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If it is inconsistent, I would probably consider it unsafe. I would probably put your original back in and take it to a gunsmith if you want the C&S kit. Nothing is really drop in, but sometimes you do get lucky.

I have had good luck with the Harrison true radius kit.
 

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Any advice on where to start looking for the problem?
Yes, never believe in Drop in & Universal parts.
This part of any firearm is the real danger zone.

I get the information 1st, then the tools & parts.
If I do not believe that I can do the job in a professional
way, then I find someone who can.

Just my .02 cents.
 

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I used a Wilson Combat hammer and sear set from EvilBay for my Auto Ordanance Thompson Custom. My inconsistant factory trigger break went from a 4.5-5.5 break to a consistant 4.0 - 4.3 break, Not race worthy but it sure is more comforting.

...Ron
 

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The Tinker
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Yes, never believe in Drop in & Universal parts.
This part of any firearm is the real danger zone.

I get the information 1st, then the tools & parts.
If I do not believe that I can do the job in a professional
way, then I find someone who can.

Just my .02 cents.
I've always thought that if a person is unable to diagnose and correct a issue in the critical areas of a firearm (barrel/chamber, ignition system, safeties) then they probably shouldn't be messing with it. But that's just my opinion, and worth every penny a person pays for it. :)
 

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A very long time ago through an Old mechanics teachings I learned.
Universal means it fits all, but does not fit a damn thing.

If you leave me some extra material I can fit parts together.
As for triggers on Military firearms, the triggers are safe! Until
someone comes along & screws up the design.

Almost everything that can be done to a 1911, someone has
designed & built a tool to do the job. Now the next 2 parts are critical
& so important. A part as good or better than the original factory part
& the knowledge how to do the job right.

I am not a refridgerator mechanic, but I can find the workshop manual
then order parts & fix my Fridge. :happy: I am a retired Mechanic.

You know if you can do a mechanical job & do it right. Why take the
chance when you can find a Gunsmith to do it?? I can't do brain surgery
Like Tac45 can :eek: Brains Brains LOL.
 

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I've always thought that if a person is unable to diagnose and correct a issue in the critical areas of a firearm (barrel/chamber, ignition system, safeties) then they probably shouldn't be messing with it. But that's just my opinion, and worth every penny a person pays for it. :)
How is someone going to learn then?

I’m all for trying. Just know when to call it and always safety first.
 

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The Tinker
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How is someone going to learn then?

I’m all for trying. Just know when to call it and always safety first.
By having someone who knows what they are doing teach them. Or take a class.

I'm all for trying new things. Heck, I do it all the time. But if that 'new thing' can harm someone else because I don't know what I'm doing, I tend to err on the side of caution.

My first brake job on my first car was not something I tackled by myself because I new that if I screwed it up I could hurt myself or someone else. It's the 'someone else' that I worry about. :)
 

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By having someone who knows what they are doing teach them. Or take a class.

I'm all for trying new things. Heck, I do it all the time. But if that 'new thing' can harm someone else because I don't know what I'm doing, I tend to err on the side of caution.
Not every one has access to a competent smith to be “shown” the way.

The OP has not stated that he has taken the pistol to a shooting range and had it go full auto and put every one at risk.

Maybe he is trying to learn the way to enhance the trigger of his 1911 and is just looking for guidance?
 

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The Tinker
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Not very one has access to a competent smith to be “shown” the way.

The OP has not stated that he has taken the pistol to a shooting range and had it go full auto and put every one at risk.

Maybe he is trying to learn the way to enhance the trigger of his 1911 and is just looking for guidance?
And I didn't say that he had. Did I? What I said was that if a person can't diagnose their own work, maybe they should take it to someone who can. Nothing else inferred here.

As I said in the first post, this is my opinion. You have a different one. And that's OK. We're all good.

And I'm done here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thank you to all for the advice. I've not had time to sit down and evaluate the problem. I've not measured the trigger pull with a gauge but I would describe it as heavy (guessing around 7lbs) and heavier (guessing around 9lbs). No apology necessary from Mike A.
 

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I've not measured the trigger pull with a gauge . . .
This is a different issue than the trigger pull changing. Solve one issue at a time.

Trigger pull weight is primarily dependent upon the geometry of the sear / hammer interface and the tension on the left two leaves of the leaf spring. There are other factors as well like how the trigger is fit to the frame and lesser ones like the weight of the mainspring.
 

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No apology necessary from Mike A.
No but I did notice something I did not like.
Ed you asked for help with a problem not a lecture.
You can help us Ed by taking a check on trigger pull weights.

What all did you replace with the Ing. kit?
Do the sear & hammer contact areas look true & clean?

What else besides weight do you notice about the trigger pull?
 

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1911 Pistol Smith
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What was the trigger like that had you convinced to change the ignition kit to start with? In other words was any of these problems pre-existing? Steve from Allentown is pointing you in the right direction. The big problem I see with some of these kits is they are not mated with a hammer, assuming you kept the original hammer? Most drop in kits that do not include hammer just assume the hammer interface, hook length, and hammer trajectory is within tolerance, why a lot of times the result is hit or miss.
 

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"Drop-In" are designed/and manufactured for "Spec" hammer and sear pin location which can vary.... thusly variation occurs in hammer/sear mating. Mating of the sear and hammer are the key to a SAFE and great feeling trigger.

Deburr and polishing the trigger track in the frame, trigger, sides of sear, disconnector hole in the frame, disconnector, inside of mainspring housing and cap should be deburred/polished/lapped for the ultimate trigger break. Trigger break weight is influenced by mating angle of sear and hammer engagement, sear spring (2 left legs), and mainspring. Look at what moves during trigger pull....what does it contact....how do all parts contact each other. Perfect those parts and move them to another frame and it will most likely feel different....because the hammer and sear pin locations have variation.

My mentor trained me using a couple of Essex frames that had significant variation in the pin holes distance and they were not parallel! Completing trigger jobs on those two provided a frustrating, but rewarding learning experience on mating hammer and sear engagement.

Learning the techniques is rewarding and you will always find a different "problem" if you do it enough...more experience to gain from the challenges you meet. Hang in there!
 
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