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I used ribbon... What do you use Jason?
I use wire more often than not. Just the way I know how to do it.

Also going to post another pic here of a gap in the magwell area, already discussed it with the client.. Is it possible to use wire to fill that little area without affecting the rest of the fitament and then blend that spot back in? Notice the second pic.
You could try to flow solder into that void but you (1) risk flowing the existing solder and (2) likely won't have good luck with that much solder staying in place after blasting.

When using silver solder you want the parts to have as tight of fit as possible so that you can have the only thinnest line of solder joining the parts. This not only makes for a cosmetically more seamless fit but also a substantially stronger bond. The thinner the joint the better the holding strength.
 
Discussion starter · #2,642 ·
Again not to dis WIlson combat but, come on why so much extra stock on their own Magwells. I mean seriously we've seen from Stan Chen how closely this stuff can actually be made. This is two in a row? Their pistol and their magwell. A lot of blending required here.. I know they can't all be easy or everyone would do it, but this is a bit of over kill in my book.
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Discussion starter · #2,643 ·
I use wire more often than not. Just the way I know how to do it.



You could try to flow solder into that void but you (1) risk flowing the existing solder and (2) likely won't have good luck with that much solder staying in place after blasting.

When using silver solder you want the parts to have as tight of fit as possible so that you can have the only thinnest line of solder joining the parts. This not only makes for a cosmetically more seamless fit but also a substantially stronger bond. The thinner the joint the better the holding strength.
I have to admit that the ribbon was a bit hard to cut and shape. Can you suggest a good source for the wire and size? I'd be willing to try that as well. I thought the same you told me about loosing the other solder had the same discussion with the client and we decided best leave this one go. Just wanted to make sure I had my head wrapped around it the right way. The solder held very well it has a great bond. Just have to make sure rest tighter next time and a little better inspection before heat applied. Oh I found the wire in Brownells I'd assume 1/32 good?
 
That's shocking the tolerances are so wide. Any idea if the variances are with the frames or the magwell's ?
 
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Discussion starter · #2,645 ·
That's shocking the tolerances are so wide. Any idea if the variances are with the frames or the magwell's ?
No but the last two I've done have both been compacts and both were steel framed, I can't honestly remember if the one I fit for you early on had that much extra stock or not.. Nit with Aluminum it would of been a lot less noticeable or painful. So it might of been. Just been a little to long to recall now..
 
Discussion starter · #2,646 · (Edited)
@Jason Burton A few more quick questions when you got time. So, is the 1/32 wire thin enough or do you know of smaller gauge? Also do you solder like you would pipes, or clamp the wire between the two pieces as I did with the ribbon? And as far as placement if done this way, I would assume putting it close to the center of the part would work better as to try and get it to flow to both sides. My first practice piece I ended with solder in the checkering, but the second I avoided by heating more from the inside of the front strap than at the very front.. I appreciate the pointers. I've soldered pipes for years in my construction business so had some knowledge of soldering, but this is a bit different from standard plumbing soldering pipes lol. But, with the wire I was thinking just to flux and have the solder draw in, but if clamped tight that would be hard to do.. with no gap for it to flow into. So I am assuming clamping the wire down between the two pieces is the correct way in this circumstance.. Actually looking at the thickness between the ribbon and the wire is a considerable difference as the ribbon is .005 and the wire .03125 I could see where maybe could flatten the wire and it would be extremely useful in wrapping around the front strap. Since it would be able to be shaped as opposed to cut.
 
That's shocking the tolerances are so wide. Any idea if the variances are with the frames or the magwell's ?
I agree. I cannot imagine the gunsmiths at WC dealing with this issue every day without somebody saying let’s change the specs on our magwell once. The other option being their time and $$ spent filing, grinding and shaping. Makes no sense.
 
Discussion starter · #2,649 ·
I use the 1/32" wire and flow it into the joint.

Optimally the parts should have minimal clearance (like .001"-.0015"), flux is applied between the parts and I use the torch to 'pull' or flow the solder around the joint.
So in the case of keeping it out of the checkering you pull the solder from the rear? or Or since you hand checker you probably checker after the soldering I assume.. Thanks man appreciate the heads up, was wondering if I got the wire maybe could mash it after bending around the front strap lol.. I might not have as good of luck with drawing it in, but I get the concept but, my hand steadiness isn't what it used to be either lol.. Thanks again, always looking for as much information as possible and as much knowledge and experience as possible. Wisdom comes from a multitude of counselors. ;)
 
Solders, both "hard" & "soft", flow via capillary atraction. Silver solder is sometimes called "hard solder". Most times it's called brazing. I've never brazed a magwell but I've literally brazed thousands of pipe joints. Mainly medical gases & compressed air systems.

You'll want to make sure you're getting good penetration of your filler metal too. Even though the magwell is a low stress part and a Solder "cap" would suffice it's always a good practice to shoot for full penetration. Sometimes, in medical gas for instance, it's code mandated.
 
I totally agree about the Chen Magwells the close tolerances and consistency means a ton to fitting each one... I'll get better at this, with the background I have it's just a matter of practice now..
I'm not qualified to fit a Chen, and I'll be darned if I'll pay someone else to do something I can do. So I just made my own. It does get easier after you've done a couple. :)

Edit: Said that wrong. I'm not authorized to buy one.
 
Discussion starter · #2,656 ·
I'm not qualified to fit a Chen, and I'll be darned if I'll pay someone else to do something I can do. So I just made my own. It does get easier after you've done a couple. :)

Edit: Said that wrong. I'm not authorized to buy one.
You can buy a Gen 1 anywhere, it's the Gen II magwell that requires you to be an authorized installer. No big deal really just a few questions about fitting as it has a locating fixture and is done a bit differently than the Gen 1 is. The parts are extremely consistent and very high quality. EGW makes one minus the mainspring housing but no real detail to it, just flat stock. I could make one I am sure, but time is of the essence so they say.. and time is money..
 
Discussion starter · #2,657 ·
I agree. I cannot imagine the gunsmiths at WC dealing with this issue every day without somebody saying let’s change the specs on our magwell once. The other option being their time and $$ spent filing, grinding and shaping. Makes no sense.
Take quite a bit more time then many of the magwells I've fitted and blended for certain.. literally can add a few hours to the final blending.
 
You can buy a Gen 1 anywhere, it's the Gen II magwell that requires you to be an authorized installer. No big deal really just a few questions about fitting as it has a locating fixture and is done a bit differently than the Gen 1 is. The parts are extremely consistent and very high quality. EGW makes one minus the mainspring housing but no real detail to it, just flat stock. I could make one I am sure, but time is of the essence so they say.. and time is money..
I agree with the time is money part. For you commercial 'smiths that is. ;)

I have more time than money, so it kinda makes sense to make some thing myself, plus I can customize/make unique things that I can't get from a store. I made the mag funnel for the 10mm a tad thicker to see if that little bit of extra mass down low helps with control during recoil (I did use a Chen MSH). It's the softest shooting 10mm I've ever built, so maybe I did something right. Or maybe I just got lucky.

That WC piece is a very coarse fitting. You'd think they would have done a little better job, but I don't know the reasoning behind them doing what they're doing.
 
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