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1911 : What to look For Regarding Fit & Function ?

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If you can buy a 1911 in person and can handle it - what do you look for in terms of fit and function to get the best possible 1911 for several of the same make and series 1911's ?
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Thumb safety fit is the first thing I look at , then grip safety sensitivity , barrel lockup and if it a used piece any kind of wear present.
On a Wilson or Nighthawk that is new they are almost always flawless if it is a DW or below level I look quite carefully .
Used piece I often try and break them down if possible to look at internals - my local shop knows me and has no problem with it .
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I would study photos/threads on things like what correct feedramps and breech faces should look like. I normally don’t sweat small parts, just the things that are beyond my current capability to correct.

Edit: this also largely depends on price range.
You want to look at a guncrafter. Any guncrafter. Everything is where it’s supposed to be and functions as good or better than any premium 1911 builder in the business. And that includes full customs as well.
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I have a set of tests I do with any production pistol. I know I've mentioned them here before and just recently detailed them on the "other" site. So I'm gonna paste what I wrote there.

First, get a solid grip and give it a quick shake. If it rattles, just hand it back. If it doesn't, do the following:

1. Holding the pistol in your right hand, with your left hand rock the slide back and forth. There should be no discernable movement.
2. Same hold but left hand on the front of the slide. Try to move it up and down and side to side. There should be no discernable movement.
3. Same hold, put your left index finger tip on the muzzle and try to move the barrel up and down, side to side and in a circular motion. There should be no discernable movement.
4. Same hold, rack the slide. Once the slide has returned to battery, put your left thumb on top of the barrel hood and press down. There should be no discernable movement.
5. Same hold, try to move the hammer side to side while fully cocked. There should be no discernable movement.
6. Lock the slide back and try 1 & 2 again. There should be no discernable movement.
7. With the hammer cocked, rack the slide quickly a few times. I should feel at worst acceptable like dragging your finger tip (not nails) across a dry chalk board. At best like spreading warm butter across a pane of glass. You should not hear metal on metal scraping sounds.
8. finger on the trigger and try to move it side to side and up and down. There should be no discernable movement.

Additionally for my own builds and other custom builds I have handled, I will seat an empty mag with the slide closed. It should not take any serious force to seat it deep enough for the mag catch to lock it in. A medium light press (about 7 lbs max) is all it should take. Next press the mag release. it should be smooth and firm but not take a lot of effort. Reseat the mag, turn the pistol until it is nearly horizontal (about 10-15 degrees butt down from horizontal) press the mag release. The mag should slide completely clear of the magwell.

My standards are higher than most people's but if it won't pass all of those tests, I won't buy it. If I do the shake test and it makes noise, I don't bother going to the next test. I just hand it back. I can also tell you my own builds will pass every one of those tests or it is not finished.
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I have a set of tests I do with any production pistol. I know I've mentioned them here before and just recently detailed them on the "other" site. So I'm gonna paste what I wrote there.

First, get a solid grip and give it a quick shake. If it rattles, just hand it back. If it doesn't, do the following:

1. Holding the pistol in your right hand, with your left hand rock the slide back and forth. There should be no discernable movement.
2. Same hold but left hand on the front of the slide. Try to move it up and down and side to side. There should be no discernable movement.
3. Same hold, put your left index finger tip on the muzzle and try to move the barrel up and down, side to side and in a circular motion. There should be no discernable movement.
4. Same hold, rack the slide. Once the slide has returned to battery, put your left thumb on top of the barrel hood and press down. There should be no discernable movement.
5. Same hold, try to move the hammer side to side while fully cocked. There should be no discernable movement.
6. Lock the slide back and try 1 & 2 again. There should be no discernable movement.
7. With the hammer cocked, rack the slide quickly a few times. I should feel at worst acceptable like dragging your finger tip (not nails) across a dry chalk board. At best like spreading warm butter across a pane of glass. You should not hear metal on metal scraping sounds.
8. finger on the trigger and try to move it side to side and up and down. There should be no discernable movement.

Additionally for my own builds and other custom builds I have handled, I will seat an empty mag with the slide closed. It should not take any serious force to seat it deep enough for the mag catch to lock it in. A medium light press (about 7 lbs max) is all it should take. Next press the mag release. it should be smooth and firm but not take a lot of effort. Reseat the mag, turn the pistol until it is nearly horizontal (about 10-15 degrees butt down from horizontal) press the mag release. The mag should slide completely clear of the magwell.

