1911 Gov. barrel link post slide barrel fitting

Discussion in '1911 Gunsmithing' started by Keith Spaventa, Aug 12, 2020.

  1. Keith Spaventa

    Keith Spaventa New Member

    4
    Aug 12, 2020
    Although I've built 1911 in the past, the frame, slide and barrel were pre-fit. Now I'm taking the next step in building. I purchased a frame and slide from Caspian and a Wilson Combat drop in barrel. I fit the slide to frame first. From what I can see, I have fit the upper lugs with .0445 lock up. I used Brownells lower lug cutter and cut the feet till the back of the slide matched with the back of the frame and safety can now engage. I can put the slide stop in and it seems to cycle fine with the barrel locking up in the upper luggs and releasing. But when I reinstall the barrel link, and use the slide stop the slide is pushed back again on the frame. I don't think the feet are riding on the slide stop but rather on the link. I've tried a smaller link, but it did not help. I've seen somewhere you can file the inside of the link into an oval shape. Does anyone have any experience with this?
    K
     
  2. Welder49

    Welder49 Well-Known Member

    179
    May 3, 2020
    I haven’t personally but I just finished watching Hilton Yam’s 10-8 Performance Duty Tune video series and he did that.
     

  3. switchback

    switchback Well-Known Member

    Jun 2, 2014
    I'm no pro, and may get corrected by our resident top shelf pros, but when I took my gunsmith classes, the rear fitment of slide / frame had absolutely nothing to do with barrel fitment. Instead lower lugs were slowly cut untill the thumb safety was approx 1/16" loose in the slide safety notch. The rear was blended almost as a final step. Not saying that yours is fit poorly, just saying not how I was taught. Best of luck and WELCOME to ADDICTS!! 20200804_102755.jpg
     
    1911 crazed and Uncle Bob like this.
  4. jglenn

    jglenn Member

    89
    Jul 8, 2016
    Measure from the link pin hole in the barrel to the locking area of the lower lugs. Then measure the inside length between the link's two holes
    The link measurement should be .001 to .002 less than your barrel measurement.. this allows the link to be out of the way in lockup.. you can also simply look at the installed link when it is in lockup position to see if it is lower than the barrel lugs.
     
  5. Badabing11

    Badabing11 I gotta have more cowbell

    Sep 6, 2015
  6. Keith Spaventa

    Keith Spaventa New Member

    4
    Aug 12, 2020
    JGlenn, I agree with what you are talking about. This is what I believe my problem is. I think my distance is too big. .0205 is what I'm coming up with and I can obviously see the feet are not making contact with the slide stop pin. Would I file down the inside of the link to make it more oval in order for the pin to support the feet?
     
  7. Keith Spaventa

    Keith Spaventa New Member

    4
    Aug 12, 2020
    Thanks Switchback. Nice piece. I hope to put one together as nice as this. More important functional!
     
  8. Keith Spaventa

    Keith Spaventa New Member

    4
    Aug 12, 2020
    Thanks for the reply Welder49! is this video available on the web? How can I view it?
     
  9. jglenn

    jglenn Member

    89
    Jul 8, 2016
    Which measurement is the .205? link or the barrel

    something is wrong with your measurement.. are you measuring the barrel straight up from the link pin hole to the lug surface??

    also what links #s are you using. a Standard #3 link (.278) will have aprox. .097 distance between the holes
     
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2020
  10. Uncle Bob

    Uncle Bob Well-Known Member

    Sep 22, 2017
    You do know there are multiple gunsmiths on the forum. Joe Chambers has run a thread on this.
     
  11. Welder49

    Welder49 Well-Known Member

    179
    May 3, 2020
    Its not on the web. Its a three disc dvd package. https://www.10-8performance.com/dvd-1911-duty-tune/
    Its only $25 for about 6 hours of tips and tricks. He takes a bone stock SA Mil-spec and breaks it down, goes through each component, how they work and their relationship to other parts, etc. It really is a good set of dvds to have especially if someone is new to the 1911 and would like to know more about it.
     

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