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Hi,
I know everyone is going to tell me to get a manual and I plan on doing it, but which one?

I am getting a Rock Chucker Supeme Master ReLoading Kit and will be relaoding 45 ACP. I have been reading on the internet that Bullseye and WIN 231 are the go to powders. I like to take my time, so I will be using a RCBS Hand trickler measuring the powder on the scale instead of using the powder measure.
I have a few questions I would like to nail down.
  1. I would like a soft recoil, accurate load that is easy on my Aluminum frame Colt Commander.
  2. When I used factory rounds I felt the Remington 230 FMJ, S&B 230 FMJ and Speer 200 gr FMJ were more accurate than ASYM 185Gr HP. Hornday 185gr XTP didn't shoot well.
  3. I am interested in loading the 200 FMJ and 230 FMJ, I am assuming to an OAL of 1.250 and a crimp of .470.
  4. I would like to load 200GR SWC, but the federal 200 GR SWC that I tested, didn't feed properly and the BLack Hills 200 SWC fed most of the time, but didn't seem accurate as the Speer 200 gr FMJ.
  5. I am looking at purchasing CCI Large Primers,Berry's Superior Plated Bullet, Plated Hollow Base Flat Point and Speer 230GR FMJ Copper Plated Bullets

Any recommendations on load data, I am not holding you accountable if I screw up on a load.
 

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Boy those questions open a can of worms! Depending on the bullet and the gun, you may need to taylor your load. I loaded 4.1 gr of bullseye over a Speer 200gr SWC at just under the max OAL. Tried the same with 200 gr Blue bullets and failed miserably. Had to seat the shoulder down to the brass over 4.3 gr of bullseye.
I would start at a low powder charge of 4.0 Bullseye and near max OAL. See if the round functions and make adjustments. If you see a three point Failure to feed, shorten the OAl a bit. If you see stove pipes, add a little powder.
With reloading it's as much about the journey, as the destination. Have fun and be safe.
 
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I have been loading .45 with Winchester WSF for years. The recoil is milder than Winchester white box ammo and I use 200 gr. Berry's bullets.
I know my advise goes against the grain of most but I started reloading pistol ammo in a Dillon SDB progressive press and have had no problems. Read the instructions before you start and things will fall into place easily. Dillon customer service is the best and their warranty is next to none.
 

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Plated bullets can be temperamental if not crimped correctly.
you may want to start with JACKETED
Look at the prices of RMR , Everglades and Precision Delta.
I find them to be "sometimes" cheaper than plated and less trouble to get to shoot accurately, especially over 20 yds.
Softer powders are Clays, Clay Dot and e3. those are powders guys competing often use because we feel that they have a softer feel to them and thus faster 2nd shoots etc. at major powder factor.
 
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Reloading manuals, I have several. The Lee one probably has the most different types of loads in it. But it is good to look up the load in a couple of different places in case of a misprint, just to make sure. Most of the powder manufactures have load data online.

Down load a couple power burn rate charts. In general, the faster powders will feel softer, but they are not as forgiving if mistakes are made. 231 - HP38 is good powder.

45's are pretty easy to load for using a variety of powers and primer brands,don't get hung up on only one brand of powder or primer.

On 45's you do not want to "crimp" the case and crush the bullet. The proper way is to just take the bell out, the side of the case should be straight not belled out or pushed in.

Start off reloading in small batches the test firing them.

Most of all, enjoy what you do.
 

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Good advise so far. I will just add; Use your pistols barrel or a case gauge.
If your rounds can pass a "plunk test" they will generally feed.
I would suggest a Lyman "M" die in the expanding stage.
You may want to look at the coated lead bullets from places like Bayou, Acme, SNS etc.
Good luck to you!
 

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I am a wad cutter fan... 5.5 gr. Unique under a 200gr. swc. I've loaded thousands through a Dillon SDB.
The cost savings seems to be minimal as the factory ammo "shortage" left with Obama.
i currently shoot a lot of 9mm factory at $0.167 /rd. a price point I can live with.
I own 4 reloading machine sets for shot,rifle,pistol and components to provide ammo for a life time....mine anyways.
I bought factory 2000 .45acp recently off armslist for $0.24....a reasonable cost
Time is money
 

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Asking reloading questions especially regarding 45ACP is like asking "how long is a piece of string"!

