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Discussion in '1911 Gunsmithing' started by Brian O'Kelley, Jun 23, 2020.
I'll leave that one to you.
We are all gonna Die but not by slowly letting a slide down on an empty chamber LOL some of us will understand metallurgy and that circumstances alter cases .
Others will just proclaim themselves as Gun Gods and treat every gun the same but you just rock on with your bad self its a hoot reading this stuff .
Make sure you start your next post with the sigh . It gives it that total smacked ass effect right from the git go LOLOL Just messin with you no need to go Rambo
Yup, hold the trigger all the way to rear while dropping the slide. That's a bridge too far for me. The golden rule of keeping my finger off the trigger until you want to make a really loud noise is burned into my DNA.
Yep I have heard that whole the trigger should be depressed whenever the slide is in motion thing but it doesn't set well with me either not to say that its wrong at all but its just one of those things I don't like to do
Any particular reason to remove the shock buffer?
In 5" 1911s the reason is mainly to avoid possible malfunctions related to the inevitable disintegration of the buff. As long as you keep that in mind and check the condition of the buff at every cleaning your Colt will be fine. If you intend to use the Colt for self defense, I would remove the buff. Murphy's law.
Most 5" 1911s will run fine with them but it is absolutely verboten to put them in shorter than 5" 1911s. The reason is that the shorter 1911s have an abbreviated slide stroke. In other words, the slide doesn't travel as far to the rear as a 5" pistol. Putting in a shock buff further reduces the slide stroke. This often leads to failures-to-lock-back, bolt-over-base malfunctions, and ejection problems.
I've seen RIA 5" 10mm 1911s where the slide stop notch in the slide was a smidge further forward than most other manufacturer's 1911s. With a shock buff in the pistol the slide would lock back but you couldn't thumb down the slide stop or pull the slide to the rear to disengage the slide stop. I suspect the only reason the slide did lock back was because the recoil of the 10mm gave the slide enough momentum to compress the buff sufficiently to allow the slide stop to rotate up into the notch. I'm not so sure the slide would have locked back with light loads.
Yes they typically cause more problems than they're worth.
Had a friend with a totally reliable Springer that became totally unreliable as soon as he put a Shok buff in it. It was a 5” gun. Buff back out, gun totally reliable again.
Helps if you know how to use/install a shok buff. But if you don't know, then it's best if you don't screw with them.
They weren't developed by NASA...
What's your point?
They are a simple device to install, they just cause problems with enough guns to be leery of. I am sure there are many other variables, specific to the gun they are put in, factoring into their failures. I just think if a shooter replaces the recoil spring regularly like they should, they are not needed.
Apparently not. I have run them for decades with zero issues, but to hear all the whining and teeth gnashing on this forum there are a lot of folks here who are unable to fit them properly.
Disclaimer: I use them in full-stroke (government, chopped government) 1911s and have never attempted to use them in a short-stroked commander or officers.
And your opinion about not needing them is fine. While I no longer shoot thousands of rounds a month, I still use them. Maybe it's just habit, but as they have caused me no issues, I see no reason to stop.
I may be doing things wrong but I've only ever slid them onto the skinny end of the guide rod followed by the closed end of the recoil spring. Help me out here. What's the secret?
Welcome to the forum. This is what Addict do in your situation.
Option #1 - learn how to do a full detail strip, inspect all parts, replace all springs, clean and lube.
Option #2 - send it out to one of the fine gunsmiths with a blank check for a full build and DLC finish.
Option #3 - buy 15 or 20 more 1911’s one of the is bound to run and you’ll forget you even own that one because it’ll be buried in the back of the safe.
We love spending other people’s money around here. Personally I’d start with option #1
Well...I'll jump in, everyone else has!
To the OP, lose the buff, it creates a ? mark and you don't need that trying to find a problem.
If you still have the problem after the WC Mags, I'd look else where for the problem.
Not to many correct 1911's that won't run with a Wilson!
If I was you I would read and digest, Steve's extractor information, use a WEB Page to PDF Converter to save it and study it.
Lots of good info there and maybe the answer to your problem, a pistol as old as yours could have a weak worn out extractor???
Hard to fix a 1911 over the Computer but good for bouncing ideas around.
The work is up to you though if you want to fix it yourself!