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Guess I jumped the gun...

1K views 12 replies 8 participants last post by  Mike A 
#1 ·
I was crowing a bit about how well everything went with the installation of my new C&S trigger kit, prior to actually test firing it. Or should I say, attempted to test fire it :oops:. Got the dreaded click instead of a bang, and not a mark on the primers. Figured it was the S80 parts, for some reason, I always want to put the lower lever in backwards. Sure enough, did it again, but on reassembly, now I'm getting hammer follow. It cocks fine by hand, but not when I rack the slide, most of the time. And no, I'm not dropping the slide on an empty chamber.

The instructions that came with the kit say I probably need to shorten the sear nose, usually about .005". I'll go there if I have to, but I don't have a jig or appropriate stones on hand, so I'm looking for suggestions for other things to try before dropping the cash on stuff I'll probably only use this once. If it matters, pistol is an ORM 1991A1, it's been "modified" by the PO, which is partly why I needed to install the kit in the first place. There's a little play in the slide to frame fit, but it still locks up solid and shoots well. BTW, just to make sure I hadn't messed something else up, I put it back together with the original parts, no issue. Thanks for your help.

Dave
 
#2 ·
Just an update for anyone interested. Tore it back down yesterday, got out the calipers, and started doing some comparison measuring. Turns out the C&S parts are larger in pretty much all dimensions, i.e. heavier built. Not a huge difference, but there's definitely more metal there, so I'm considering that a good thing. Decided to put it back together with the new parts, only this time, I substituted a heavier WC sear spring. Seems to have solved the problem, at the cost of a slightly heavier (5.5 vs. 4+ #) trigger, something I may tweak down the road if I feel the need. Will probably order a sear jig in the meantime, just in cas I decide I HAVE to get it down to 4# :rolleyes:. Later.

Dave
 
#3 ·
Hey, I've also ran into issues with some of the C&S "kits, and others too, where the hammer hooks being shortenend to .018" are just too darn short. I prefer mine at least .020". But all mine are potential hard use guns, not range guns. Good luck. Seems you're on the right track
 
#4 ·
I have found that in most cases ,useing c&s magic kits as a substitute for proper “ trigger job “ can be futile and a waste of time and money.
Imho, you would do better learning what it takes to set up a 1911
IE: property square hammer hooks , primary and secondary sear angles,the #.020 , stoning and polishing of parts and trigger track,correct relationship of sear spring to hammer and sear , Ect Ect.
 
#5 ·
I have found that in most cases ,useing c&s magic kits as a substitute for proper “ trigger job “ can be futile and a waste of time and money.
Imho, you would do better learning what it takes to set up a 1911
IE: property square hammer hooks , primary and secondary sear angles,the #.020 , stoning and polishing of parts and trigger track,correct relationship of sear spring to hammer and sear , Ect Ect.
Yeah, but you think you're a shark, so what the hell do you know :eek:.o:? Love the sig line, BTW. You're probably right, and in that vein, I've got a sear jig on the way. As to the rest of it, I do have a pretty good understanding of what's going on inside a 1911, but I tend to jump into the shallow end of the pool when getting involved with new stuff. If I decide to stay with it, then I go deeper, spending money on tools and time on learning to use them properly. That's the way an air rifle hobby morphed into a machining hobby, so close tolerance work isn't something I'm afraid of. This seemed like a viable short cut, and it almost worked. And if I need to make some minor adjustments, so be it, I'm still starting with much better quality parts than what was in there. Later.

Dave
 
#6 ·
Holy crap guys . . . I'd definitely leave trigger jobs (or anything gun related) to absolute trusted EXPERTS! Your life, or someone else's, is worth the expense. I will drive, fly, shoot the **** out it - just not smart enough to fix the darn things. Jus sayin.
 
#7 ·
Holy crap guys . . . I'd definitely leave trigger jobs (or anything gun related) to absolute trusted EXPERTS! Your life, or someone else's, is worth the expense. I will drive, fly, shoot the **** out it - just not smart enough to fix the darn things. Jus sayin.
It's not rocket science, Don ;). Truth is, most guns are pretty simple machines, once a genius like John Browning does the heavy lifting of actually designing them. After that, patience, attention to detail, patience, a willingness to learn the system, and patience is all it takes. And did I mention patience :)? It helps being mechanically inclined, rebuilding a carburetor is more complicated. Later.

Dave
 
#9 ·
Interesting (?) follow-up. Got the Harrison True Radius sear jig in and decided to use my original sear for practice. Turns out that even at the shortest possible setting, the old sear is too short! Makes me even happier that I replaced those parts, even if I didn't get exactly what I thought I was getting. Will most likely tear it down again at some point, just because, but for now, I just want to shoot it and see what I think. Unfortunately, that could be awhile, my local range is shut down due to fire danger, and I don't think there's an alternative within 100 miles :(. Oh well, at least I have a "new" toy on the way that I can fondle in the meantime :). Later.

Dave
 
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