[soverystout]

I have a STI Nitro 10 2011. Love the 10MM round. During the stay at home orders I have cleaned everything, except the Nitro 10 slide.

I cannot get the firing pin stop to budge. it feels like it's "fused" to the rest of the slide. I have the correct size punches and have tried and tried but I have had no luck.

Any suggestions? I have 9 other STI 1911s and the firing pins came out with no issue.

 

[7.62Kolectr]

Are you sure it’s not cockeyed in the slot?
Maybe the extractor itself is turned somehow and preventing movement?
Can you slip a small screwdriver in from the top, twist and push it down and out?

 

[soverystout]

Hmmm. I didn't consider the stop possibly cockeyed in the slot as the stop has never been removed by me. I bought it new but haven't shot it more than 500 rounds.

I did go at it a bit from the top without any luck. Sprayed some PB blaster in and around the area but the damn thing won't budge.

 

[mikegalway]

Have you tried applying some Kroil , let it sit over night and try again ? Next , I'd try a little heat to the slide , not a lot , something like a hair dryer .

 

[soverystout]

Have you tried applying some Kroil , let it sit over night and try again ? Next , I'd try a little heat to the slide , not a lot , something like a hair dryer .

I was thinking about the hair dryer route. Something to try. Thanks

 

[july19]

Have you tried applying some Kroil , let it sit over night and try again ? Next , I'd try a little heat to the slide , not a lot , something like a hair dryer .

Yep^^^^^Kroil is your friend.

 

[switchback]

I had one so tight on a stainless Colt combat commander , yes a Colt, I had to "catch" the firing pin, series 80, and with a punch tap fps down and eventually off slide. I reduced a bit and reinstalled.

 

[Moad]

Never had one as tight as what you have described but the suggestions above regarding clocking make sense. This it a handy tool I have always used:

https://www.egwguns.com/1911-firing-pin-stop-plate-tool

 

[Capthobo]

PB Blaster is better penetrant than Kroil for this. Soak it in PB Blaster overnight. Check that the extractor isn’t clocked and binding the stop. Then attempt the removal again with a little heat.
Best of luck!

 

[Capthobo]

I would also heat the slide prior to letting it sit in PB Blaster overnight. This helps the penetrant process.

 

[Riflecrank]

Before you apply heat to it, if you have a non marring plastic or rawhide hammer, use a non marring punch or piece of hardwood if you have it an give the face of the stop (not the top) a good rap and see if that snaps it loose. I’ve done this with bound items before and freed them. I’d recommend you anchor it with padding in a vise first. The idea is to send a resonating shock through it without marking it. Classic example of binding where this method works are the lock rings on reloading dies. If that doesn’t work, what the others said.

 

[fieldgrade]

Never had one as tight as what you have described but the suggestions above regarding clocking make sense. This it a handy tool I have always used:

https://www.egwguns.com/1911-firing-pin-stop-plate-tool

Handy tool here. I have one. It was the only way to get the FPS out of a new DW.

 

[fieldgrade]

SDM Fabricating makes a firing pin stop removal tool like the EGW as well. That’s the one I have.
http://www.sdmfabricating.com/Tools/tools.htm

 

[Moad]

SDM Fabricating makes a firing pin stop removal tool like the EGW as well. That’s the one I have.
http://www.sdmfabricating.com/Tools/tools.htm

My EGW has SDM stamped on it.....LOL

 

[ams]

I had one that was really tight. I used a small screwdriver to push and hold the firing pin in then hammer it down with another. When it finally moved a little, I twisted the screwdriver then pulled it out. Then I levered the firing pin down. I ran it over a file before I put it back in.