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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yes, the novice is wanting to pick a few brains. I have 4 1911's, the high end is my TRP, a couple of Springfield RO's and a Ruger SR1911. All of them have clocking issues with the extractor. The oversize firing pin stops correct this, and I just finished the first one on my RO Compact. The plan is to install them on all of the pistols. This project was intended to stop the clocking issue and help maintain reliability.
Read what I could find on the smaller radiused firing pin stops, and have mine filed and stoned to a radius slightly larger than 1/32". I then inked it and made sure I had 100% contact across the hammer. Do any of you run a specific radius, or is anything you do close enough? Would like some definitive answers as I can't be sure some of what I read on the internet is good info. Trying to find a good balance between reliability, and a smooth shooting pistol.
My next question is this. Because the slide is now slowed down in its cycle, do you also change out the recoil spring to a reduced power one?
Trying to increase my knowledge base, and anything you long time 1911 shooters can do to help is always appreciated. Thanks in advance!!!!
 

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I run the EGW stop in all of my 1911s except my 9mm combat operator. I leave it flat, and use a 16 RS/23 MS for standard loads. I haven't tried a lighter recoil spring but I'm sure for softer loads a 14# would function just fine.
 

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I assume by "clocking" you mean the extractor is turning in it's housing due to the firing pin stop not holding it in it's place properly?

I'll show my green horn shoes by not knowing about this until today. Is it a common problem for a firing pin stop to break and wear enough for there to be excessive play?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
No. Most generally, the firing pin stops are made slightly undersize to fit production guns. The EGW FPS I fit to my Compact is .007 wider than the one that came in the pistol. The extractor can now no longer clock.
 

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I'm no expert but I use just the small radius and standard weight springs. EGW and Harrison stop now come with a small radius.


I assume by "clocking" you mean the extractor is turning in it's housing due to the firing pin stop not holding it in it's place properly?

I'll show my green horn shoes by not knowing about this until today. Is it a common problem for a firing pin stop to break and wear enough for there to be excessive play?
The tighter fit of an aftermarket stop to an extractor is what prevents the rotation or clocking on the extractor not worn parts. More like improperly fit or drop in parts.
 

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In Kentucky
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I have a nighthawk firing pin stop. 17 lb Wilson flat wire and 20 lb mainspring
 

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In Kentucky
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I have a nighthawk firing pin stop. 17 lb Wilson flat wire and 20 lb mainspring
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Curious as to what the high end customs run for FPS's. The radius as well. The high end pistols are always rated for running smoother. I wonder if this is due in part to a small radius FPS.
 

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Sir Kip Esquire
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Check 1911tuner.
He's a crusty ol dog but has some good info.
Had written a piece on the reduced radius FPS,and explains how to works with variables (spring weights,...)
If nothing else it's a good read!!
 

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Just for nostalgia: the 1911 which started it all had a factory flat bottom firing pin stop. The Army later asked that the fps be given a radius to ease manipulation of the slide.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks for the pictures. Philip A. Like to see how it was done in the old days.
I shot the TRP and Compact both with the new small radius FPS. There definitely is a difference in how it "feels" when shooting. Smooth is the best description I could come up with. Thanks for your comments to all who participated.
 

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Double Secret Banned
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I've installed both the EGW and Harrison oversized FPS. Both work but the Harrisons seemed to be a slicker installation.

The EGW went into a Springfield, the 4 Harrisons all went into Colts. (maybe SA slides are a little weird back there)
 

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Double Secret Banned
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I assume by "clocking" you mean the extractor is turning in it's housing due to the firing pin stop not holding it in it's place properly?

I'll show my green horn shoes by not knowing about this until today. Is it a common problem for a firing pin stop to break and wear enough for there to be excessive play?
Firing Pin Stops and Slide Stops are some of the parts most likely to fail after a lot of use on a 1911. Having spares already fitted up is a good idea, but when I have spares the primary parts seem to last forever :eek:.o:
 
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