Make sure the stain screw is tightened down. If it backs off you'll experience what you described...may have nothing to do with the mainspring itself...or it might.

Also...some make ammo has thick primers that take a hard hit to fire. Armscor is like that.

 

I've been shooting revolvers since I was kid, some had the same issue with light strikes. While some were due to hard primers most were due to light spring issues. To me it is pretty important to have a revolver that fires any round with any primer. I will always sacrifice a lighter trigger pull for reliability.

 

I will always sacrifice a lighter trigger pull for reliability.

I'm with you all the way, on that!
I'll get this one sorted out, for sure. Long love affair with K frame snubs, all is good with this one, I'll just get it better.

 

Full power Wolf ribbed. Probably has a light one in there, as you said. Underwood and BB both have hard primers IME. Also grab an extended firing pin. You need at least an 8lb pull to ignite hard primers. Sometimes even 9lbs with some primers. This is why I wish Federal would make real HSTs in 38+P and 357.

 

A leading cause of misfires are primers that are not completely seated. It sounds that these were seated enough to allow frre cylinder rotation, but if they were slightly high it could cushion the foring pin strike. On characteristic of a high primer is firing on a second firing pin strike.

 

Federal primers are generally the softest. That may be what’s in that Speer ammunition. That you say the action is so sweet indicates that maybe somebody has been working on it. As already noted check the strain screw and bottom it all the way in. if that doesn’t do it, you can bend the main spring a little bit to make it hit harder. Last thing is to order a new spring.

 

I'm all good with the strain screw, as I check those right away after taking in a new (to me) revolver.
Regarding "bend the main spring" trick... I'd just as soon install new springs and leave to the bending to the "pros", ha!
This is a defensive revolver for me, not a range toy, so fresh springs are preferred over "bending" any springs.

I've only owned this snub for a short time, and prefer to leave well-enough-alone, given the choice. But, seeing as how I had the light primer strikes... I'll dig in and likely replace the firing pin spring (again, this is the newer internal, frame mounted, firing pin) and maybe even upgrade the firing pin assembly while I'm at it.

Also, I'll get a look at the mainspring and see, but it's almost certainly an aftermarket. I have no problem with aftermarket, but in the past, have experienced light strikes when attempting to "upgrade" to lighter springs.

I don't care one bit for a "better" trigger, if that means even ONE light primer strike.
This revolver is now under the microscope, and I'll report back as things develop.

 

I would check it sure but if nothing is wrong why put a heavier spring in if you're not intending to shoot that ammo anyway?

Try a comp ii speed loader next time and see how much easier they are to use over the knob style.

 

I'll definitely be on the lookout for any additional light strikes, for sure. For now, I do trust it with the Speer Gold Dot, but in future range sessions, ANY light primer strikes will result in some factory springs going into this revolver.

Regarding the speedloaders, yeah... that's a whole 'nother thread, ha!

 

There are professional gunsmiths who do not believe the frame mounted firing pin guns to be reliable enough for carry without a longer firing pin.

 

I've owned a slew of K frame revolvers (with the internal/frame mounted) and never installed a longer firing pin.
Not saying that professional gunsmiths are WRONG, just saying that I've never needed a longer pin.
Maybe this snub will be my first?
Thanks for the suggestion, I'll keep you posted!

 

How are you carrying this beauty? Holster, position?

 

IWB at 3:30ish, TT Gunleather:

 

TK Custom adds them, as well.

 

Well, hell... am I the ONLY sumbeotch who DOESN'T have an extended firing pin in a K frame?

 

Based on my tinkering history, I haven't been able to run a reduced rib in a newer FP S&W without light strikes (depending on the primers). And in these newer guns, I usually just replace the rebound spring to lighten the pull. I've got a 2022 19-9 and haven't had any issues with various types of ammo (I did replace the rebound spring). But tolerances in every gun can be different.

 

Because I consider all ky revolvers potential carry guns, when I get a used gun I almost always replace the mainspring and rebound spring with stock springs and so far have not needed a longer firing pin. But I put an Apex hammer kit in a M19 carry comp just to try out and in that gun I used a longer firing pin.

 

How did the Apex work out?

 

It's ok but nothing to write home about.

The M19 carry comp I have is my test-bed, tinkering revolver. When new it had a really heavy DA trigger, and like I said, I avoid lighter springs. Long ago, my LAPD academy class firearms instructor told our class to suck-it-up-buttercups and instead of messing with the gun, build up hand strength. And Jerry Miculek I believe has said that crisp and fast rebound of the trigger is a key factor in rapid shooting. Or something to that effect.

So I put in the Apex kit, first trying the lighter springs that came with the kit. I thought those were ridiculously light and mushy and, after trying some combos of stock and lighter springs, I put in the stock springs with the Apex hammer. It still feels a little mushy to me, but if I was going to carry the gun I would put it back to stock.

 

I’d suggest a full power ribbed main spring, and a medium weight rebound. Especially if the light strikes occurred firing DA.

Another thing, wouldn’t hurt to check headspace. I had a 3” pre-lock M64 that had headspace a bit out of spec. Agency gun with intermittent DA light strikes. Fixed the HS, problem solved.

My opinion, any S&W should be able to be 100% reliable - with any quality ammo, without sacrificing trigger quality.

Really nice piece, BTW. Perfect with those Pach’s. Looks like a keeper!

Nice leather too. Maker?

 

You are correct, I should check the headspace on this one. I bought it used, but I can tell that it had seen VERY little use, so I hadn't considered checking headspace.

The leather is TT Gunleather IWB, my favorite holster maker.