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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Nice job. I got to ask, are you gonna try to serrate this slide rear?
I'm not sure yet..... You'll most likely understand later if I decide not to.

If you’re using a JEM frame, any particular reason you aren’t also using a JEM slide?
When I started doing these self builds JEM didn't offer slides. I went with Caspian and have just stuck with it.
There's an additional reason for this one..... It will be revealed when & If it ever arrives. I was informed today that it may be delayed MONTHS............ WTF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Sorry... don't get me started... :censored:
 

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I'm not sure yet..... You'll most likely understand later if I decide not to.



When I started doing these self builds JEM didn't offer slides. I went with Caspian and have just stuck with it.
There's an additional reason for this one..... It will be revealed when & If it ever arrives. I was informed today that it may be delayed MONTHS............ WTF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Sorry... don't get me started... :censored:
Please don't pull a Zoid on us.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Please don't pull a Zoid on us.
Not sure what that means..... however, I'll say this... there are no Zoidian quirks involved or intended.
 
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Discussion Starter · #24 · (Edited)
UPDATE #2

No golf this morning. :( Instead... I had to work on an irrigation system leak... Heaven forbid that Mrs. C's Hibiscus wilts from no scheduled watering. :rolleyes:

Yet I digress.... Bubba smiffin starts off today pretty mundane. I grabbed the slide stop pin and filed in the "plunger guide groove" (that's what I call it) Pic 1. I should add a note for you who aren't familiar with Harrison SSP. He has some extra build up in the area indicated by the pointing drift pin. (pic 2) I'll work that area once I have the slide and it is fitted to the frame.
My main focus today is to get the grip safety (GS) functional for doing its job. Stopping the trigger movement when NOT depressed.... and letting the trigger drop the hammer when it is engaged.
I didn't photo the the trigger stop finger (for lack of the proper name) that had to be worked. ~ my bad ~
But the ensuing pics will show that the the fitting was successful. Pic 3 & 4.
I then polished the trigger bow, disconnector & sear spring. Pic 5
After reassembly, using a rubber band vs mainspring I was recording 3 lbs 4-6 ozs. trigger pull.

Hammer cocked at 3 lbs.. (pic 5) ..... hammer released at 3+ lbs. (pic 6)
I'll leave it there for now and see where it goes at final assembly.



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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
#3

Since I don't have a Burton or BigDog mill & end mill cutter. I do my Ejector keeper roll pin notch a little differently. Using a 1/16" drill in a hex drive I spin the bit backwards in the frame hole to mark the layout dye. I start the notch with a "V" file. when I get it somewhere near the finished size I spin the drill bit clockwise by hand to finish the radius. It's worked every time I've done it. (Pics 1-3)
I'm going to start the GS blending while waiting for my slide to arrive. I think that this is good enough on the top.... staying away from the slide/frame blend area for now. (pic #4)
Perhaps tomorrow I'll get to the engaged position blending.


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Nice build. Can I give you 2 pieces of friendly advice? This is why you don’t dry fire a frame with no slide.

And you shouldn’t fit your thumb safety until the slide is on because you don’t have the actual stop point there to tell you when to stop.
792497

792498
 

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This is why you don’t dry fire a frame with no slide.
I swear I haver seen a device that clamps to the frame rails intended as a way to cushion the hammer and keep it off the frame. But I ca cn't seem to find it now. Am I crazy, or is there such a thing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Nice build. Can I give you 2 pieces of friendly advice? This is why you don’t dry fire a frame with no slide.

And you shouldn’t fit your thumb safety until the slide is on because you don’t have the actual stop point there to tell you when to stop.
View attachment 792497
View attachment 792498
Points well taken... especially about the hammer drop.
I do have a question regarding the thumb safety. I thought the "minimum" material that has to be removed is enough to clear the sear from contact. Or is the TS supposed to stop its travel with sear contact pressure? At this point I took it just to where it mars the bluing ink but not scratch it off. I felt that would be a good place to stop until I had the slide fitted. Am I going about that incorrectly?
 

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I swear I haver seen a device that clamps to the frame rails intended as a way to cushion the hammer and keep it off the frame. But I ca cn't seem to find it now. Am I crazy, or is there such a thing?
I use a piece of popcicle stick cut to fit and held in place with poster putty. Does a fine job of cushioning the hammer without getting in the way.
 

