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Gun "grease" is nothing but oil with some thickening agents. The entire reason for those thickening agents is because they make it sticky, which makes it tend to stay put. I've run RIG gun grease for years on the rails of my pistols. I'd be the Wilson products are pretty good too. The only real thing to watch for is when the temps get down near freezing. The grease can thicken up and cause the slide to slow down the first couple of cycles.
 

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Yesterday I actually put 50 rounds through my ACW without adding some lube with a needle oiler. I wanted to test the gun as if had been carrying it for a month or two since last cleaning. No problems but I only shot one box. I use the red Lucas oil and when I was cleaning it afterwards there was still plenty visible in all the right places. I stumbled across the Lucas oil five years ago and have been very happy with it. DW recommends FP-10 but when I was having trouble with a Specialist I told them I was using the Lucas and they were fine with that. I’m glad the gun is Ok.
 

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I am no gunsmith, so I shouldn't say this is proven by measured exact examination of parts wear... but I am an all weather shooter. I shoot when its 0 degrees and when its 104 degrees and anywhere else when I feel like I need to go, and I do keep a close eye on my guns for what needs replaced or tuned. I have been using 15W-40 Rotella T4 I get for my truck for the last 3 years. Its thick enough to not run away, it won't dry up on high round counts or evaporate after sitting for months in the safe. It works in all weather, on loose fit and tight fit guns. It eats carbon for breakfast too, so that's a major plus. I have had friends with custom 1911s have to change their oil type in cold weather or their guns will gum up, I so far have not experienced that with any of my firearms. Not saying it works for everyone, but it definitely has for me.

I already have to buy it by the gallon for the old 7.3, so I just top off a little bottle every oil change with some fresh stuff.
Wheel Tire Land vehicle Vehicle Cloud
 

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Rookie question, but how often are you re-lubing your carry/home defense gun if it's carried/sits more than it get's shot?
I try and shoot weekly and clean after I shoot. If I don’t I relube my night stand gun once a week. However my nightstand gun is my carry gun from that day. If it was just setting there not being carried you could go a lot longer. I pulled one out of the safe that was lubed with universal hadn’t been carried in probably close to 3 months and was still good to go.
 

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Until Glock hit the scene, I lubed without much concern for too much lube. In 1990 I started to move from IHMSA into USPSA and Bullseye the year after. I was lucky to mentored into Bullseye by a Double Distinguished shooter. He ran is handguns wet and rarely "punched the bore" with anything other than ammo for the full season.
I have followed the same with excellent results. (2600 Club)

My competition guns only get lubed until I feel guilty or before a Major Match. When that happens, I field strip and brush off the big crud and lube liberally. Rifles will only get their bores cleaned when I see accuracy drop off or on a known interval when that about to happen.

YMMV Patrick
 

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It was a nice day today and took out my fairly new Dan Wesson Vigil Commander out to my back yard range. After about 80 rounds I had a failure to return to battery. Slide was frozen to the frame. Back to the garage and after a couple of gentle taps with a nylon headed hammer the slide came off. There was some slight galling on the slide to frame fit (rails). A few swipes with a file removed some small burrs. No damage, mechanically or visually, done to the gun. This gun was very tight on the slide to frame fit and the barrel bushing fit.when I first got it and after 1K rounds is still tight.

This gun had been setting on a bed stand for many months and when I got the slide off I wasn't happy with the lube that was on it. (FP-10).
No WML on your “bed stand” gun?
 

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Any 1911 is perfectly happy being washed in diesel, and oiled with what ever is on the end of a truck/car dipstick.
I don’t think what you use is as important as keeping it wet.
A 1911 likes to be wet.
I use motorcraft synthetic,
Because I keep gal jugs of it.
I do use ol #9 to clean with just because I like the smell. And no longer own a diesel.
 

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Bad experiences with "quality" gun oils vanishing after short, medium and long periods of time has led me to grease and grease.

I shoot in all weather from below zero to 110 F. Oil just doesn't hold up. It fades, it goes away, it runs out, it burns off.

Especially for guns that are carried, I need something that will stay in place above all, but without being sticky.

I prefer black rifle balm and TW-25B. Lubriplate is excellent in a pinch.
 

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I use an oil/grease mixture on my rifle. Tried it on my custom TLE/RL II 10mm. Worked great until the Temps got cold. The cold grease got very stiff and it caused 2 FTF. I'll stick to oil and do it often from now on.

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Amazing that DW is still having issues with this

Great to hear it cane apart rather easily Dave

Yes, 1911s need some lubrication, no doubt. But this issue is less about lubrication and more about the quality of Dan Wessons. I just put “Dan Wesson” and “quality” in the same sentence. Best not do that again, I might start a trend…. 😲😲😲😲
 

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I use an oil/grease mixture on my rifle. Tried it on my custom TLE/RL II 10mm. Worked great until the Temps got cold. The cold grease got very stiff and it caused 2 FTF. I'll stick to oil and do it often from now on.

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What was the mixture? I'm interested. What were the temps?

TW-25B is rated to -40 F which is what I use. I've never seen it harden even in very cold temps after sitting for long periods of time.

Real world experience is very helpful though, if you have more details.
 
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