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126 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My question relates to frequency of full take down of your 1911 after range trips. I read many do and many don't. Some say they run a bore snake through the barrel and lube? Lube where? I know that sounds simple but I can't find anything that tells me the procedure. I own two 1911's one which i use only CLP and the other which runs better with grease on the rails. If i'm going to take it out again in a short time and choose not to take it apart where do I lube? I'm sure this sounds simple to some of you but I am relatively new with 1911's. Note neither is a CCW or home defense weapon. After the range they go in the gun cabinet. Thanks for bearing with me.

8,923 Posts
welcome to the show

I like to break in my guns with super lube multi liquid.
if I am going to shoot a gun 2-3 sessions in a row and do not feel like field stripping, I use a long nosed oil bottle and put some lube into the rail grooves of the slide and on the tip of the barrel. That said I tend to lube my guns before I shoot them
when I field strip . I use a q tip and apply oil to the slide( rail slots, and the links for the barrel and the bottom of the slide(all friction areas). I then lube the rails on all sides(on the frame) including the ejector top and side.

I shoot 100 rounds and clean my guns. some like dirty guns. some like to test limits of how much they can get away with. I prefer my guns clean,lube and running as they should. a wet 1911 is a happy 1911

Every day is Saturday and every night's a party!
7,242 Posts
I'm actually kind of lax about cleaning. Proper lubrication is far more important than a sparkling clean gun, I might only clean whichever 1911 is currently getting used every few matches or range sessions. After a match I'll wipe the gun down and lube it with a couple drops of oil on the frame rails, on the front of the barrel hood where it meets the slide, around the muzzle where it contacts the barrel bushing, a drop on the disconnector rail and on top of the disconnector. I'll rack the slide a bunch of times to distribute the oil and function test it and that's it. If it's dry before a math, I'll add a little oil in the same spots. I'm not very particular about brands of lubricants anymore as long as it's quality stuff, I have a few different kinds around here, the other day I used Wilson's red colored stuff on the new/old Delta Elite I just got.

When I do clean a 1911 it's usually just field stripping, wiping everything clean, using some gun scrubber spray on stuff, running a bore snake though the barrel, lubing everything and reassembling it. Occasionally I'll remove the firing pin and extractor and clean out the tunnels. When I do this type of cleaning I'll lube the barrel lugs, and slide lugs, the slide stop pin, the barrel link, the barrel bushing inside and out, etc.. Like boatdoc, I use q-tips to apply oil and distribute it. And I'll wipe all the outside surfaces with an oily cloth and then a dry one.

Every now and again I'll detail strip one, usually when I buy a used gun and it's really cruddy. When I do that everything gets a good hosing with gun scrubber, all the hard to get to spots are picked and q-tipped clean, and everything gets a light coat of oil before being put back together.

Oh, and I seldom use grease on my 1911s, when I do it's the liquid stuff that Wilson sells.

32 Posts
Good topic for us "newbies" to the 1911. After lots of reading and research, I've found three sources for my Standard Manufacturing 1911.
This forum for starters, but it's hard for me to know who's opinion to trust. I also enjoyed reading Walt Kulek: M1911 Complete Owner's Guide. Lastly, GunBlue490 on you tube. He is a certified armored and is very direct in his opinions https://m.youtube.com/watch?t=0s&v=o8-MPsV2Wrg . Good luck with your 1911.

3,636 Posts
I use a lube called TriFlow. https://www.triflowlubricants.com/all-products/

After a complete tear down, I lube every moving part & wear areas with the
2oz bottle of TriFlow. A bore snake keeps the barrel surfaces from
corrosion after each firing. I use TriFlow on the snake for that as well.

Before my next range session or before I put her back in my holster
I add a few drops to where I can get to. It creeps in & loosens grit.

With the tube attached I add a drop or two to all areas I can get to. I
can see grit & grime weep out as the new oil seeps in. I see grease
as a dirt magnet that was more important in years past as oils would
not protect as well due to certain problems.

Today's Oils are nothing like oils of yesterday.
Synthetic Jet Science Oil technology has brought about great
changes in how Oil protects. Using Synthetic oil in everything
you have, has changed the way we look at oil.
Just think if you used a 5W30 in your 427CU Chevy Hauler :confused:
Howed that work at 110 degrees in July? Yet these 4 cyl tiny
dancers run around ticking & clinking down the road.

TriFlow has PTFE particles that coat & fill the low spots in metal
smooth surfaces create less heat & friction.

One last plug: :laugh: I took an accurized M1 Garand at Polk Co
Range in the hot part of July. I had used no Grease only TF
& shot a 80 shot NMC with sighters Match, the M1 ran super great
not a single malfunction. That M1 ran hot & needed no grease!

My .02 :happy: https://www.triflowlubricants.com/product/tri-flow-superior-lubricant-drip-bottle/

3,492 Posts
My regiment after a light range session or a short match is close to WC145:

Cleaning part
- wipe outside of the gun, lock the slide back
- run a boresnake through barrel 3-5 times
- wipe the breech face and barrel/frame ramp
- brush out the extractor clow

Lubrication part (I use a precision tip applicator bottle filled with FP10)
- lube barrel tip where it will contact the bushing
- small drop on disconnector
- flip the gun over and lube upper lugs in the slide
- lube rails (as far forward as tip can reach)
- rack a few times and wipe off any access

A good 1911 can run with this regiment for a looong time before it needs a field strip

3,636 Posts
I'm sure this sounds simple to some of you but I am relatively new with 1911's.
You need to read this thread. https://www.1911addicts.com/threads/what-lubes-suck.39541/

It's like watching grease dry :confused: was gonna say paint but U know.
It is about lubes all kinds of lubes. In the end you 2 will know
everything about lubes.

Ok you wanted to know about lubing your pistol without to
much take down. Well remove the mag & look at every angle
of the gun you can see.
Put a drop of oil at points where oil will be wicked or slid into areas
like the rails. Put a couple drops where it can seep between the
hammer areas & where it seeps between pins.

All in all you will get the right amount of lube into the critical areas
if you use oil by the drop not the slop on method :). Too much oil
is like if you use the old 16:1 ratio instead of today's 50:1 ratio
in any 2 cycle engine.

Oil is just Molecules made up of ball bearings all synthetic oil is, we
just make all the balls the same small size. Now we start to really
protect metal by getting between metal to metal with all
the ball bearings fitting into tighter places. Not odd size balls
getting into each others way.

Lubing a 1911 is easy it's easier than picking a lube. If it
seems to you after reading What lubes Suck that any
lube, other than dry is good, some are a unique color
some smell like Cherry cola. They all have 1 thing in
common. They help prevent metal to metal Contact
friction, heat & metal wear. What more could you ask.

How many 10/22 owners just pulled their dip stick out
& dropped some Motor oil on the dry action & bang!

One last bit of advice. Save your $ TF cost $4.50 for
2 ozs & Gun Fighter oil costs $13.50 for 4 ozs.

A friend gave me a bottle of Gun Fighter oil last fall
& I would not spend the money for it. TF does so
much more besides . How do you feel about using
$13.50 oil for general purpose use? I'll take TF @ $4.50
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