some more bushings and O-rings as I always like to have them on hand! No tax on my order and cheap shipping.
 
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#15 ·
Keep up the suggestions as I think I have thoroughly tagged this so others can find it easily!

USPS was supposed to deliver my grips today, but they haven't yet. They arrived at the local PO at 1239 today.
 
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#17 ·
Not having ever seen this before but a lifetime of working with threaded items that needed to be undone. When you get your Challis tool, try puting some thin cutting fluid on the staked bushing. Use the tool to turn the bushing back & forth. if the bushing was staked into those pockets it MIGHT use those pocket sides to move the bushing material back to its original shape enough that it may unscrew.
Suggestion #2 would be to use a drillpress if possible to drill the bushing center a hair smaller than the thread minor diameter. Of course damage to the frame holes will require tapping threads to oversize bushing specs.

Good luck...... patience is your best tool.
 
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#19 ·
Not having ever seen this before but a lifetime of working with threaded items that needed to be undone. When you get your Challis tool, try puting some thin cutting fluid on the staked bushing. Use the tool to turn the bushing back & forth. if the bushing was staked into those pockets it MIGHT use those pocket sides to move the bushing material back to its original shape enough that it may unscrew.
Suggestion #2 would be to use a drillpress if possible to drill the bushing center a hair smaller than the thread minor diameter. Of course damage to the frame holes will require tapping threads to oversize bushing specs.

Good luck...... patience is your best tool.
If I have to drill it, I have had luck with drilling to almost the same size an crushing what's left...

John Harrison in another post recommended a #2 straight flute extractor for use in thin walled stuff. I have seen spiral flute extractors do nothing on pipe except leave what appears to be lands & grooves.

Just to be on the safe side I will heat this up with a soldering iron for about a minute first.
 
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#18 ·
Careful with those staked bushings. I've also used the easy out method, pretty certain I've used left hand threaded drill on Colt staked bushings - IMO the toughest of the bunch. I hate staked bushings! Overkill for certain. I do put a dab of blue loktite when installing new bushings, a bit of heat from soldering and they always easily are removed. Go slow and try not to become frustrated, my main enemy. Good luck
 
#22 ·
I just bought a set of smaller extractors as it is one of those things that I use once in a while!

THANKS FOR TAKING CARE OF ME! IT'S THE ADDICTS WAY! :D:D:D
I actually think the challis tool will work as good as any extractor.....
However, I have a series of tapered hand reamers if you want to open the I.D. of the bushing so that the walls can collapse easier. I think I would do that and then use the Challis tool.
Your call.... if you want I'll send them your way.
Reed instrument
 
#24 ·
I actually think the challis tool will work as good as any extractor.....
However, I have a series of tapered hand reamers if you want to open the I.D. of the bushing so that the walls can collapse easier. I think I would do that and then use the Challis tool.
Your call.... if you want I'll send them your way.
View attachment 528029
Thanks for the offer, I may take you up on it. Right now I am waiting on the Challis tool, as both of these Gold Cups have the same grip bushing set up and I will be patient and wait for the tool to arrive.

I have only smurfed one of the bushings and may still be able to remove it using the Challis tool.
 
#33 ·
I honestly don't own one of the challis removal tools, I thought about buying one, but wasn't going to buy one for standard and slim bushings. I've always been able to use a screw extractor on any that I had problems with. But, I am usually planning on replacing them anyway and not putting old ones back in.. I also thought someone told me however that the slim tool could be used to remove both the slim and the standard bushings? I am pretty sure someone told me this once.
 
#35 · (Edited)
After looking at the video on the Challis website I figured it was worth the price, especially if it works with staked bushings! I don't know if the slim will work on both.

I do now have a straight flute extractor set just in case. John Harrison recommended using a #2 straight flute extractor due to the thin wall. Personal experience in other areas makes me hope he is right as the straight flute will help me with other things at work.

I will be putting together a comprehensive thread on all of this once I am finished. Hopefully it will be a sticky for others to refer to in the future with photographs. The boss gave me a new phone and the camera is amazing! It sure beats the heck out of a magnifying glass!

Steve, again many thanks for the info on the 0.236-60 straight tap for chasing threads! :grin:
 
#40 ·
STOP!
WAIT for the challis tool.
Clean those broken pieces off it and install the tool. Then twist it out.

The bushings in one of my Colt commanders had X pattern stakes in them like the pic you posted. The tool took them right out. It should fit over what’s left of that bushing and remove it.
Thanks much 7.62Kolectr! That is my plan at the moment.

Once I get the tool, should I wiggle it back and forth just a MICRON?
 
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#42 · (Edited)
I respectfully disagree with some of these postings.
I have used the slim tool on both bushings. I don't, however, think you can use the standard tool for a slim bushing. It bottoms out on the frame.
A slim tool should be able to work a bushing in both directions (tighten direction slightly) as all bushings aren't EXACTLY the same length.

You may have to use a standard grip SCREW when using a slim tool on a standard bushing for added thread grip length. (I seem to recall that.... but my memory is what it is)
 
#51 ·
@Colorado Sonny

Did you get the Challis tool, what's the update ?
USPS kept saying that the Challis tool would be delivered on 7/6/20. Slow delivery even for USPS coming from Sandy, UT to Glenwood Springs, CO. Then USPS said it was delivered on 7/3/20! I had already checked the mail box and it wasn't in there, went back down and the padded envelope was sitting on the grass next to the mail boxes!

Since the bushing was really smurfed up, I had to make some fine adjustments to the damaged part with my Leatherman. I was then able to get the Challis tool head on and in what was left of the slot. I tightened the provided screw down and ran the bar through the head and after a little resistance the bushing broke loose and I was able to remove it!

I then took the tap that I got at Amazon and dipped it in some Mobil 1 and chased the threads. After cleaning up the oil from the threads I could easily hand thread on a Challis bushing.

Now I have seven more to go so I can mount these desert ironwood grips on the two Gold Cups.

There is one thing that I can say about Challis products, they have never let me down. Bryan is also a great guy to deal with.

I will put together a seperate thread with all the pictures in the next week.
 
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