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Points well taken... especially about the hammer drop.
I do have a question regarding the thumb safety. I thought the "minimum" material that has to be removed is enough to clear the sear from contact. Or is the TS supposed to stop its travel with sear contact pressure? At this point I took it just to where it mars the bluing ink but not scratch it off. I felt that would be a good place to stop until I had the slide fitted. Am I going about that incorrectly?
If you want to fit the part more than once then by all means, do it that way. But there’s no reason to do it that way.

I fit my thumb safeties so they go about 95% of the way up into the slide notch and then meet a little bit of sear resistance for the remaining 5%. This gives me a little bit of room (margin of error) in case I need to remove more safety lug material after refinishing but still gives you a positive click up without being mushy.

There is a device that hooks up to the frame so you can dry fire it without the slide. My question is, why even do it that way? There’s no reason to test for function with the slide off. This is a state the gun was not designed to function in so doing things with the slide off makes no sense. Know what I mean?
 

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What evolution said, plus depending on hammer material and design, the hammer can get a fracture started leading to breakage later. Don't dry fire a 1911 or ar15 without upper/slide on, or without a hammer catch to soften fall of hammer.

I've been where the op is, waiting on some parts so let's get what we got fitted and worked over. I found its better to just wait for all parts to arrive. Granted dehorning of frame and magwell blending can be done, along with grip safety blending. Looks like a great project and it's coming along nicely, and that's how I fit the ejector retaining pin also.
 

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...

There is a device that hooks up to the frame so you can dry fire it without the slide. My question is, why even do it that way? There’s no reason to test for function with the slide off. This is a state the gun was not designed to function in so doing things with the slide off makes no sense. Know what I mean?
For the most part I agree. However, when I'm setting the take up on the trigger it's a big enough pia removing the seat, disco and spring then reinstalling them for every tweak. Putting the complete slide back on every time is just unnecessary.
 
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I swear I haver seen a device that clamps to the frame rails intended as a way to cushion the hammer and keep it off the frame. But I ca cn't seem to find it now. Am I crazy, or is there such a thing?
I think this is the part of which you were speaking. I have used it for years.

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Discussion Starter · #37 · (Edited)
If you want to fit the part more than once then by all means, do it that way. But there’s no reason to do it that way.

I fit my thumb safeties so they go about 95% of the way up into the slide notch and then meet a little bit of sear resistance for the remaining 5%. This gives me a little bit of room (margin of error) in case I need to remove more safety lug material after refinishing but still gives you a positive click up without being mushy.

There is a device that hooks up to the frame so you can dry fire it without the slide. My question is, why even do it that way? There’s no reason to test for function with the slide off. This is a state the gun was not designed to function in so doing things with the slide off makes no sense. Know what I mean?
It makes complete sense to me, :D as I am a hobbyist that gets antsy when I need something to tinker with. I get real antsy when I plan things to come together at a given time based on what the supplier (Caspian in this case) says. Only to have them tell me that "we're sorry... we told you 10-12 weeks and at 14 weeks they say another 4 months.
Rant over.... In any case, these projects are for my own self indulgence. Being efficient in time management doesn't matter to me... I'm an old retired guy just trying to do-learn-enjoy. When I'm done with these builds I enjoy shooting my own work more than the $3K-$8k guns I have.
I do appreciate your input... You're very proficient at your trade. We just go at "smithing" for you, "smiffin" for me, from different perspectives.
When & if I do this again, I will certainly keep in mind what you have shared.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
I thought I would spend a little quality time with some files, stones & emery cloth today. ~ ~ After spending 30+ years around very precision machining it still amazes me how parts intended to interact with each other can be made by CNC machines and still be so mismatched. ~ ~ Especially when one side can be fairly close to start (first pic) and have the other side be at least twice as bad. (no pic, sorry) I was beginning to think that the difference from side to side would end up being very noticeable. I think I'll leave it where it is now until I get a better feel of the frame/MSH blending goes.

But then again..... if I wanted perfection, I could just get me a $16K JB Commander. :D

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No Main spring yet! Maybe?!?!
 
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