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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Been working on this for a bit now planing it out and trying to figure out how to go about it. I bought the SARCO 16“ carbine kit for the 1911. Arguably the nicest part of the kit is the leather holster. The 16 inch barrel is cheap and straight. Plan is to have the hood welded up and hard fit. Only cause I can. Well see how it shoots later down the road. The stock is not bad really. The mainspring housing was ok but the lower pin hole that holds the MSH was bored of center and the pin will not go through one side of the frame and out the other. I have a new one being made.

Ive bought Rock Island Armory Gov Frame that will be it’s forever home. I have a Fusion 6 inch slide sitting around that a build fizzled out for. A majority of the parts are going to be EGW, Cylinder & Slide Ignition kit, kensight front and rear sights.

I have a local leather worker who is working to move the gun portion of the holster down a bit to house a 6inch 1911. Over all it’s an odd ball but fun. Most of the guns I like to shoot are odd ball guns so this should fit it. When done it will be a fun range toy.

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At first I was like "why?"

Then you said "odd ball" and "range toy..." now I want to know how it shoots.

I'd think the cheap / thin 16" barrel would potentially oscillate from harmonics and have poor accuracy.

I also suspect velocity will be poor depending on the powder used and the slide timing, if the bullet is still half-way down the barrel when the breech opens - or will it be a single shot? So maybe use a slower powder and use a squared off firing pin block?

I suspect that cutting that thing down to 8" would be a better play.

Sent from my SM-G991U1 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
At first I was like "why?"

Then you said "odd ball" and "range toy..." now I want to know how it shoots.


I'd think the cheap / thin 16" barrel would potentially oscillate from harmonics and have poor accuracy.

I also suspect velocity will be poor depending on the powder used and the slide timing, if the bullet is still half-way down the barrel when the breech opens - or will it be a single shot? So maybe use a slower powder and use a squared off firing pin block?

I suspect that cutting that thing down to 8" would be a better play.


Sent from my SM-G991U1 using Tapatalk
I wish I could cut it down to 8 inches. But then I would have to tax stamp it. Really don’t want to go that route. I’m working with a smith right now that might cut my 45 blank into a bull barrel for this. The blank was for an enfield conversion that I lost intrest in and have sitting around for a few years now. We went a different route with the enfield that was more fun.
 

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How much does the end of that barrel rise when the chamber end drops during cycle? Seems like it would be rough on the barrel link and the bushing or slide nose.

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
How much does the end of that barrel rise when the chamber end drops during cycle? Seems like it would be rough on the barrel link and the bushing or slide nose.

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good question. Not sure though. I’ve yet to install a link. It does not come with one. As of now I think I’m going to have the barrel welded up so as to hard fit it. Then I can get those numbers for ya. But don’t wait on pins and needles is going to take a while.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Picked up a Rock Island Armory frame. It will be the permanent home for the carbine. The Fusion Slide is a n extremely tight fit. It will need some stoning to find a final fit. In the pics the slide will not slide any further aft then it is now. I quick fitted some other parts to have an idea of the frame and over all fit. The bushing comp will come off. It’s the only one that I have that fits as of now. The biggest thing that is off is the machining around the trigger guard. It just looking lazy and half assed. That is ok though. This is going to be a range toy to have fun with anyway.

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For comparison. Look at the trigger guard and lines on the SDS vs Rock Island Armory. Minor but annoying. Will still make for a really good build.
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Just finished fitting the Fusion Firearms 6 inch slide. It started out as a very tight fit that would not go any further aft than the area where the hammer is. After lots of measuring and lots of work using stones I was able to get it to slide all the way aft and introduce zero vertical or lateral play. The Everglades tools have been outstanding. Everglades - 1911 Frame Rail Sanding or Stoning Tools

There where some drag marks on the tapers of the slide cause by a bur on the dust cover of the frame. After some persuasion from some sandpaper and files it is no longer dragging. However while selling the drag marks out of the slide I am covered a lot of machining and tool marks left behind by fusion. Not a big deal as I will be going over the entire slide as it is anyway in order to smooth it all up for bluing.

I use zero lapping compound this time which is a first for me. Using the Everglades tool I snuck up on the 1000 grit stone and is the last 15 to 20 minutes using it. However right at the end the stone unfortunately broke. I found lots of drag and tension being caused by the top of the rails on the frame and using the remaining piece of the 1000 grit stone was able to polish up the top of the frame to the point where the slide runs like a slick top. I am quite happy with the outcome of this project so far. Next will be fitting the extractor, firing pin, firing pin stop, and barrel bushing all from EGW.
Have a look at my Instagram account to see a vid of the slide. Still need to remove the last of the dykem but once done it’s going to sound and run awesome.

http://instagr.am/p/COu5ihFriBg/
Nate

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What is the length of the frame bridge (barrel bed measured from the vertical impact surface to the top of the feed ramp)?
It looks pretty short in the pictures.
 
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Dremel jockey
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My personal minimum is .246".
I'm glad to learn the pics were deceiving!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
My personal minimum is .246".
I'm glad to learn the pics were deceiving!
My concern is the lip of the feed ramp is right up at the aft ledge of the feed ramp. There is suppose to be a gap. Don’t have the specs in front of me. Will know more when I get further down the rabbit hole.
 
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