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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How much additional width could you expect to get peening the rails? I've got a Colt that has about .012 frame to slide differential. Is this too much to peen?
 

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Custom Pistolsmith
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How much additional width could you expect to get peening the rails? I've got a Colt that has about .012 frame to slide differential. Is this too much to peen?
I haven't penned one in many years, but when I worked with Marvel it was fairly common practice on rebuilds. It really depends on how much up and down you have as well, but picking up .005-.008" per side was not uncommon if done properly with a good set of frame way bars of proper size.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I’ve read some posts about the frame moving around and as a result the BTGS not fitting when done. Legitimate concern?
 

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The Tinker
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What about barrel fit/lockup after peening? Any concerns?
If the slide is pulled down enough vertically, it can cause fitment issues with the lower lugs if the barrel was fit to the looser frame to slide fit.

But, this can be an opportunity to touch-up those lower lugs and get more contact between them and the slide stop pin. :)
 

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Custom Pistolsmith
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I’ve read some posts about the frame moving around and as a result the BTGS not fitting when done. Legitimate concern?
Never had that happen to me in the 70-80 that I did over the years.

What about barrel fit/lockup after peening? Any concerns?
It will almost certainly change the barrel fit in one or more ways, usually for the good.
 

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Custom Pistolsmith
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Does it last once it's done properly?
In my experience it is the least favorable option of the three I've done over the years. I rank them as follows in regards to longevity:

1. Accu-Rail
2. Weld frame and machine to fit slide
3. Peen frame and machine to fit slide

Another issue with peening is, once you do it, it's hard to have other things done like welding or accu-rail and have the frame look proper. But I will give you this little tidbit. If you want the gun to look good from the back end, stay forward about .250" when peening the frame. If you don't, you'll be able to see the rails pounded down.

Also, make sure you use a smooth faced hammer. The one I used to use was a 24 ounce ball peen hammer that I had literally buffed the flat head on after rounding the corners slightly. Oh, and don't even attempt it if you are not using properly peening blocks for the ways of the frame...you'll ruin the frame in short order forever.
 
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