I ran a survey awhile back on another site about Officer length frames. I used the info build a CCO sized pistol. This one is an aluminum framed 45 ACP and a Frankenpistol. The goal was low cost and use on the shelf decent used parts to see if I like it enough to build a ground up good one in the future. Some parts are just better off new.
First a word about the jigs I used for the 80% frame on this project.
I used a Phantom jig I acquired off GB used. It was used and clearly abused. Basically I used this jig to cut the rails. There are nuances with using this jig. It will cut deeper on the clamping screw end if you don’t apply pressure on the unsecured end of the jig. So I learned to do that. LOTS of chips/cuttings, too. Put a plastic bag or bucket under it. Oil all the sliding surfaces and a drop occasionally in the groove being cut. I used Hoppe’s and Rem Gun Lube. The guide holes for the sear and hammer pins were elongated. Previous owner must have used a hand drill and the bit walked, elongating the holes. My first frame suffered for that.
Learning off the first frame, I had perfect rails and grooves going. Then I had to recut to fine tune the clearance. I set the cutter to just touch the groove bottom. I thought that would make the cutter just graze the groove end to end. Nope, added a couple thousands clearance with that blunder. When I swiped it along the groove I knew I cut off too much. Still, I ended up with .0034” lateral and 0.0006” to 0.0011”vertical slide/frame fit after fitting and polishing. Keep in mind the jig is not a set it up, cut it and assemble it process. Lots of measuring, cutting, disassembly of frame from jig, measuring, reassembly of jig onto frame and more finesse cutting.
I used the Vytamenc jig to locate and drill the sear and hammer pin holes. Very nice jig and purchased it for the eventual mill I intend to acquire.
This pistol is built on a Spector Supply 80% frame. Though I am not completely sold on the 80% thing these frames have been nicely spec’d, the one caveat being the area between the abbreviated checkering and the top of the front strap. This one is aluminum and my second one done so far. The first, a Gov’t size frame, is stainless. There is a BIG difference in cutting and shaping aluminum components. The old ‘go slow’ advice is quadrupled from this enthusiast when working in aluminum. It was pleasant to have a more shape friendly build, though.
The Slide Assembly
Unused Para Commander Elite, 4.25”.
~ Barrel - very low round count takeoff from a TRP. I used a lathe to shorten it which yielded a chamber to muzzle .575” O.D.. I dressed back the front of the lower lugs on the lathe as well. I dressed the muzzle on the lathe then recrowned and lapped it. I may just do a flush cut and reverse crown on it. Time to try that, I guess.
~ Bushing - takeoff NM part which was fitted to a .575” Colt barrel and slide.
~ GI firing pin - bought used
~ GI extractor bought used.
~ firing pin stop - New Extreme Engineering;
~ rear sight- new Para night sight
~ front sight - was on the slide. It is a Para sight with missing fiber optic. I have the light pipe now I just have to install it. The
~ recoil group - Choate, new parts.
Frame parts which are used takeoffs are:
thumb safety - Fusion, like new condition
grip safety - looks like S&A EZ Fit
mag catch - Springer
sear, disconnector, hammer strut - Springer, IIRC
New frame parts include;
hammer - Klominus, early one, not bad
trigger - Remington (R1), added an overtravel screw in the back of the trigger shoe
ejector - Thunder Mtn Custom
plunger tube - Ed Brown
mainspring housing - Sig
grips
Grip screws & bushings - new
springs - new, 18 pound recoil and 23 pound mainspring
pins - new
The frame came with the front strap checkered. The front strap also had some kind of dual cut high hold relief, cosmetically not pleasing. I just took it further, blending it out. Not sure how to treat it. I thought of stippling up through the bottom of the trigger guard. the down the checkering french borders. The mix would look conflicting, I think. Perhaps that and stipple through the checkering as well. Just leave it for now until I see the light.
The trigger breaks at 3.75 pounds. The grip safety is not relieved as high as I normally take it but it works on this pistol. I have a slight round butt in the works which helps with the shorter frame. You can see I like the Caspian and Baer type high hold relief under the trigger guard. A couple of my pistols have true but not huge undercuts.
