Hi folks,
I did a search here, and didn't find anything on the subject. Has anyone had any first-hand experience with a DLC finish? Does it resist scratching, or just wear in general? How is it to maintain?
Thanks,
C
Then again so is a Melonite (Hardhat / Severns or Duty Treat/Dan Wesson).
Comes down to what you want to spend, the intended purpose of the pistol and it "normal" environment.
Yes, my EMP is DLC coated (Ionbond) and has minimal signs of wear even after several years (due to the aluminum). It can get gray or chalky looking after time if no oil is applied, but you can just apply a small amount of oil to the finish to get it looking black again. I would absolutely recommend it.
DLC is very hard and wear resistant but if you ding your gun or put a deep scratch on it you can compromise the integrity of the finish. So, like hard chrome, it's great against holster wear, handling marks, minor scratches, the kind of stuff your gun is subjected to everyday, but don't go dragging it behind your truck, nothing is going to protect your gun from that kind of abuse except maybe a Pelican case. Maintenance is a breeze, clean it with whatever you want, wipe it down with an oily cloth, wipe off any excess with a dry cloth.
This gun is done in Ionbond DLC. When I took this pic it had seen a couple of years of carry, 15 or so matches plus range time, and had over 3000 rounds on the barrel (which is also coated in Ionbond DLC) and there is practically no wear on the finish whatsoever. You can see a couple little scuff marks on the trigger but that's it.
DLC finish is tougher than nails and I have found that it's the most durable finish on the market. Give Hugh at Deep River Customs a call and he can get your gun refinished!!
View attachment 111151
DLC finish is tougher than nails and I have found that it's the most durable finish on the market. Give Hugh at Deep River Customs a call and he can get your gun refinished!!
I recently had to fit a DLC coated part. It took forever to break through the coating. What would normally be a few minutes of sanding took over 45 minutes. It was chewing through the wet/dry sandpaper.
I stripped a grip screw and tried the liquid professional jb-weld to the hex wrench/screw. It seeped on the frame by accident. Sprayed some Gibbs on it several days later and it cleaned it up as new.
Here is the barrel hood of my DLC finished Nighthawk Classic after 1200 rounds fired. This gun also gets brass kisses, and they mostly just wipe off with a little oil when I wipe the gun down.
Yes,it is the toughest finish I've ever had. I have not been able to scratch mine. I have one in satin and one in hi gloss finish. My Hardchrome guns are a lot easier to scratch.
I've had Black Nitride, Melonite finishes also. Both are very good but dlc is most durable in my experience
If you are thinking of having one done, I think Dave at Evolution Armory is one of the two Smiths that you need to go through to have it prepped for ionbond.
He is closest to the factory that does the application. I also believe he has a better eye for detail and the odds of getting it right are best if you go through him.
DLC is very hard and wear resistant but if you ding your gun or put a deep scratch on it you can compromise the integrity of the finish. So, like hard chrome, it's great against holster wear, handling marks, minor scratches, the kind of stuff your gun is subjected to everyday, but don't go dragging it behind your truck, nothing is going to protect your gun from that kind of abuse except maybe a Pelican case. Maintenance is a breeze, clean it with whatever you want, wipe it down with an oily cloth, wipe off any excess with a dry cloth.
This gun is done in Ionbond DLC. When I took this pic it had seen a couple of years of carry, 15 or so matches plus range time, and had over 3000 rounds on the barrel (which is also coated in Ionbond DLC) and there is practically no wear on the finish whatsoever. You can see a couple little scuff marks on the trigger but that's it.
Thanks. That gun is carbon steel, it's an ORM Colt 1991A1. It was polished before the DLC was applied, all of your metal prep has to be done before it gets coated, as with hard chrome, once it's done it's done and you're going to have a hard time changing it.
Good question Zoid. The finish does not fill in roll marks much at all that I can tell. However, to prep it, they do a light media blast . I was concerned I would lose my lettering on my bobtail or that it would be degraded .
It was one of those " we can't guarantee anything " situations , but it worked out fine in my case. . Best to talk with Dave at Evo. Everything ion does needs to go thru him or Chad Buie.
I do know several Smiths used to have Colts done in ionbond, but they don't offer it anymore. Ionbond started having problems getting it right the first time and the freight and the loss of original Smiths prep work made it a costly effort .
That is one thing I will share . My bobtail had to go back multiple times because there were shadows in the finish. They covered the freight, but at the time I was very concerned they would media blast off my lettering. They did not. I was told they have a chemical stripping process . It worked out ok, but I'd want some reassurance that they have this figured out.
I believe when I had mine done, it was on a line that did all kinds of stuff; aircraft parts etc. My understanding is they now have a dedicated line for firearms.
Despite all that , I'd still want it on everything I own if I could afford it
Good question Zoid. The finish does not fill in roll marks much at all that I can tell. However, to prep it, they do a light media blast . I was concerned I would lose my lettering on my bobtail or that it would be degraded .
It was one of those " we can't guarantee anything " situations , but it worked out fine in my case. . Best to talk with Dave at Evo. Everything ion does needs to go thru him or Chad Buie.
Not everything gets media blasted or there wouldn't be any polished Ionbond DLC coated guns. Prep for DLC requires that the metal be completely bare - no blueing or anything else on it, and completely oil free - beyond that the surface can be anything you want, polished, matte, stippled, checkered, whatever.
I had the roll marks removed from my slide and the flats were mirror polished. Even though the roll marks on the frame were thinned a bit from the polishing, the DLC did not fill or obscure them, and it had no appreciable affect on the way all of the parts fit together. I don't think you'd have any worries about filling in roll marks on a slide, especially since the application process assures uniform thickness. Certainly, if Cerakote and hard chrome don't obscure them, this won't either.
Ionbond, it's their DLC. Robin did all of the polishing, blasting, and prep.
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