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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i was in shop today looking at a DW PMC. Owner came over when he saw I was going to drop slide ( on empty chamber of course) Asked for the gun , took magazine out and gently closed slide . Said " you can do that once it's your gun "
I've seen articles & videos on both sides of this issue I wasn't really put off by his comment although he could have used it as a teaching moment , and explained the why.

Any thoughts about this are welcome . How much damage would this do to internals ?
 

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i was in shop today looking at a DW PMC. Owner came over when he saw I was going to drop slide ( on empty chamber of course) Asked for the gun , took magazine out and gently closed slide . Said " you can do that once it's your gun "
I've seen articles & videos on both sides of this issue I wasn't really put off by his comment although he could have used it as a teaching moment , and explained the why.

Any thoughts about this are welcome . How much damage would this do to internals ?
Supposedly doing it a lot will damage the quality of the trigger pull. I didn’t catch why... but that was the result.

So it matters less on a cheap 1911, and is a big deal on expensive ones.
 

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Fictional Western Sage
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1. Don't drop the slide on a gun that doesn't belong to you

2. Dropping the slide can belch up the hammer/sear interface

3. What did the videos/articles that you have previously seen/read say?

4. Did you learn anything from the videos/articles you saw/read?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
One of the videos that bill Wilson has discussed this and they said the finer the gun the more it matters .
I get it and no complaints about the warning . Wondering why other shops have not mentioned this
I try to use all controls just to make sure of their feel . I'm actually glad he pointed this out

I know lots of shooters will drop slide on a reload but the chamfering if a round acts as a buffer
So it's totally different to wear and tear
 

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I'm done buying guns, I'm just a bystander now
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The WCR posted this years ago on TOOS

The only time damage can occur to the hammer/sear engagement is if the hammer actually falls to half cock on the sear nose. Even then it would typically have to happen several times to cause a problem.

I do not condone dropping the slide on an empty chamber. Doing it repeatedly over and over will certainly put undue wear and stress on your slide/barrel fit...but an occasional slide drop won't hurt your gun.


If it hurts your gun who really knows, just don't do it on a gun you don't own, period.
 

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Fictional Western Sage
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One of the videos that bill Wilson has discussed this and they said the finer the gun the more it matters .
I get it and no complaints about the warning . Wondering why other shops have not mentioned this
I try to use all controls just to make sure of their feel . I'm actually glad he pointed this out

I know lots of shooters will drop slide on a reload but the chamfering if a round acts as a buffer
So it's totally different to wear and tear
Interesting. I always drop the slide when chambering a round
 

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The Tinker
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I know lots of shooters will drop slide on a reload but the chamfering if a round acts as a buffer
So it's totally different to wear and tear
You got it. The pistol is designed to strip and chamber a round when the slide is going forward. It isn't designed to have the barrel's lower lugs slam into the slide stop pin at full speed, i.e. on an empty chamber.
 

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Nose to the grindstone
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Like the man said...
you can do that once it's your gun "
I've had a couple folks do that to my guns that weren't even 1911's and it still left a bad taste in my mouth towards that person, one who won't be laying hands on my weapons again anytime soon after he did it three times in a row to a brand new gun I hadn't even shot yet.
 

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The Tinker
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How do all of you guys test for hammer follow after cleaning your guns? I thought the best test is to release the slide on an empty chamber...
Unless I alter/change sear or hammer spring tensions, or mess with the sear and hammer geometry there is no need. Or at least I've never found a need.

Also, I'm pretty good at just testing the trigger by dry firing with a snap cap. I can usually tell if a trigger is on the 'ragged edge' of stability so to speak. I don't know how to explain it, but I can feel it.
 

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THE DOCTOR WILL SEE YOU......LATER
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Unless I alter/change sear or hammer spring tensions, or mess with the sear and hammer geometry there is no need. Or at least I've never found a need.

Also, I'm pretty good at just testing the trigger by dry firing with a snap cap. I can usually tell if a trigger is on the 'ragged edge' of stability so to speak. I don't know how to explain it, but I can feel it.
Like a guitarist.....the "tone is in the fingers".
 
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