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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all ...

After completing a build, I went to test this government .45 and discovered a failure to lock into batter after feeding a round. The last 10 or 20 thou needed to be pushed into place before the gun would fire.

Barrel bushing was not too tight. Extractor deflection and pressure was not too much. Deflection is set about 10 thou and pressure at about 25 oz.

I discovered that the left side guide block seems improperly cut. Notice in this image, the slide in the foreground (bottom) is a new slide with a properly cut guide block. The slide to the background (top) is the slide i'm talking about. The guide block that holds the round in place by the curve seems too low.




I'm interested to get some knowledgable eyes on this and provide thoughts on how to address this issue. It seems like a mill needs to go thorugh the muzzle end of the slide and gently dress it upward until enough clearance is achieved.

Am I wrong?

Thanks for your thoughts ... X


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What is the measurement difference?
If it's out of spec, might be worth the time to contact the manufacture and ask them to do the work. Obviously out of spec slides is on them, so they should do the repair.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
Well, I’d put about 1,000 45 rounds through the gun with the first barrel fitted and didn’t like the results. So I redid the barrel and put another 64 through it when the stoppages began. The problem didn’t occur until various cartridge sizes started going through, my guess is that some had case rims just a bit bigger than others.

Your idea is what I think is going on, kinda. The left side block is cut for .455 correctly, but I think the radius is cut too short (arrows).

However, I’ve since put another 150 flawless rounds through the gun after refreshing the recoil spring.


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Are the primer strikes centered or at least close to center?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Are the primer strikes centered or at least close to center?
Primer strikes are damn close to center and fitting gauge slides into firing pin hole in lockup.


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There are a lot of variables here.

Barrel throat?
Slide stop to link fit?
And on and on and on.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Did you use a gunsmith fit barrel or a drop in barrel? I think it could be a barrel link causing the problem.
Barrel is a GS fit Kart NM 45. Cycling with red rounds is flawless. Cycling with an empty chamber is flawless. Extractor is tensioned and holding the case appropriately at 25oz of pressure.

When fitting the barrel, I attempted to fit a #2 link and the slide stop was not able to travel across the cam area of the lower lugs. The #3 traveled perfectly.

There are a lot of variables here.

Barrel throat?
Slide stop to link fit?
And on and on and on.
The barrel was finish reamed to .8995 / .900 depth and the chamber is a mirror. Slide stop to link was addressed and infinis above (I think, but if there’s something else I should look at please say so)

Lastly, there was a clear witness mark in the left side guide block where the case rim was ramming up against the radius there. I think relieving about .002-.005” of material gets me to Shangri-La.

Otherwise, this gun runs flawlessly. I really appreciate these thoughts.


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Discussion Starter #11
This could be a hood miss alignment how did you fit the hood
I thought if that as well. The hood fits laterally with .003 of play and against the breech face with a clear witness mark showing even contact for hood length.


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The Tinker
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Hey all ...

After completing a build, I went to test this government .45 and discovered a failure to lock into batter after feeding a round. The last 10 or 20 thou needed to be pushed into place before the gun would fire.

Barrel bushing was not too tight. Extractor deflection and pressure was not too much. Deflection is set about 10 thou and pressure at about 25 oz.

I discovered that the left side guide block seems improperly cut. Notice in this image, the slide in the foreground (bottom) is a new slide with a properly cut guide block. The slide to the background (top) is the slide i'm talking about. The guide block that holds the round in place by the curve seems too low.




I'm interested to get some knowledgable eyes on this and provide thoughts on how to address this issue. It seems like a mill needs to go thorugh the muzzle end of the slide and gently dress it upward until enough clearance is achieved.

Am I wrong?

Thanks for your thoughts ... X


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Who's slide is that? Reason I ask is I have exactly the same problem with a Jem Slide I recently bought. SUpposed to be 40 cal, but that reference shoulder is way too low.

The barrel is fitted to the slide, but if I put a dummy round in the chamber the round prevents the barrel from going completely into battery. It starts, i.e., the barrel starts to engage the upper lugs, but the barrel doesn't even get close to full battery engagement.

Now I have to figure out how to fix this POS, or buy a Caspian slide...
 

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The eagle; er, the Baer has landed! Thanks again!
Who's slide is that? Reason I ask is I have exactly the same problem with a Jem Slide I recently bought. SUpposed to be 40 cal, but that reference shoulder is way too low.

The barrel is fitted to the slide, but if I put a dummy round in the chamber the round prevents the barrel from going completely into battery. It starts, i.e., the barrel starts to engage the upper lugs, but the barrel doesn't even get close to full battery engagement.

Now I have to figure out how to fix this POS, or buy a Caspian slide...
I usually go with Caspian slides..... but then again I'm just a hobbyist..
Have you talked to JEM... Elliott has always worked what few issues I thought I had.
 
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The Tinker
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I usually go with Caspian slides..... but then again I'm just a hobbyist..
Have you talked to JEM... Elliott has always worked what few issues I thought I had.
I'm a hobbyist also. :)

After measuring and comparing the breachface to another slide I have, the breachface at the registration is a bit narrower (3-4 thou?) and the radius at the top of the cut is larger and not quite as high. Again it's not much, but it does prevent the barrel with a cartridge in it from going completely into battery.

The slide is already altered (can't return it), by me, and I know what needs to be done to fix it. I was just curious what slide the OP was using, to see if there is a trend here. I've been having niggling issues with this Jem stuff since I got it, and today was just one of those days were NOTHING went the way I expected/wanted it to. :bang:

Stuff happens. Good thing I planned on this being my last ever build. :)
 
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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Who's slide is that? Reason I ask is I have exactly the same problem with a Jem Slide I recently bought. SUpposed to be 40 cal, but that reference shoulder is way too low.

The barrel is fitted to the slide, but if I put a dummy round in the chamber the round prevents the barrel from going completely into battery. It starts, i.e., the barrel starts to engage the upper lugs, but the barrel doesn't even get close to full battery engagement.

Now I have to figure out how to fix this POS, or buy a Caspian slide...
It’s not a JEM slide, but I agree with TheCollector. Elliot will hook you up, I think even if you modified it, it’s difficult to modify the guide block we’re talking about.


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The Tinker
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Thanks x39, but I'll fix what I have. Took me 7 freaking weeks to get this slide, and even if Elliot (who I've talked to and seems like a stand up guy), offered a brand new slide I'm not interested in waiting for it.

Besides, with the luck I'm having with this pistol, the new slide would be a sloppy fit on the frame I machined for this slide. :rolleyes: :)

Again, thanks for the reply.
 
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