I’m considering hot bluing (not cold or rust bluing) the frame, slide, mainspring housing, and magwell on my next build (or maybe Parkerizing). Does someone have suggestions on the process or a solid reference?
That's a possibility. It's the "Remove from water, dry, card, and repeat process 6-10 times" part that makes me interested in the hot bluing for 20 minutes.You're not going to try Mark Lee's Express bluing? Lousy pictures, lousy lighting...but it works.
Have you tried the Brownells bluing salts? Is the EPI better/different?I’ve done quite a few using Ultra-Black 400 from EPI and a deep fryer from Wally World. The whole process is on the EPI website and it works really well. Let me know if you have any other questions and I’ll help if I can.
I leave it in a sealed 5 gallon plastic bucket and reuse it. It’s not a whole lot different than a bag of rock salt. You could probably neutralize it with an acid , maybe vinegar, or something like that. Consult your local laws.How will you dispose of it when you are done with the process? That may be the reason for the commercial address. I highly doubt you can dispose of it by dumping it down the drain...( Not saying you would, but there are those who would).
I am still seriously considering Parkerizing. My hesitation is that I like the deep blue-black of a nicely blued gun.I've done hot bluing with homemade formulas and brownells. Nasty is the only word for it. Parkerizing is simple very straight forward and not nearly as caustic. Maganese is the way to go. Mark Lee's is a great product and doesn't need as much equipment. Very nice finishes.
Today I mainly parkerize.. easy to get gray, greenish or black finish..
There is a bit of prep to get to that point.Hot bluing is nasty and the bath is a dangerous fluid. But the bluing is in one step - immerse the parts, wait, rinse, done.
Yes, the prep, as in many things, is key. It is similar regardless of the process. Everything points to the critical need to be really and truly degreased, and then avoid any contamination along the way.There is a bit of prep to get to that point.
Degrease parts and wire to suspend the parts.
In to the salts
Rinse quickly to avoid flash drying.
Water displacing oil.
I've re-done more than one batch because of poor prep or the water burning off and the part not being fully immersed. It's really not that bad if you follow all of the rules. Do it outside if at all possible. Do not use anything aluminum or zinc coated or you'll have a problem. Read as much as you can beforehand.