1911 Firearm Addicts banner
1 - 20 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
652 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have this one nearly together. With everything installed but the recoil spring, recoil spring plug, recoil spring guide, and grips, the pistol goes into battery.

But the last fraction of lockup is VERY tight and needs an extra bump to get all the way into battery. Getting it out of battery takes a deliberate yank on the slide to break it loose. The slide rides free on the frame otherwise.

I inked the end of the barrel hood, but don't see much there. Could that still be it - the hood is too tight to the breach face to allow the barrel to swing up smoothly?

Where do I need to be looking?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,580 Posts
DISCLAIMER - I KNOW NOTHING! but I bet you're a file stroke or two short on the upper engagement assuming the link is correct. Do you have at least .003 clearance on both sides of the barrel hood?

Please don't remove any metal based on anything I say and wait for someone with more knowledge to chime in.
 

·
Dremel jockey
Joined
·
5,504 Posts
Try it with no barrel link.
If results are the same, you likely need to remove a small amount of material from the floor of the first locking lug slot.
Use a marker to determine where.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
652 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Great help here, as usual.

I filed a little bit off the floor of the first top locking lug and the lockup going into battery is easier. It's still just snug, but not nearly as tight. I'm thinking I need to stop where I am and get it to the range for test firing.

Thanks for the tips!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
652 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Today I took this one to the range for its test firing (72° and sunny – it's why I live in GA!). Almost everything worked well.

It fed and ejected empty cases well. I had a friend of mine (a much better shooter than I) try it for precision – he easily held a 2" group freehand standing at 7 yds.

The only "problem" was that it won't eject unfired rounds. The cartridge hangs up in the ejection port and we're thinking the ejector is too long (I haven't mess with that yet). EGW calls their ejector oversized, so that's were I'll start looking.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
652 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
OOOFA!
Be VERY careful here.
You may want to look up the thread with a member needing surgery,
due to an outside of the chamber detonation.
Yes! I didn't like seeing it. I understand that if the extractor is too long, it can strike the primer when trying to eject - it would be all bad after that. All further inspection will be with dummy rounds.

Thanks for the added warning!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,135 Posts
After shortening the ejector, the pistol ejects dummy rounds reliably. I'm call it functional.
If you haven't already, you might google some of these guys in regards to their gun test methods for safe conditions.
After instituting this test developed by "Ken Hackathorn. Used by Bill Wilson and Larry Vickers. Hilton Yam picked it up from them, then Tim Lau wrote about it. (pick which name you call it)
Where as I watch for feed, auto fire, extraction/ejection functions, hopefully all without mishap.
 
  • Like
Reactions: ZoidMeister

·
Registered
Joined
·
652 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
If you haven't already, you might google some of these guys in regards to their gun test methods for safe conditions.
After instituting this test developed by "Ken Hackathorn. Used by Bill Wilson and Larry Vickers. Hilton Yam picked it up from them, then Tim Lau wrote about it. (pick which name you call it)
Where as I watch for feed, auto fire, extraction/ejection functions, hopefully all without mishap.
I had read several. My method was/is:
  1. Rack in a single round, eject the magazine, and fire checking for proper cycling, extraction, and no hammer follow. Do it again a few times.
  2. Load a single round in a magazine, insert it, rack, and fire checking for proper cycling, extraction, slide lock, and no hammer follow. Do it again a few times.
  3. Load a full magazine and shoot an 8 round group checking for proper cycle, feed, ejection, and slide lock. Do it again.
  4. Take the gun back to the shop and break it down looking for odd wear or damaged parts.
Did I miss anything key? Other than more rounds?
 
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top