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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I figured I should probably start a pic thread so here goes.
Frame, trigger guard, MSH checkered, MSH blended, magwell machined, barrel fit, ignition kit installed, safeties fit and blended, ejector, FPS and extractor fit and blended. The gun is basically a functioning firearm and I just have all the slide work
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CNC cut wrap around magwell bevel, the MSH is filed flush to the bottom of the frame under hammer tension. This little detail grinds my gears when It’s not flush.
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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
A look into my checkering process. This method has served me well for a year but I think I need to switch the cutter up to a 3/4 saw. More teeth, thicker mandrel and that should get me an even cleaner cut. I used to do the lines 10 at a time with specialty cutter but have switched to single point, 1 at a time every 30-40 seconds. Unfortunately I have to use such a long tool for clearance so using a thicker mandrel will help get rid of that chatter you’re hearing.

Typical results
 

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A look into my checkering process. This method has served me well for a year but I think I see to switch the cutter up to a 3/4 saw. More teeth, thicker mandrel and that should get me an even cleaner cut. I used to do the lines 10 at a time with specialty cutter but have switched to single point, 1 at a time every 30-40 seconds. Unfortunately I have to use such a long tool for clearance so using a thicker mandrel will help get rid of that chatter you’re hearing.

Typical results
You'll definitely appreciate the saw.. Works great !
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You'll definitely appreciate the saw.. Works great !
I used a saw at CCS and my CNC program is based off the one I used every week. I just use these long thin cutters because they’re easy for me to have made. All I’ll have to do when I get some saws is tell the program the cutter is bigger and it will adjust the difference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Real bad pic but here’s a Delta Railgun in for some mods. The new Kart barrel was really working for me at the range. We slapped the rest of it together real quick to test for function and accuracy before we did the rest of the work and we were hitting steel at 75 yards with it. I couldn’t miss.

This one will be gray DLC with a black trigger, hammer and barrel. I can’t wait to get this one finished.
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Starting some slide work. The slide is indicated.
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The ball cut is measured .225 deep from the slide rail.
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the bulk of the material is cut off and left short from the dust cover.
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Then we take material off until we get some contact with the spring tunnel
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Now we put the frame on and match the ball cut to the dust cover
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From here we go just a thou deeper for a clean up cut. This can leave a little hump like you see here but it Is just filed out to meet the cut.
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
These are 22 degrees, .025 deep and .063 spacing. I have no idea what’s right or “Colt” but they’re close enough. .065 spacing is probably closer to Colt spec and I’ll probably try that on the next one. The first rearward serration is .675 from the back

The endmill size doesn’t matter as long as it’s sharp. This was a 1/4 but you could use a 3/8 or 1/2. Or whatever. I wouldn’t go below a 1/4 though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Yup. If you cut it all the way back before it’s at full cut you run the risk of overcutting it.

What I should do is only line up one side so the Wilson guys can feel at home in one pic but the rest of the people can turn it over and see it done correctly. 🤣🤣

Everybody wins.
 
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