[Integrity Arms]

Definitely haven't found one real true in any aspect. width, height, etc.. Just find a happy median and go for it. Some are close enough it takes a real eye to see the variations..

 

[Integrity Arms]

Doing this kind of machining is amazing to me. I could not even attempt to do all these things without violating my " I got thru another day without using algebra" mantra.
But I do have a question. What is the purpose of this machining?

Some machining is purely aesthetic, but some machining on a lot of production guns become necessary to bring guns back into proper specs and dimensions. Tightening slide to frame fits etc.. Front strap machining on a smooth gun is done to provide a better grip surface.. Some serrated cuts on top of the slide and the rear of the slide reduce glare when shooting in high light or sunlight conditions etc.. Not all are purely aesthetic in nature. Some serve to lighten the gun and provide better action and or recoil.. A number of reasons really.

 

[pistolwretch]

"What is the purpose of the machining"?

Well, do you know the difference between a pistolsmith and a large pizza?



















A large pizza can feed a family of four.

 

[Integrity Arms]

LMAO How true it is, how true it is...

 

[pistolwretch]

Just funnin'!
The extra cosmetic work is neither more nor less profitable than any other work the smiff does.
It does add that 'custom' touch to a build though.
Think of it as a custom paint job on your truck......
or breast augmentation for your wife.

 

[Integrity Arms]

And you cannot install a Stan Chen Gen 1 magwell without machining the frame first.

 

[Integrity Arms]

Just funnin'!
The extra cosmetic work is neither more nor less profitable than any other work the smiff does.
It does add that 'custom' touch to a build though.
Think of it as a custom paint job on your truck......
or breast augmentation for your wife.

Or in some case a breast reduction hahaha... If need be. lmbo..

 

[pistolwretch]

I was speaking of French Cuts and Ball Cuts.

 

[ACP]

LMAO How true it is, how true it is...

Well I'm doomed for any future in Smith work, got baby #4 on the way!

Your explanation confirms some fears I had and would have spent a lot of time verifying, I knew a square and flat slide would be too good to be true.

I saw a comment about poor surface treatment possibly being a contributor, what would you guys suggest in terms of progressive grits/ steps to final prep a slide for a deep slow rust blue job?

 

[Combat Weapon Systems]

The ball end mill cuts and French border are for aesthetics.

 

[Combat Weapon Systems]

I true up the slide flats by placing sandpaper on a piece of granite tile and sand the flats. This wont work if its off by a large amount. I do this to all the slides on my builds just to make sure they are flat and even.

 

[ACP]

I true up the slide flats by placing sandpaper on a piece of granite tile and sand the flats. This wont work if its off by a large amount. I do this to all the slides on my builds just to make sure they are flat and even.

Sounds like a plan I'll surface plate it with sandpaper, what are your recommendations for sanding/polishing in prep for bluing?

 

[Combat Weapon Systems]

Depends on what kind of finish you want. If you want a matte blue you can glass bead blast it. And then polish out the flats or you can polish the whole gun out. Just remember bluing wont hide little imperfections like Cerakote or Gun Kote.

 

[Integrity Arms]

You almost got to start imo at about 220 grit to remove any imperfections, scratches, small protrusions/inclusions etc.. On softer steels you don't want to get real aggressive with 220 grit as it will scratch the surface also.. I progressively move up from there usually to 400, 600, etc.. once you get to 1000 grit if your going for a polished finish, jumps of 500 grit usually works well instead of the 200 increase. Now here is the thing when going for a polished look, you need to clean the surface after each progressive step, otherwise you leave the grit behind from the previous paper and just continue to scratch the surface with that... Every one has their own way but, it's really a matter of keeping the surface flat.. After you do it long enough you get to where you can see shadows in the metal where it is high or low, this is true when using a dremel as well. you can tell when surfaces are even and equal when no shadow exists in good lighting.

 

[boatdoc]

Or in some case a breast reduction hahaha... If need be. lmbo..

heaven forbid..why?..