My standards are higher than most people's but if it won't pass all of those tests, I won't buy it. If I do the shake test and it makes noise, I don't bother going to the next test. I just hand it back. I can also tell you my own builds will pass every one of those tests or it is not finished.
Thanks for taking the time to post details !
1. American-made
2. Boutique maker (ACW, Baer, Nighthawk, STI, Wilson, etc)
I really appreciate that you took the time to list out those steps. I’m not nearly as experienced as most on this site and that is very useful info that will help me avoid a regretful purchase. Thank you.

I have a set of tests I do with any production pistol. I know I've mentioned them here before and just recently detailed them on the "other" site. So I'm gonna paste what I wrote there.

First, get a solid grip and give it a quick shake. If it rattles, just hand it back. If it doesn't, do the following:

1. Holding the pistol in your right hand, with your left hand rock the slide back and forth. There should be no discernable movement.
2. Same hold but left hand on the front of the slide. Try to move it up and down and side to side. There should be no discernable movement.
3. Same hold, put your left index finger tip on the muzzle and try to move the barrel up and down, side to side and in a circular motion. There should be no discernable movement.
4. Same hold, rack the slide. Once the slide has returned to battery, put your left thumb on top of the barrel hood and press down. There should be no discernable movement.
5. Same hold, try to move the hammer side to side while fully cocked. There should be no discernable movement.
6. Lock the slide back and try 1 & 2 again. There should be no discernable movement.
7. With the hammer cocked, rack the slide quickly a few times. I should feel at worst acceptable like dragging your finger tip (not nails) across a dry chalk board. At best like spreading warm butter across a pane of glass. You should not hear metal on metal scraping sounds.
8. finger on the trigger and try to move it side to side and up and down. There should be no discernable movement.

Additionally for my own builds and other custom builds I have handled, I will seat an empty mag with the slide closed. It should not take any serious force to seat it deep enough for the mag catch to lock it in. A medium light press (about 7 lbs max) is all it should take. Next press the mag release. it should be smooth and firm but not take a lot of effort. Reseat the mag, turn the pistol until it is nearly horizontal (about 10-15 degrees butt down from horizontal) press the mag release. The mag should slide completely clear of the magwell.

My standards are higher than most people's but if it won't pass all of those tests, I won't buy it. If I do the shake test and it makes noise, I don't bother going to the next test. I just hand it back. I can also tell you my own builds will pass every one of those tests or it is not finished.
  • Like
Reactions: 5
I have a set of tests I do with any production pistol. I know I've mentioned them here before and just recently detailed them on the "other" site. So I'm gonna paste what I wrote there.

First, get a solid grip and give it a quick shake. If it rattles, just hand it back. If it doesn't, do the following:

1. Holding the pistol in your right hand, with your left hand rock the slide back and forth. There should be no discernable movement.
2. Same hold but left hand on the front of the slide. Try to move it up and down and side to side. There should be no discernable movement.
3. Same hold, put your left index finger tip on the muzzle and try to move the barrel up and down, side to side and in a circular motion. There should be no discernable movement.
4. Same hold, rack the slide. Once the slide has returned to battery, put your left thumb on top of the barrel hood and press down. There should be no discernable movement.
5. Same hold, try to move the hammer side to side while fully cocked. There should be no discernable movement.
6. Lock the slide back and try 1 & 2 again. There should be no discernable movement.
7. With the hammer cocked, rack the slide quickly a few times. I should feel at worst acceptable like dragging your finger tip (not nails) across a dry chalk board. At best like spreading warm butter across a pane of glass. You should not hear metal on metal scraping sounds.
8. finger on the trigger and try to move it side to side and up and down. There should be no discernable movement.

Additionally for my own builds and other custom builds I have handled, I will seat an empty mag with the slide closed. It should not take any serious force to seat it deep enough for the mag catch to lock it in. A medium light press (about 7 lbs max) is all it should take. Next press the mag release. it should be smooth and firm but not take a lot of effort. Reseat the mag, turn the pistol until it is nearly horizontal (about 10-15 degrees butt down from horizontal) press the mag release. The mag should slide completely clear of the magwell.

My standards are higher than most people's but if it won't pass all of those tests, I won't buy it. If I do the shake test and it makes noise, I don't bother going to the next test. I just hand it back. I can also tell you my own builds will pass every one of those tests or it is not finished.
As someone soon to be in the market for another semi custom.... cant tell you how much i appreciate this list.

Thank you.
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