Field and detail stripping/reassembly take two.

Discussion in 'Beginner's Corner' started by Chris, Mar 8, 2012.

  1. Chris

    Chris YOU ****!!!! Supporting Addict

    Aug 17, 2011
    Awhile back, I posted the 10-8 link when this joint first started out. It is a good reference, but they have not had pictures up for quite some time. I am a visual learner, so I decided that I am going to try to fill the void and try to explain what I am doing and show pictures at the same time. With that said, I am no expert at all. This is just the way I do it. It is similar to the 10-8 guide (with the exception of field stripping). As the old saying goes, there is more than one way to skin a cat… If you want to talk about/show your way of doing it, please do so. If I can learn something from this thread, even better. For what it is worth, I did not break down the MSH. If someone wants to show pictures of that, feel free to do so.

    I hope this thread turns out to be helpful for anyone who wants to try it for the first time. Please give me time to get it finished as it will be a work in progress. I thought I had everthing documented as I hoped, but I will to have tear down again to get some better pictures and give a better explanation on some things. Maybe the next time I tear it down in the next day or so I will actually clean the damn thing. :der:

    Here is the starting point. 9mm DW Guardian.

    Oh yeah, the 10-8 guide... http://www.10-8performance.com/pages/1911-User's-Guide.html

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    Last edited: Mar 8, 2012
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  2. Chris

    Chris YOU ****!!!! Supporting Addict

    Aug 17, 2011
    Field Stripping

    As always, ensure the weapon is unloaded before starting. Sorry, no pictures for that… :lol:

    I first learned how to do this from the Colt instruction manual from my first 1911, so I always start by depressing the plug and rotate the bushing so it can be removed. It is under tension, so use care to avoid sending the plug across the room or to a worse location that can cause damage to one’s self or property.

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    Once the plug is removed, I line up the SS with the notch in the slide and remove it. Nothing new to see here.

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    Now that the SS is removed, remove the slide from the frame. Again, nothing new here for 1911 owners.

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    Next, I remove the recoil spring from the rear and separate it from the guide rod. Then, I move the barrel forward as in the 10-8 guide and remove the bushing.

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    With that done, it is time to remove the barrel. Make sure the link is forward as in the picture above. With that now complete, the 1911 is now field stripped in the various parts below. For regular maintenance, this is as far as you need to go. However, if you do want to go further continue on to the next post.

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    Last edited: Mar 8, 2012
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  3. Chris

    Chris YOU ****!!!! Supporting Addict

    Aug 17, 2011
    Detail strip the slide

    Pretty easy to do actually.

    With a punch, depress the firing pin so the firing pin stop can start to be removed. Once the pin is covered by the top of the stop, I place my left hand over the rear of the slide to keep the firing pin from flying out as I remove the stop with my right hand.

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    Firing pin, spring, and stop removed.

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    Next up is the extractor. As stated in the 10-8 guide, I use a small punch to start to remove the extractor. Of course, the hook on mine was catching on the breech, so I used a small dowel using the same technique described in the 10-8 guide to remove it.

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    With the extractor now free, the slide is stripped.

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    Last edited: Mar 10, 2012
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  4. knedrgr

    knedrgr Low capacity, low tech...

    Aug 15, 2011
    and then... :lol:
     
  5. Blue Ridge

    Blue Ridge Well-Known Member

    Nov 3, 2011
    Throw in box, call gun smith!
     
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  6. Chris

    Chris YOU ****!!!! Supporting Addict

    Aug 17, 2011

    Jerk... :pound:

    [video=youtube_share;n7zfnbdyAW8]http://youtu.be/n7zfnbdyAW8[/video]
     
  7. knedrgr

    knedrgr Low capacity, low tech...

    Aug 15, 2011
    :rofl: ok we'll let you finish the thread in peace.

    Looks great BTW.
     
  8. Chris

    Chris YOU ****!!!! Supporting Addict

    Aug 17, 2011
    Thanks. I will work to complete the thread over the weekend.
     
  9. Sir Guy

    Sir Guy Sharpening Ockham's Razor Supporting Addict

    Aug 20, 2011
    Nice photos! Looking forward to seeing more. :thumb:

    Andy
     
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2012
  10. dgi

    dgi NRA Life Member

    Sep 10, 2011
    Great idea!!!! a video would be more help :peep:
     
  11. Chris

    Chris YOU ****!!!! Supporting Addict

    Aug 17, 2011
    Detail strip the frame

    To start out, remove the grips from the frame. With the hammer cocked, the thumb safety can now be removed (mine is not an ambi). Wiggle up and down on the safety while pulling outwards away from the frame. Do take care to avoid the detents and spring in the plunger tube from flying out. Ask me how I know... :der:

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    With that done, manually decock the hammer. The MSH pin can now be removed with a punch or other appropriate tool. With that out of the way, slide out the MSH, pull out the GS and remove the sear spring.

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    Next up is to remove the hammer/pin. If this is the first time doing this (especially if you have that series 80 stuff) take a good look inside (hell, take a picture or two :lol:) before removing the sear pin. Here's a pic without the series 80 stuff.

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    Now remove the sear pin, sear, and disconnector. With that out of the way, we are almost done. Next up is to remove the mag release and trigger. Start by depressing the mag release. With a small screwdriver, turn the lock to to release it from the frame. If I need to elaborate further... lefty loosy, righty tighty. :lol: Just kidding! Remove the mag release from the right side of the frame and slide out the trigger from the rear of the frame.