I am at the stage of ready to test fire then do the final tuning, contouring, blending, and finish
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First a word about the jigs I used for the 80% frame on this project.
I used a Phantom jig I acquired off GB used. It was used and clearly abused. Basically I used this jig to cut the rails. There are nuances with using this jig. It will cut deeper on the clamping screw end if you don’t apply pressure on the unsecured end of the jig. So I learned to do that. LOTS of chips/cuttings, too. Put a plastic bag or bucket under it. Oil all the sliding surfaces and a drop occasionally in the groove being cut. I used Hoppe’s and Rem Gun Lube. The guide holes for the sear and hammer pins were elongated. Previous owner must have used a hand drill and the bit walked, elongating the holes. My first frame suffered for that.
Learning off the first frame, I had perfect rails and grooves going. Then I had to recut to fine tune the clearance. I set the cutter to just touch the groove bottom. I thought that would make the cutter just graze the groove end to end. Nope, added a couple thousands clearance with that blunder. When I swiped it along the groove I knew I cut off too much. Still, I ended up with .0034” lateral and 0.0006” to 0.0011”vertical slide/frame fit after fitting and polishing. Keep in mind the jig is not a set it up, cut it and assemble it process. Lots of measuring, cutting, disassembly of frame from jig, measuring, reassembly of jig onto frame and more finesse cutting.
I used the Vytamenc jig to locate and drill the sear and hammer pin holes. Very nice jig and purchased it for the eventual mill I intend to acquire.
This pistol is built on a Spector Supply 80% frame. Though I am not completely sold on the 80% thing these frames have been nicely spec’d, the one caveat being the area between the abbreviated checkering and the top of the front strap. This one is aluminum and my second one done so far. The first, a Gov’t size frame, is stainless. There is a BIG difference in cutting and shaping aluminum components. The old ‘go slow’ advice is quadrupled from this enthusiast when working in aluminum. It was pleasant to have a more shape friendly build, though.
The Slide Assembly
Unused Para Commander Elite, 4.25”.
~ Barrel - very low round count takeoff from a TRP. I used a lathe to shorten it which yielded a chamber to muzzle .575” O.D.. I dressed back the front of the lower lugs on the lathe as well. I dressed the muzzle on the lathe then recrowned and lapped it. I may just do a flush cut and reverse crown on it. Time to try that, I guess.
~ Bushing - takeoff NM part which was fitted to a .575” Colt barrel and slide.
~ GI firing pin - bought used
~ GI extractor bought used.
~ firing pin stop - New Extreme Engineering;
~ rear sight- new Para night sight
~ front sight - was on the slide. It is a Para sight with missing fiber optic. I have the light pipe now I just have to install it. The
~ recoil group - Choate, new parts.
Frame parts which are used takeoffs are:
thumb safety - Fusion, like new condition
grip safety - looks like S&A EZ Fit
mag catch - Springer
sear, disconnector, hammer strut - Springer, IIRC
New frame parts include;
hammer - Klominus, early one, not bad
trigger - Remington (R1), added an overtravel screw in the back of the trigger shoe
ejector - Thunder Mtn Custom
plunger tube - Ed Brown
mainspring housing - Sig
grips
Grip screws & bushings - new
springs - new, 18 pound recoil and 23 pound mainspring
pins - new
The frame came with the front strap checkered. The front strap also had some kind of dual cut high hold relief, cosmetically not pleasing. I just took it further, blending it out. Not sure how to treat it. I thought of stippling up through the bottom of the trigger guard. the down the checkering french borders. The mix would look conflicting, I think. Perhaps that and stipple through the checkering as well. Just leave it for now until I see the light.
The trigger breaks at 3.75 pounds. The grip safety is not relieved as high as I normally take it but it works on this pistol. I have a slight round butt in the works which helps with the shorter frame. You can see I like the Caspian and Baer type high hold relief under the trigger guard. A couple of my pistols have true but not huge undercuts.
I am at the stage of ready to test fire then do the final tuning, contouring, blending, and finish
