Help doing some simple stuff...

Discussion in '1911 Gunsmithing' started by QNman, Mar 7, 2012.

  1. QNman

    QNman 1911 Lover Supporting Addict

    274
    Feb 28, 2012
    Howdy. New to smithing.

    I am trying to replace my mainspring housing on a Para GI expert and install a Wilson fitted beavertail using the Wilson jig.

    1. In reassembling with the new ms housing, I cannot get it into place without the hammer being locked in the forward position. If I try to cock the hammer, it won't go. What did I do wrong?

    2. To use the beavertail jig, I need to remove the safety, but the dang thing will NOT pop off. What the heck?

    Thanks in advance.
     
  2. dilespla

    dilespla Never made it to step 12 Supporting Addict

    Oct 12, 2011
    Rest assured, the experts will be along shortly to let you know. Is the hammer strut too long?
     

  3. littlejake

    littlejake Member

    38
    Feb 21, 2012
    Looks like the experts are absent -- so, I'll throw my 2 cents worth of experience in:

    I've never tried to do what you're doing. But, I have swapped MSH's. There is always tension on the hammer strut with the MSH in place. The hammer does have to be more forward than it would be in the "normal" hammer down position to install the MSH. The key is to get the strut into the MSH while pushing up the MSH to get the MSH retention pin in. After that, the hammer should cock. If not, then the strut is likely not in the MSH resting in the plunger seat. Also be aware the flat multi-purpose spring is held in place in the frame under the MSH by the MSH. Be sure you keep it there.

    As for the safety -- the thumb safety has to be removed to allow the grip safety to be removed. The thumb safety axle is what the grip safety pivots on. I remove the thumb safety of 1911's by pulling the hammer back beyond it's usual cocked position while working the thumb safety out by rotating it to beyond "on" and pulling. Usually takes some wiggling to get it out.

    So, I assume you have to use a jig to re-drill a pivot point for that beavertail grip safety you selected.

    For what you're attempting, I think I would remove the hammer axle and hammer/ strut assembly and put it back in last (but before the thumb safety.) Also, don't you need the MSH removed when installing the beaver tail grip safety. It's bottom is captured under the MSH.

    Best of Luck.
     
  4. QNman

    QNman 1911 Lover Supporting Addict

    274
    Feb 28, 2012
    Do I drift out the hammer axle? What has to be removed first?
     
  5. knedrgr

    knedrgr Low capacity, low tech...

    Aug 15, 2011
    1) Hammer can't be cocked when installing a MSH into the frame. If it's cocked, then you'll have one hell of a time trying to get the MSH all the way into the frame and to get the MSH pin thru the frame and MSH.

    2) Assuming the Para GI has a standard single-sided thumb safety. Follow these steps: a) cock the hammer, b) engage the TS as if it's blocking the sear, c) from that position, wiggle it slightly back and forth while trying to pull it out of the frame. If you have an ambi thumb safety, then the right side should pry straight out of the frame, before you can get the left side out.
     
  6. knedrgr

    knedrgr Low capacity, low tech...

    Aug 15, 2011
    The hammer pin should easily come out w/ a push from the right side (when looking at the gun as if you're hold it.)

    And lastly, there's NO NEED to re-drill any pivot hole point for a new beavertail grip safety. The point of the jig is so you can shave down the GI tags so you can install the new BTGS.
     
  7. knedrgr

    knedrgr Low capacity, low tech...

    Aug 15, 2011
  8. littlejake

    littlejake Member

    38
    Feb 21, 2012
    Safety out first. The hammer axle will push out fairly easy with the hammer down and forward enough to relieve the tension on the strut.

    Yes, it's a single side safety.

    In that case (if you don't need the jig) you may be able to leave the hammer in place.

    Be sure to keep that flat multipurpose spring in it's slot -- it supplies trigger, sear, disconnect force.
     
  9. knedrgr

    knedrgr Low capacity, low tech...

    Aug 15, 2011
    The jig is there as a guide to give you the proper angle and material to grind down the GI tangs. However, depending on the BTGS, one might need to do some final (hand filing) on the tangs for the BTGS to correctly line up w/ the frame.
     
  10. QNman

    QNman 1911 Lover Supporting Addict

    274
    Feb 28, 2012
    For clarification:

    1) cocking isn't happening AFTER ms housing is reinstalled. But I wasn't pulling. Super hard as I didn't want to break something. Will try harder.

    2) jig isn't for drilling - it is for reshaping the frame.
     
  11. QNman

    QNman 1911 Lover Supporting Addict

    274
    Feb 28, 2012
    Yeah... This.
     
  12. knedrgr

    knedrgr Low capacity, low tech...

    Aug 15, 2011
    you have all of the sear, disco, and sear spring in correctly? Double check.
     
  13. QNman

    QNman 1911 Lover Supporting Addict

    274
    Feb 28, 2012
    Update: got the safety out. Damn safety plunger is NOT captured (but I was able to find it after it shot out).

    Frame work almost done, beavertail fits nice - just a LITTLE deeper to get the safety back in.

    Found a couple of parts not on the 70-series schematic at Midway. One appears to be a slide stop of some kind? Pivots on the trigger pin.

    Which part is the magazine disconnector? Can a 80-series be "converted" to a non-disconnector version?
     
  14. QNman

    QNman 1911 Lover Supporting Addict

    274
    Feb 28, 2012
    Sear and disco were not removed. Sear spring is the left side of the leaf, right? Having difficulty figuring out how it fits in right.
     
  15. QNman

    QNman 1911 Lover Supporting Addict

    274
    Feb 28, 2012
  16. Kruzr

    Kruzr Hangin' In Supporting Addict

    985
    Sep 7, 2011
    A 1911 doesn't have a trigger pin.

    1911's don't have magazine disconnects. No idea what the second part of your question means.

    Sorry and no offense, but it really seems like you are in way over your head and would benefit from finding someone to stand next to you who knows 1911's to help you.
     
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2012
  17. dilespla

    dilespla Never made it to step 12 Supporting Addict

    Oct 12, 2011
  18. knedrgr

    knedrgr Low capacity, low tech...

    Aug 15, 2011
    Oh, it's a series 80 with the firing pin block. Those parts are tricky. But then, if you had left the sear/disco/hammer in the frame, then those parts would've stayed in place.

    Take some pictures and post them to see how you're assembling that sear spring.
     
  19. QNman

    QNman 1911 Lover Supporting Addict

    274
    Feb 28, 2012
    Sorry - "hammer pin".

    Of course I would. If I had a 1911 armorer buddy, I'd call him up and wouldn't be posting on the interwebs. But thanks anyway.
     
  20. QNman

    QNman 1911 Lover Supporting Addict

    274
    Feb 28, 2012
    The part I am talking about is on the hammer pin. I know how it goes back in, but curious what it's function. It is not on the 70-series diagram. I will get some pics up this weekend some time.

    Thanks for everyone's patience while I work out the correct terms and names for everything.
     

You need 3 posts to add links to your posts! This is used to prevent spam.

Verification:
Draft saved Draft deleted