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AR Facts..

3609 Views 119 Replies 36 Participants Last post by  monadh
I figured I'd start a thread on "AR Facts" that hopefully some Addicts will find informative. Most of us here are gun enthusiast like myself. I'm into just about anything that fires lead out the end. But I especially like the AR platform. It's all American! And no gun collection is complete without a few or more.


There is a wealth of knowledge here amongst us Addicts so those of you that have something to contribute please do. Thanks.
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Starting off with .223 and 5.56 easily the most popular AR's by far. Here is some info on these calibers and clarification on the types of AR's that fire these rounds safely.

All of my AR's that fire .223 or 5.56 are .223 Wylde.


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AR15 FACT: While there are reasonably generous tolerances, they are not "plug-and-play" or "big boy Legos". Hard to tell if you're wrenching together a range toy that only sees a few mags a year. If you're looking for a that shoots tight, runs reliably and is going to give you 20, 30, 40k problem-free rounds, it's not as simple. While folks have gone nuts with the specs SOTAR (School of the American Rifle) puts out, it shows that it's not as cut-and-dry as many assumed.

(Note: Getting into building large-frame is even worse with multiple pattern styles to contend with...SR25, AR10, and other *******/proprietary designs)


AR15 Observation: Given the above, even when attempting to assemble identical guns or buying duplicate models, don't assume everything will be the same. The precision world has long since known that every barrel has it's own personality...and until you know what you've got, don't assume anything. Just because brand 'x' gave you a sub-MOA with your favorite ammo flavor doesn't mean every one will.


Driving AR15's: If shooting for the utmost precision, one needs to be wary of the forces applied to various parts of the rifle (specifically the fore end and barrel). Different barrel nuts/rail construction, different barrel thickness and materials will all respond differently to loads/force. Users quickly find that if zeroing from say a bench off a bag/rest and then move to a prone bipod, impact shifts may occur (especially if load is applied to the bipod), and then going to say a sling-supported/barricade can yied yet another POI.


AR15 Observation: No secret there's a ton of garbage components, but there's also a great deal of unnecessary add-ons that (at best) do nothing or hinder function. Case in point...ask any forum about buffers and springs:
"I run silent capture...it's the best"
"I run Tubb flatwire...it's the best"
"I run Geissele braided Super 42...it's the best"
"I run Vltor A5...it's the best"
"I run Surefire OBC...it's the best"
The "best" system is what works in tandem with YOUR gas system. Your gas system being not only your system length (pistol/carbine/mid/intermediate KAC/Intermediate/Rifle/Rifle +#) but also the gas port size, barrel length, ammo type, and suppression (if any).


...that's a start at least.
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I've owned a large variety of guns over the years, including a pair of full autos, but I finally bought my first AR four weeks ago. I wasn't looking to buy, but it fell into my lap. I had an issued Colt for years, but it got turned in when I hung it up. This one will stay the way it is and won't get decorated with tactical exuberance. Late '70s Colt SP1.

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AR Fact- the first AR you will deck out with more **** than you will ever use. You'll see YouToobers running with IR lights; lasers; and a host of other crap- so you'll buy them, too.
By the time you take your 3rd AR class, you'll strip everything off aside from a red dot, backup sight of some type and a light.

We all do it. It's Barbie for men.
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They multiply in the safe.
Wood Gun accessory Auto part Gun barrel Trigger
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AR Fact- the first AR you will deck out with more **** than you will ever use. You'll see YouToobers running with IR lights; lasers; and a host of other crap- so you'll buy them, too.
By the time you take your 3rd AR class, you'll strip everything off aside from a red dot, backup sight of some type and a light.

We all do it. It's Barbie for men.
Ain't that the truth! By the time I was done with my first and only pre-built AR that was a 300 Blackout pistol btw it looked like a swiss army AR, lol. Now I keep it down to necessities.
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@pointblank4445 I've found that the tolerances are much tighter than I was led to believe when I first began to build my own. I've not experienced any of the slop or play that other's have spoken of yet. Good thing for me as I hate a loose firearm. I once owned a Colt 1911 that rattled it was so loose, :LOL: I like Colts BTW Addicts so don't hate on me!


They have been called adult Lego's by many including me, jokingly though. They are not a complicated design but you need to have the proper tools and at least the right level of skill to be successful. I carefully plan out each build and I'm never in a hurry when I do. I put a good amount of research into parts that I've not used before I buy. I never ever buy parts with the mindset "because they are the most expensive they must be the best" that's true sometimes but not always. I try to stick to buying the highest quality parts for the money. My goal at the end is to have a very solid and 100% reliable build that looks good and performs flawlessly. It doesn't matter if it rarely gets fired of if it's one I take to every range trip.
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I've seen a piston driven LWRC go 10,000 rds. without a cleaning.
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Here is a new-ish product that I find very cool for Subsonic/super sonic & as well as supressed/ Unsuppressed changes on my AR.
(300blackout. SBR 5.5" BARREL)

EASY ACCESS, NO TOOLS REQUIRED, ADJUSTABLE GAS BLOCK by Riflespeed.



Sleeve Waist Bag Wrist Nail

Camera lens Camera accessory Camera Cameras & optics Lens
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Don’t keep spare parts about.
If you do so, these parts will soon draw in other parts, thus creating another damn rifle.
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AR15 Fact: 150 - 485 yards in the heat of a 2 gun competition = one superb weapon
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Ain't that the truth! By the time I was done with my first and only pre-built AR that was a 300 Blackout pistol btw it looked like a swiss army AR, lol. Now I keep it down to necessities.
Same with mine, but I also consider a light and sling to be “necessary”
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Dirty and lubed will run.
Clean and dry, not so much.
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It's worth investing into a nice charging handle. I have tried a bunch of different ones but now all my AR's have a Radian like this one.
They are robust and it's extended on the right side just like I like. The left isn't and I like that. The left side rests against me when I'm using my slings. They are the best and that's a fact. In my humble opinion that is.
Font Titanium Transparency Tool Fashion accessory
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I bought a bunch like that off ebay or some such. Similar design, chinamade quality - but I agree on the design.

Sent from my SM-G991U1 using Tapatalk
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Dirty and lubed will run.
Clean and dry, not so much.
You just described half my exes
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Try a 308 hydraulic buffer. It slows and smoothes the gun out. Especially on full auto’s/ slows full auto -100 rpm

Tubb flat spring helps too

I run my bolt wet. Mobile 1
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It's worth investing into a nice charging handle. I have tried a bunch of different ones but now all my AR's have a Radian like this one.
They are robust and it's extended on the right side just like I like. The left isn't and I like that. The left side rests against me when I'm using my slings. They are the best and that's a fact. In my humble opinion that is.
View attachment 1161359
The Radian is an excellent charge handle. As is the Giesselle Airborne. I have rifles with both. My all time favorite, and what I use in most of my builds is the BCM 4x4. Sometimes hard to find though.

My tip(s) for AR builds:

1) If your building a 16" theres zero reason to use the outdated carbine length gas system. Go mid-length. It will be softer shooting, easier to tune and reciprocating parts will last longer.

2) If you plan to shoot a lot...get an enhanced bolt. The JP Enterprises Enhanced bolt is a great place to start. Its a very important part that requires a degree of care and testing in the process. If you opt for the bolt based on cheap price point.........buyer be ware. You get what you pay for here.
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