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    With the mag release and trigger removed, we now have a nice collection of parts sitting around.

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    Most people would go through a good cleaning/inspection at this point, but my dumbass just put it back together again. :der: As many here know, stripping down and reassembling a 1911 is not difficult. After all, I am not the sharpest tool in the shed. If I can take it apart and put it back together, anyone can. If anyone wants to try it, and run into problems, there are plenty of people to offer you help if needed. I will post some more over the weekend to show how I put this pile of parts back together into a working gun.
     
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2012
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  12. knedrgr

    knedrgr Low capacity, low tech...

    Aug 15, 2011
    Good job Chris!

    Here are a few tips or a slight different route:
    1) if you don't have access to a bushing wrench, you can strip the slide off by removing the slide stop. Then have a firm grip on the slide, with your thumb covering the dust cover, as you slide off the slide. Use your thumb to catch the spring guide by puttin pressure on it, against the barrel. Remove the recoil spring assembly. Then you can take the barrel out of battery, them remove the barrel bushing.

    2) if you don't have a punch for the MSH pin, then you can use the hammer strut to push it out of the frame.

    3) hammer strut can also be use to push in the FP to remove the FPS.
     
  13. Chris

    Chris YOU ****!!!! Supporting Addict

    Aug 17, 2011
    Reassemble the slide

    Pretty simple and just the reverse of stripping. Start by installing the extractor. Next, insert the firing pin/spring. Just like removal, the firing pin/spring will need to be depressed to install the firing pin stop. I use a punch to do this this as I slide the stop into position. I wish I had a third hand to show it better and get a good picture, but it is pretty straight forward.

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    I usually stop here and move on to the frame. However, you can also install the barrel, bushing, and spring/guide rod at this point as well.
     
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  14. Chris

    Chris YOU ****!!!! Supporting Addict

    Aug 17, 2011
    Reassemble the frame

    Just like the slide, pretty much put it back together the reverse of how it way taken apart. Start by installing the trigger/bow from the rear of the frame. With that in place, install the magazine release from the right side of the frame. Just like disassembly, depress the mag release so you can turn the lock with a screwdriver to the right (clockwise) to engage the frame.

    Next, install the disconnector, sear, and sear pin.

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    Next up is the hammer and pin. Install the hammer in the decocked position with the strut out of the way and insert the hammer pin. With that done, it is time to install the sear spring. Make sure the bottom of the spring is fitted into the notch in the frame (covered by the MSH when installed) with the left finger on top of the sear.

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    With the sear spring in place, move the strut back down and install the MSH about half way.

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    Next, I install the grip safety and make sure that the strut is lined up inside the grip safety.

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    If everything is right, the MSH and pin can be installed with little effort. With that done, I cock the hammer and re-install the detents/spring into the plunger tube.

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    With a small screwdriver, I then depress the detents/spring in the plunger tube so I can install the thumb safety.

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    Last edited: Mar 11, 2012
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  15. Chris

    Chris YOU ****!!!! Supporting Addict

    Aug 17, 2011
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    With the thumb safety in place. I usually put the grips back on. With that done, this 1911 is field stripped again.

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    Reassemble like you normally would from this point, function check it, and have fun shooting!

    Like I said in the first post, this just how I do it, and it is the not the only way to complete the same objective. I hope new users to the 1911 can find this thread useful. If there is anything I can better explain or show in a picture, just ask.
     
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2012
    19DRS83 and Joseph Krezdorn III like this.
  16. knedrgr

    knedrgr Low capacity, low tech...

    Aug 15, 2011
    Nice post. Sticky for easy reference.
     
  17. djackson

    djackson Member

    132
    Aug 18, 2011
    very nice write up
     
  18. Chris

    Chris YOU ****!!!! Supporting Addict

    Aug 17, 2011
    Cool. Glad I can actually contribute something productive instead of my usual smartass comments.

    Thanks for the compliment.
     
  19. Chris

    Chris YOU ****!!!! Supporting Addict

    Aug 17, 2011
    Series 80 slide disassembly

    On the Series 80 slide, there are some differences to a slide without the firing pin safety. Most noticeable is the firing pin plunger.

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    Disassembly is a bit different but still pretty easy. Start by depressing the plunger and use a punch to depress the firing pin/spring. With the firing pin/spring depressed, release the plunger. If done right, this will allow for easy removal of the firing pin stop.

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    I next block the real of the slide with my right hand and depress/hold the plunger in with my left index finger. The firing pin/spring can now be removed from the slide. Next up is to remove the plunger and spring. Start by slowly removing the extractor. Slight movement to the rear of the slide should free the plunger.

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    Remove the plunger, spring, and extractor. The slide is now stripped like before with some new additions to the parts list.

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    Last edited: Mar 11, 2012
  20. Chris

    Chris YOU ****!!!! Supporting Addict

    Aug 17, 2011
    Series 80 slide assembly

    Work in reverse like before. The extractor will need to installed first, but first note how there is a cutout for the plunger. Do not insert it all of the way!

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    Allign the cutout in the extractor with the slide so the plunger/spring can be installed.

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    Depress the plunger and push the extractor forward from the rear of the slide. To install the firing pin, again depress and hold the plunger. Install the firing pin/spring and depress with a punch or other tool. With the pin/spring depressed, release the plunger. The firing pin stop can now be installed.

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    Once the stop is in place, push on the plunger. The slide is now complete.

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    Last edited: Mar 11, 2012

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