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4K views 24 replies 19 participants last post by  Ingramite 
#1 · (Edited)
Am I the only one that bathes their guns in oil?

I'm talking way beyond regular maintenance. I'm talking a slathering mess everywhere.

I do this often to all my guns, AR's too.

I break them down entirely, soak/coat everything for a few mins, then wipe it all down with a microfiber and reassemble.

I just love the way they turn out after a good bath. Really brings out the finish in most guns. DLC and cerekote really look nice with a coat of oil, soaks it in.

M-PRO7 is my choice of soap currently.

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#2 ·
No............... you are not the only one.
I don't take it to quite that extreme but....... all the guns in my safe are wet enough to run at any time. Even if they are not run for a while they get a good dabbing of FP10. Especially the wood and petrified grips. A light coat and a brief microfiber cloth wipe off.
I tell buyers of my guns.. "yor gunna git em kleen an wet"
 
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#3 ·
Can't say if you are the only one or not........ I have never bathed my guns in oil personally, I fully coat internal points with Jardine Extreme grease after each cleaning but no need for oils in or on the exterior of the gun thus far.
 
#7 ·
Check this out there is a ton of evidence why you do not need to over lube your pistols.

Another great thread is the favorite lube post.

Too much lube is not ever needed.
 
#9 · (Edited)
My 1911s get put away pretty wet on the inside with a lighter coat on the outside of the gun. They run well and don’t get too cruddy with shooting.

I am learning to show restraint with My ARs and just focus on friction surfaces and specific lube points. The ARs get crudded and gunked up fast when over-oiled.

My plastic guns get a light cost on most interior surfaces but not super wet. They also get gunked up faster when over-oiled.

In other words the level of needed lubing seems to be proportional to how tight things are inside the gun. The 1911s have a few more tight fitting surfaces inside and respond best to lots of oil.
 
#10 · (Edited)
I don't think I was understood here, take a look at my pictures, they have all been soaked, and reassembled and are NOT soaking wet. I think you are all assuming I mean they are dripping wet when I shoot them, lube them, or put them in the safe. No, that isn't true, nor what I said. I'm not "over lubing" my firearms.

I soak them, wipe them clean, and reassemble. I lightly lube the correct area's during reassembly. If you see a DLC gun that hasn't been soaked next to one that has, the deep rich color of the DLC stands out and on the DLC gun that hasn't looks grey'ish in color.

It brings out the "Black" in a lot of finishes, this is not for lube or maintenance like I said, this is more for bringing out the finish and rust prevention (on my blued guns), if anything.
 
#14 ·
I knew what ya meant, and I agree - the oil really brings out the black. Works great with melonite as well, especially if you let it soak for a few minutes. Then you wipe them all down, lightly lube the proper areas and they're not only ready to go, but look great too!

*NOTE - be careful of what you use on melonite, however I've never had any problems with any oils so far. I believe it's the cleaners and CLP's that cause an issue...
 
#17 ·
The Collector & I both use a liberal amount of FP10 . Tho. I keep it off of my good wood grips.

Seems at my maturing years ,I still have a lifetime supply of FP10. The original stuff ... MPC made in Butler Co. Penna.
 
#19 ·
Nope. The exterior of all my 1911s are dry.
 
#20 ·
I admit to oiling my guns as well. I keep a nice thin coat over all metal surfaces while they are in a safe. I just wipe them off with a micro fiber cloth before I go to the range. I have even started using rig grease as a light coating over some of my guns. It’s really easy to wipe off too. Can’t see it doing any harm.


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#21 ·
Back to the thread- a nice coating of oil wont hurt any gun that sits for years, especially if you don't dehumidify your safe.

But for regular-use guns it would be annoying to eat that carbon slurry coming off the slide and out of the trigger assembly at every range session!

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#22 ·
New, and new to me, guns get washed with hot water and Hornady parts cleaner in an ultrasonic cleaner. Then dried in a food dryer at 135 degrees of hot air, after drying the parts are put into a CLP bath and soaked for a minimum of 4 hours, usually 12 hours. Excess CLP wiped off then parts wiped down with a Pro-Shot silicon cloth, reassemble , and final wipe down with silicon cloth. Parts and sub assemblies get oiled lightly or greased as needed. I like clean weapons.
 
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