Dehorning/Refinishing. Am I crazy?

Discussion in '1911 Gunsmithing' started by RaginCajun, Jan 16, 2012.

  1. RaginCajun

    RaginCajun Got Guns, Got Freedom Supporting Addict

    108
    Oct 20, 2011
    I decided to take the plunge and dehorn my Springfield Standard Model. It is going pretty well, but I figured since I was removing finish and going to have to have it refinished anyway, I have begun to sand out all of the frame exterior machining marks. My Springer shows a lot of them in and around the trigger guard. Is this something a refinish shop would do before finishing or would the just apply finish over the marks? Sanding out these machining marks is taking a toll on my hands.:Cry: Any suggestions from anyone who has done this welcome.
     
    Last edited: Jan 16, 2012
  2. Sir Guy

    Sir Guy Sharpening Ockham's Razor Supporting Addict

    Aug 20, 2011
    The prep work is the big hurdle before getting a gun refinished, as you know. It's really the make-or-break part of the whole thing. For example, Turnbull's shop does a great bluing job, but the real work is in the preparation. :smilie:

    Andy
     

  3. RaginCajun

    RaginCajun Got Guns, Got Freedom Supporting Addict

    108
    Oct 20, 2011
    The prep is what I am alluding to, is it necessary that i sand out all of the external machining marks? Will sanding the frame 100% smooth noticeably affect an applied finish? I will then send the slide and frame to a shop for blasting of there preferred media for adherence.
     
  4. Sir Guy

    Sir Guy Sharpening Ockham's Razor Supporting Addict

    Aug 20, 2011
    I'm sure someone else will chime in, as I'm not one of the metal prep or finish guys on here. I'm a consumer only, but I have guns that are stainless, blued, Black-T, Melonite, etc. and have familiarized myself with the basics.

    Yeah, sanding a frame will affect how various finishes stick to the steel. If you're serious about getting a quality finish job, you're right, some shops do both the prep work and the finish itself.

    For what it's worth, and I keep using Turnbull's shop as an example because it's a good example of quality control, I read that they almost always have to do further prep work before finishing.

    Long story short, my bet is that if you sent your gun to a refinishing shop with the tool marks all over it, they'd probably opt to prep it properly before finishing it and charge accordingly.

    Looking forward to others chiming in.

    Andy
     
  5. KillStick

    KillStick Lovin Life

    279
    Aug 17, 2011
    Give Chirs Peters a look at Metaloy, he hard chromed my colt and I love it.
     
  6. Bender

    Bender Supporting Addict Supporting Addict

    Aug 15, 2011
    I'm doing this exact thing to a Springer Loaded. Knocking off the sharp edges,
    adding a very slight trigger guard under cut, removing a few machine marks,
    and replacing a few parts.

    Since mine is parked carbon steel, I believe it will need blasted & reparked if
    I decide to have it CeraKoated
     
  7. AlchemyCustomWeaponry

    AlchemyCustomWeaponry Crabby Old Gunsmith

    Nov 4, 2011
    Anytime we do a finish job for someone here, I go over the trigger guard, and hand shape and polish the scallops for them free of charge. I don't see any reason that someone should pay for a refinish and not get a world class prep job beforehand. That's like putting lipstick on a pig.
     
    pnevans and william adams like this.
  8. Bender

    Bender Supporting Addict Supporting Addict

    Aug 15, 2011
    Now that's first class service!
    I'll be looking at getting mine refinished down the road.
     
  9. RaginCajun

    RaginCajun Got Guns, Got Freedom Supporting Addict

    108
    Oct 20, 2011
    Here are a couple photos of my progress, honest feedback and criticism welcome. I know the pics are large, but camera sucks and the Devils in the details.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  10. TexShooter

    TexShooter Member

    202
    Aug 19, 2011
    Looks good so far! Can you take another picture (not so close up) of your undercut on the front strap? It's a bit hard to make out the shape.
     
  11. RaginCajun

    RaginCajun Got Guns, Got Freedom Supporting Addict

    108
    Oct 20, 2011
    I haven't modified the undercut, it's stock. Still worried about my filing/sanding skills. Here is a better pic as it sits though. The factory lines aren;t straight and bother me, don't know how aggressive I want to get.
    [​IMG]
     
  12. Bender

    Bender Supporting Addict Supporting Addict

    Aug 15, 2011
    Lookin good,.......:thumb:
     
  13. RaginCajun

    RaginCajun Got Guns, Got Freedom Supporting Addict

    108
    Oct 20, 2011
    Decided to blend the extractor to the rear of the frame
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  14. knedrgr

    knedrgr Low capacity, low tech...

    Aug 15, 2011
    Nice. Is your FPS loose to get off the slide?
     
  15. RaginCajun

    RaginCajun Got Guns, Got Freedom Supporting Addict

    108
    Oct 20, 2011
    It's not super tight, but haven't had any problems with clocking.
    Here's the finish product after blending
    [​IMG]
     
  16. knedrgr

    knedrgr Low capacity, low tech...

    Aug 15, 2011
    I'm a huge believer in EGW's FPS. A cheap insurance to many potential problems.

    Nice blending.
     
  17. RaginCajun

    RaginCajun Got Guns, Got Freedom Supporting Addict

    108
    Oct 20, 2011
    Think I'm about done with the files and paper.:hail: Here's the attempt at beveling an EGW thick bushing. May have to try to angle it a little more, EGW parts are hard as hell.

    [​IMG]

    and the finished product ready for sight milling, degrease, sandblasting, and finish.
    [​IMG]

    Haven't decided if I want to attempt the round butt or not.
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2012
  18. CIGARMAN454

    CIGARMAN454 Member

    61
    Feb 7, 2012
  19. Drgracin72

    Drgracin72 Supporting Addict Supporting Addict

    Oct 9, 2011
    looking good... after tomorrow, ill have my own GI to start a thread about!
     
  20. Josh Denny

    Josh Denny New Member

    16
    Jul 12, 2013
    I would imagine that most shops will take out heavy marks and scratches prior to bluing or whatever finish you choose to have. If they are excessive I would expect them to charge extra for it. If you do your own prep and ask the shop to just blue or finish over your prep work you are going to get as good of a job as you did the prep.

    Finishes such as hot bluing, hard chrome, Ion Bond and some others will show your prep in the finished product directly. By that I mean if you go with high polish the finish will mirror that, aluminum oxide blasted will be matte, glass bead blasting will yield more of a satin, etc. Rust bluing will typically only get to satin finish, not high polished because the solution will acid etch the metal and only allow so much polish. Parkerizing is typically always a matte finish. Your various spray & bake finishes depend on your prep work to get rid of heavy marks/scratches but the surface usually requires a matte (aluminum oxide media) blast for good adherence. The spray finishes despite what some believe do not go on thick enough to cover heavy imperfections or scratches. Properly applied they are about a mil thick.
     

You need 3 posts to add links to your posts! This is used to prevent spam.

Verification:
Draft saved Draft deleted