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Discussion Starter #1
Morning all,

I had an A2 Commander built by Dan Wesson last year, received around May.

I’ve shot it roughly 600 rounds. The manual recommends FP10 for lube. I used it for the mechanicals.

For the exterior I’ve used the same thing on this as I have all my other blued guns, break-free CLP and Renaissance Wax. I may need to correct my products.

Went to shoot a new target with my pops on Saturday.






I wiped the gun down with CLP and cleaned it later that night.

This is what I found:





The driver’s side has a lot of discoloration/mottling on it.

I reached out to DW and have been told it is what it is and what I used wasn’t recommended.

So I wiped it down with mineral spirits and have it coated thick with FP10 but it seems the damage is done.

Has anyone had this happen to matte or polished hot blue and know why it happens?

Thanks in advance!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Looks like duty treatment to me. Are you sure the gun is blued?
That does look like duty treat but I thought they didn't do DT carbon guns..
Great question! I requested the typical matte hot blue when I spec’d it. They tell me it’s hot blue. Would not know how to confirm it.

Maybe...apply CLP and see if it clouds the finish??!!
 

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1911 Pistol Smith
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I've never seen a blued finish react that way to any chemical but maybe powder blast or brake cleaner. Acetone maybe. But, nothing oil based you have got a duty treated A2 which imo is their mistake.. The only finish I've ever seen do this is nitride, DT, melonite etc..

Hot blue would bead blast off Duty treat will not if you inconspicuously sand a spot under the grips and don't pretty quickly get to a bare metal appearance then it's a Duty treat gun..
 

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1911 Pistol Smith
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Nope I soak my blued guns in CLP over night when they come back from finish.. It's oil based..

Call me at 419-305-4121 I was able to clean one of these up awhile back and get the blotching out of it.. No promises but, I can tell you how I did it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the input.

Steve, I’m supposed to be working right now so I’ll try to call another day!

This was the order form:


It’s been explained that this is 100% on me so seems I have to see if I can live with it or refinish.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Since the communication between myself and DW seem finalized here was their response.





I’ll add, I didn’t write requesting/demanding a fix. Simply an explanation since I’ve never had it happen to other firearms.
 

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I’m just here for the 1911’s
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Even the side of the front sight looks affected, I don’t quite understand how this happened to only one side of the firearm...
 

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They're full of it. They had an issue with their bluing process - it happens. Thing is, they're not willing to accept responsibility - make that a data point in any future purchase deliberations.
 

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Even the side of the front sight looks affected, I don’t quite understand how this happened to only one side of the firearm...
Could be as simple as an issue with a prep step, where something got on the surface just before being blued. If it WAS something the OP did because of the products he was using, BOTH sides would be affected.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
That’s basically what I expressed to them, at least I hope.

I didn’t write an email with my hand out. I reached out asking what the he’ll could have done this? And why 1 side? And why now?
 

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1911 Pistol Smith
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That is definitely not blued IMO bluing would of come off with a harsh stripper or chemical they claim was used. If left on surface too long one side can damage without the other.. Totally different color..And the sheen of the surface.. Here is an A2 slide with no oil that is about 2 years old..
4B00B6E6-5887-4674-9793-194836983403.jpeg
DA7957B6-C66D-4323-AD38-903B7659835C.jpeg
 

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1911 Pistol Smith
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Even a small scratch under the grip panel would reveal if its bluing. Duty Treat will scratch but still be black underneath. While bluing would come off with minimal effort and immediately show a shiny spot.
 

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Could be as simple as an issue with a prep step, where something got on the surface just before being blued. If it WAS something the OP did because of the products he was using, BOTH sides would be affected.
I don’t know if I am buying this argument. Why would DW not use the same process for both sides? If OP can be consistent, DW can be consistent...

As stlgecko points out above, there seems to be finish damage on the front sight and I would assume those get blued in large batches and could have been finished weeks and months before the slide was finished.

OP, we can all imagine what you are going through - it sucks! I am not saying you are trying to deliberately blame DW and take advantage of them, but can you think about all the times you laid this gun down? Could you possibly have set it on a rug that had some solvent on it that could have eaten through the CLP/RW and exposed half of your gun to elements you were trying to protect it from?

I had an Oh Crap! moment with my first melonite finished gun when I caught myself wiping it with a rag I used to wipe off a blued gun that was cleaned with Hoppes9.
 
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