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1911 Pistol Smith
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Discussion Starter #1
@pistolwretch, since you were so much help the last time along with many others, I thought I would directly ask your help on this one as well. I have an aluminum frame I intend on refinishing,.. What is the best bead blasting prep for this project? I know it should be light on the psi. I have only a small area exposed around the butt of the frame the rest of it is hard coat anodized. But a slight amount of bare metal again at the butt of the frame.. I have a venue to have it re-anodized if need be, but if I can just lightly bead blast and then recoat that would be great.
 

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I'm not @pistolwretch but I will offer my .2 cents.

The 1911 smiths I've talked to about my EMP project and the anodizing. Said they had concerns about re anodizing and pin holes as well as the rails. You can not control the anodizing process well enough to eliminate build up in tight tolerance areas. They told me to lightly blast with 120g alum. oxide the remaining anodizing just to etch it a bit while trying to keep as much intact as possible in the high wear areas like the frame rails and inside the magwell. Then Cerakote my desired color.
 

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1911 Pistol Smith
Joined
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9,449 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I'm not @pistolwretch but I will offer my .2 cents.

The 1911 smiths I've talked to about my EMP project and the anodizing. Said they had concerns about re anodizing and pin holes as well as the rails. You can not control the anodizing process well enough to eliminate build up in tight tolerance areas. They told me to lightly blast with 120g alum. oxide the remaining anodizing just to etch it a bit while trying to keep as much intact as possible in the high wear areas like the frame rails and inside the magwell. Then Cerakote my desired color.
Okay that is one media I don't have after my buying spree just a few weeks back, lol wonder what the equivalent would be for garnet or glass bead.. Do, you know if the 120 alum oxide is considered to be fine, medium? Now as far as Duracoat goes, it claims that one of the best finishes for their coatings base is either anodized alum, or parkerizing. It says that both have a good rooting for duracoat finish to adhere to. I know a lot of guys swear by Cerakote, but to be honest, I believe this duracoat to be just as durable if allowed to cure for a few weeks before heavy use. The guy I did the heritage for had it down here the other day, and had only fired 3 rounds through it in the last 6 weeks, we put a couple mags through it, but while I was inspecting it to oil and prep for shooting I noticed a little over spray on one of the rails of the slide where I didn't want it. I took 400 grit sand paper to remove and it really didn't want to come off. I did finally get it by concentrating on just where I wanted it off but, it was a little bit of a job getting it off. Also the rest of the gun, appeared to have a very hard finish on it. In my understanding it is basically a two part epoxy and having used this in the past for concrete garage floors, and various other applications, I can honestly say that when allowed to cure properly and with some patience after installation, it is an extremely durable finish, and this product is base along the same concept and same materials... I was absolutely impressed with the bonding on just a bead blasted surface.
 
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