Help with Grip Safety

Discussion in '1911 Gunsmithing' started by paid4c4, Jan 12, 2012.

  1. paid4c4

    paid4c4 Supporting Addict Supporting Addict

    303
    Sep 26, 2011
    I'am finishing up my first build and have ran into a problem I can't figure out. I had the gun assembled and tested with everything working correctly including the thumb and grip safety. The weapon was dirty and oily from fitting parts so I decided to disassemble it and place the frame, slide and parts in the ultrasonic cleaner. After the parts were cleaned, dried and lightly oiled I reassembled the weapon. I then discovered the weapon worked as it should except for the grip safety. I've disassembled it several times to no avail and I can't seem to find the problem. I'm sure it something simple and I'm just missing it. A little background on the weapon; Wilson Combat frame and slide, with most of the internals being Wilson Combat Bullet Proof parts. Any assistance would be appreciated.
    Bill
     
  2. Quack

    Quack it's mmm, mmm good... Staff Member Admin

    Aug 15, 2011
    What's not working on it? It the sear spring properly placed on the GS?
     

  3. paid4c4

    paid4c4 Supporting Addict Supporting Addict

    303
    Sep 26, 2011
    The failure is the hammer drops when the trigger is pulled even though the grip safety hasn't be engaged. I'm thinking the disconnector is up under the sear. I'm going to put in back together and make sure the sear and the disconnector are in their proper places when assembled. Back to the bench. Please keep ideas coming.
    Bill
     
  4. Quack

    Quack it's mmm, mmm good... Staff Member Admin

    Aug 15, 2011
    Does the GS fully swing down?
    Are you using a Wilson Trigger?
     
  5. paid4c4

    paid4c4 Supporting Addict Supporting Addict

    303
    Sep 26, 2011
    Yes to both questions.
    Bill
     
  6. knedrgr

    knedrgr Low capacity, low tech...

    Aug 15, 2011
    Cock the hammer and lock the slide back. Drop the slide with the slide stop and see if the hammer will follow.

    Is the trigger's take-up tabs out more? Might have too much take-up on the trigger and isn't reseting properly so the GS isn't engaging.
     
  7. paid4c4

    paid4c4 Supporting Addict Supporting Addict

    303
    Sep 26, 2011
    Continued for tomorrow, Mr. Arthritis sent a message to my hands that it was quitting time, this getting older thing isn't for the faint of heart and it's no fun, sure beats the alternative however.
    Bill
     
  8. paid4c4

    paid4c4 Supporting Addict Supporting Addict

    303
    Sep 26, 2011
    A follow up report; I reassembled the weapon this morning checking everything over as I went, but alias no change the grip safety still didn't work. Knowing my hands weren't going to take another full day of trail and error I decided to read Walt's book and visualize the 1911 and my problem. I decided that the new beavertail I was using might be a source for the problem. So I swapped out beavertails and the pistol functioned normally. When I get the time I'll see if I can identify the problem with the beavertail and make the needed corrections. Tomorrow is the big day to test fire my build at the range. Pictures of the pistol and range targets are coming, promise. If the test firing goes well it's off to the engravers, the project continues.
    Bill
     
  9. limbkiller

    limbkiller Pulling my hair. Supporting Addict

    Aug 18, 2011
  10. knedrgr

    knedrgr Low capacity, low tech...

    Aug 15, 2011
    At last, the culprit. Does the new, problematic, BTGS cam normally? Or does the working BTGS cam more than the problematic one? If the one that's not working doesn't cam much, then most likely the safety blocking arm is too long and will need to be file down. If it cams normally, and the trigger is still dropping the hammer, then the safety arm was filed too much and a new BTGS is needed.
     
  11. paid4c4

    paid4c4 Supporting Addict Supporting Addict

    303
    Sep 26, 2011
    The fun and educational part of a build like this is actually enhanced when problems like this arise. It forces you to learn the workings of the pistol and to figure out what is wrong, why and how to fix it. While it was a PITA last night it feels good now knowing I was able to figure it out and to get past the problem. It's also nice to share problems with others who share the same passion for 1911's who will help with problems. I'm loading magazines now getting ready for the range tomorrow.
    Bill
     
  12. Kruzr

    Kruzr Hangin' In Supporting Addict

    985
    Sep 7, 2011
    If it is a new beavertail that you didn't file on to fit the blocking arm then the problem lies in the fact it is too long and resting on top of the trigger bow rather than sliding down behind it to block the bow.

    I would slide the MSH down and see if pulling the GS out just a bit will allow it to block the trigger. If so, you need to remove some material from the blocking part of the arm. If you can't get it to block the trigger when you pull it out a little, then there is too little material.
     
  13. knedrgr

    knedrgr Low capacity, low tech...

    Aug 15, 2011
    You also might need to file the back of either the BTGS or the inside top of the MSH. There might b too much material there to prevent the GS to completely pivot down and engage the trigger bow.
     
  14. paid4c4

    paid4c4 Supporting Addict Supporting Addict

    303
    Sep 26, 2011
    I'm headed to the range to test fire this baby. I'll post the results later. I have a idea of what's wrong with the grip safety. I think it or the frame needs to be cut some where the pin goes through the frame. I think it is binding and not allowing for full movement. Wilson claims the beavertail has been fitted to the frame as it comes as a kit, I think what they mean is that the beavertail has been roughly fitted and needs to be fine tuned. I'll fiddle with it later but for right now its time to shoot!! You've just got to love new toys.
    Bill
     
  15. paid4c4

    paid4c4 Supporting Addict Supporting Addict

    303
    Sep 26, 2011
    Well guys this sure has been an aggravating build, but I don't give up so easily. My first m1 Garand build wasn't so smooth either and that was 50 or 60 builds ago, now they seem to build themselves. I felt good enough about the 1911 to go to the range to test fire it. Theres good news and bad news. Good news first, the pistol feeds, cycles and extracts and ejects just fine. My first three shots were dead center on the target. Then all of a sudden I couldn't get it to fire. I could pull the trigger back but the hammer wouldn't release, then after several attempts of pulling the trigger back the hammer dropped and discharged properly. I was able to fire several more rounds in a normal fashion before the pistol did the same thing of not firing. In testing the pistol once I got home and to the bench I could get the pistol to fire if I pulled up or wiggled the hammer a little. It's like the sear is holding the hammer and when I raise the hammer just a little it fires. I've stopped work on it for the time being to think, read and get some opinions from some of you Addicts. This is just a minor adjustment because when the pistol does fire it cycles correctly and is accurate, I've just got a hitch in the get along. Any advice is appreciated.
    Bill
     
  16. Kruzr

    Kruzr Hangin' In Supporting Addict

    985
    Sep 7, 2011
    You have a disconnector issue. It is either sticking in the down position or the pad is not making contact with the sear for some other reason. Does the disconnector pop back up when you push down on it?
     

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