Get several reloading manuals and the bullet manufacturers data. IE. Berry's!

As long as you understand that these manuals are a GUIDE and not absolute you will be OK. Remember to follow reloading manuals exactly until you become very experienced and are grounded I your understanding in how changing any component and or technique can make a large or catastrophic result, KABOOM!

Smiles,
 
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My Les Baer is spectacular with a Zero 185 JHP and 4.0g of Bullseye. They are slightly more accurate than a 200 LSWC with the same powder/charge. All guns have preferences though.
Good luck!
Forgot to add, the One Book/One Caliber manuals are cheap and pretty awesome.
 

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Hi,
I know everyone is going to tell me to get a manual and I plan on doing it, but which one?

I am getting a Rock Chucker Supeme Master ReLoading Kit and will be relaoding 45 ACP. I have been reading on the internet that Bullseye and WIN 231...those are fine, as are WST and VVN310 for low recoil, accurate loads; see below... are the go to powders. I like to take my time, so I will be using a RCBS Hand trickler measuring the powder on the scale instead of using the powder measure. That will get old in a hurry. Maybe better to use your scale to verify your drop weight from the measure. Drop 10 loads and average them. Make an adjustment, drop 3, return to the reservoir, drop 10 and average them. That way, you won't get hung up on the fact that each drop may vary by +/- 0.1 grains ...some variability is to be expected and is OK.
I have a few questions I would like to nail down.
  1. I would like a soft recoil, accurate load that is easy on my Aluminum frame Colt Commander. Soft and accurate...that's what the bullseye shooters use to win the Camp Perry matches at 25 and 50 yds. The winners shoot a 185HP @ 750-850 fps ...very mild. Use your power factor as a guide to recoil. A 185 - 200gr @ 750-850fps will range from 140- 170 power factor.
  2. When I used factory rounds I felt the Remington 230 FMJ, S&B 230 FMJ and Speer 200 gr FMJ were more accurate than ASYM 185Gr HP. Hornday 185gr XTP didn't shoot well. to Those are 5 unique loadings specific to you gun and will not be generic. That is, don't be hasty to conclude the 185XTP is not accurate in your gun ... it most likely can be. The beauty of reloading is the almost infinite number of combinations.
  3. I am interested in loading the 200 FMJ and 230 FMJ, I am assuming to an OAL of 1.250... That's a reasonable start. Longer is often better. The "longest" is determined by 1) a plunk test in your barrel ... the OAL MUST be short enuff to allow easy chambering in YOUR chamber... and 2) what works in your magazine. Even if a max OAL of 1.2xx plunks in your chamber, it may be too long to fit in your mag. ...and a crimp of .470. Again, a reasonable start. But 0.473 is SAAMI max. Striving unnecessarily for a small diameter can be problematic.
  4. I would like to load 200GR SWC, but the federal 200 GR SWC that I tested, didn't feed properly and the BLack Hills 200 SWC fed most of the time, but didn't seem accurate as the Speer 200 gr FMJ. Again, no doubt true, but specific loads out of dozens of possibilities. How much effort you put into it will depend on your personal desire to make a certain bullet work for a certain purpose... the fun of handloading.
  5. I am looking at purchasing CCI Large Primers,Berry's Superior Plated Bullet, Plated Hollow Base Flat Point and Speer 230GR FMJ Copper Plated Bullets
The USMC team ( and others) uses VVN310 with a 185 JHP and lead 200SWC's to win the Camp Perry matches. Wilson Combat uses such a load as well as Alliant Bullseye to shoot their test targets. Certain High Master Bullseye shooters compete with the same bullets and WST.

I suggest the money spent on 230FMJ's might better be spent on economical Magnus or Zero 185JHP's or any 200gr plated bullet...especially if low recoil is desired. If you want to stretch the limits of accuracy, you can try some Remington 185FMJ's or Nosler 185JHP's. But you'll need a Ransom rest and a 50yd range to see the effect. Lots of 185 and 200gr bullets will shoot better than we can hold at 25 yds. Some 230's may also, but why?


Any recommendations on load data, I am not holding you accountable if I screw up on a load.
 

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I suggest you start with a Speer #15 Manual.

I like the Laser Cast 200 grain SWC (or Penn) over 4.0 grains of Hodgdon CLAYS (not International Clays and not Universal Clays, just CLAYS). Load for a COAL if 1.250".

I prefer cases that take LP primers and If I have a preference it it probably Federal Primers, but I've never really had issues with other brands.

This is an accurate, soft shooting load that has worked in every 1911 I've tried it in.
 

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in for the education.great info so far , thanks
 

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Mastercast 200 gr. lswc w/4.8 grs. of bullseye powder and starline brass, 1.250 oal and taper crimp at .470-.471. Works great in my Baer, Wilson and Nighthawk.
 

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Hi,
There is a lot in this World I don't know...
But one thing I do know is, if you do not Taper Crimp .45 Auto...
You will have feeding problems...Trust me!
6e356827.jpg
 

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Which reloading manual to get? Wow, that is like asking what woman you should marry!

OK, that said, here is MY picks of the "best" reloading manuals to read. To read them, go to your local library and get them (and as many others as you can) through the interlibrary loan service. The service is free or low cost (library rate S&H) and worth every penny! Read them ALL and buy the one(s) you like best.

Lee Modern Reloading 2nd ed - great manual! It should be I rewrote the first book for Tricky **** Lee and got no credit, which is funny as he whines how he sent some guy some data and the guy added it to the data the guy had already published, but didn't give **** any credit. That's OK, I worked as a proof reader, fact checker and editor for many, many, many book publishers and authors and only ONE every gave me any credit. But not Dicky Lee.

Anyway, ignore all the lies about how great all Lee equipment is! Some is, some is junk I wouldn't give to people I hate, and I have used nearly all of Lee's presses (except cast classics) and most of the other stuff. The dies are the Best Bang for the Buck, the bullet lube is Z-Bart and sold for a LOT less else where, the case lube tubes will break open if stored for very long and dry out. The Lee single stage presses are pretty good LIGHT duty presses. I have yet to see a Lee press that did not have the wooden ball fall off after about ten pulls on the handle. Lee progressive/turret/what ever presses are junk. Pure and simple, junk. The Lee warranty (two years - which they do NOT stand behind!) is a sick joke. Every OTHER reloading company has a LIFETIME warranty they stand behind, Lee has a "2 year warranty" they do NOT stand behind. Let that be a lesson to you.

I like the #49 Lyman better than the #50, haven't read the #51 yet, but any Lyman manual is good. Where do you think Tricky **** got HIS loading info? That's right, from everyone else!

If you can find it, the LONG out of print DBI METALIC CARTRIDGE RELOADING #3 manual is fantastic. They told you what was what, what was good, what was junk, pulled no punches and told you no lies! No wonder it is harder to find than fanged chickens! Every library I checked that SAID they had it had it stolen!

Every other reloading manual out there is good too. There are no bad manuals out there now, and I collect reloading manuals. Some of the older ones had loads that I am amazed didn't blow guns up! A LOT of it was "by gosh and by golly" loading. Some of the pressures were proof load worthy and the velocities were "hmmm, that seemed pretty fast, so I'll list it as......, no, it was probably fast than that, yeah, THAT should be about right for speed!" I'm not kidding, some of the old manuals will make your hair turn white!

Of course some of the "reloading" groups/sites on the net are worse than the old manuals as far as putting out BS/dis/mis/and pure lie load info. Yes I can supply you with a list, but it might not be appreciated to have them pointed out openly.

If you load Hornady bullets, get the Hornady manual too. If you load Speer bullets, buy Speer too. ALWAYS check your load data before loading! ALWAYS go to the powder/bullet maker site for load data! DO NOT take ANY load data off the net with out checking a manual or manufacturers site first! If I tell you that the Hodgdon site said that Winchester 231 and Hodgdon HP38 are the same powder and always were, GO TO THE HODGDON SITE AND CHECK! They are of course, but CHECK ANYWAY!

Remember the gun, eyes, hands and face that might be destroyed because you screwed up might well you YOURS! Load accordingly. Don't shoot other people's loads either. I am perfectly content to risk blowing up MY gun with MY loads, I got no idea about yours!
 

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I have Lee's manual. He spends a lot of time patting himself on the back while reassuring us of his humble ways.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Well I am getting my load table set up and bought some Titegroup, but I guess that wasn't the best powder for 45. I bought Berry's 45 acp .452 200 HBFP and 185 GR HBRN trying to look up load data on them. Thanks for the help, might get the bulleye powder or w231
 
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