[7.62]

I’ve been using Wilson Combat medium red oil for years. It stays put yet is still thin enough to rub in. Thin strip inside rail channels on slide will stay there for months even when carried muzzle down in a holster in south Florida or in a car. Doesn’t really melt and run out all over the place. Small 4oz bottle lasts a long long time.

 

[Quickish]

I’ve been using Wilson Combat medium red oil for years. It stays put yet is still thin enough to rub in. Thin strip inside rail channels on slide will stay there for months even when carried muzzle down in a holster in south Florida or in a car. Doesn’t really melt and run out all over the place. Small 4oz bottle lasts a long long time.

Sounds like the AMU Red Oil I used for ages. Finally ran out, and mixing a batch would be a more than lifetime supply.

 

[Safestuffer]

I use a break in oil mixed 50/50 with Lucasoil oil treatment. The treatment raises viscosity and keeps the oil where I put it

 

[Hunt5877]

Maybe I missed this but are we talking about a Duty Treatment Vigil? I've heard of the stainless galling but haven't seen it on the Duty guns.

 

[seagiant]

 

[Uncle Bob]

After this I am seriously considering going to grease for a lube. Like the Lubriplate 130-A I use on my M1A.

I stopped using Lubraplate on gas guns in the 70s!

FP-10 doesn't last forever, I check mine Duty Coat's about once a week.

 

[Uncle Bob]

Rookie question, but how often are you re-lubing your carry/home defense gun if it's carried/sits more than it get's shot?

in this case it's a question of finish, DW is very specific about what to use on Duty Coat. I do have and use FP-10 because of this, but I do not use it on any other pistol.

 

[Trencher]

in this case it's a question of finish, DW is very specific about what to use on Duty Coat. I do have and use FP-10 because of this, but I do not use it on any other pistol.

I use fp10 on my vigil as well. Since I have it already I go ahead and use it on everything. Do you have something you like better?

 

[SPEEDYCQB3G]

I have a small bottle, with a needle dispenser, of Mobil One 15w-50. Full synthetic, slicker than cat $hit on a linoleum floor. Does the job for me.

Mobil 1… best shite ever for 1911 smooth cycle every time…👍👍👍

 

[tac45]

I listen to Uncle Lester , and run my Bears wet for the first 500rds. !

 

[MOshtr]

1911s run best when “wet.” Unlike modern polymer type pistols, 1911s were created in the era when people used grease and/or oils on machines….the 1911 is a tuned machine. I use a light grease on the rails and rub some on metal to metal surfaces. Can’t remember the last time I had a FTF.

 

[javbike]

Just standard Wilson Combat oil. I have amassed a huge quantity of it.

I with you PI I hsve both Wilson lite out and action oil which I really like

 

[phxgunrnr]

It was a nice day today and took out my fairly new Dan Wesson Vigil Commander out to my back yard range. After about 80 rounds I had a failure to return to battery. Slide was frozen to the frame. Back to the garage and after a couple of gentle taps with a nylon headed hammer the slide came off. There was some slight galling on the slide to frame fit (rails). A few swipes with a file removed some small burrs. No damage, mechanically or visually, done to the gun. This gun was very tight on the slide to frame fit and the barrel bushing fit.when I first got it and after 1K rounds is still tight.

This gun had been setting on a bed stand for many months and when I got the slide off I wasn't happy with the lube that was on it. (FP-10).

I always give them a touch of LSA after cleaning and have never had a problem.. Climate controlled storage is a must at my house

 

[ferrarif1fan]

I posted this on another thread but meant to post it on this one.

I've used Lubriplate Low-Temp grease for the worm screw on our drive thru window for the past few years. Because of this thread, I decided to pack some home last night and do a test. I have a DW ECO that has a fairly tight slide-to-frame fit. I cleaned the frame and slide dry, then applied a thin coating of the Lubriplate Low-Temp grease to both. Then into the fridge the pistol went. I let it stabilize to the fridge's temp of 30 degrees. I pulled the pistol out and worked the slide...no problem. In fact, this grease actually made it move easier than the 0W-20 Mobil One I'd been using on it.

So next, the pistol went into the freezer. After stabilizing at the freezer's temp of 3 degrees, I pulled the pistol out and worked the slide. Sluggish. However, I think there's a good chance that after a couple of shots to warm it up, it would probably work OK.

My typical gun grease for years has been RIG gun grease. I'll do the same test with that product within the next couple of nights and report back.

 

[G26S239]

1911s run best when “wet.” Unlike modern polymer type pistols, 1911s were created in the era when people used grease and/or oils on machines….the 1911 is a tuned machine. I use a light grease on the rails and rub some on metal to metal surfaces. Can’t remember the last time I had a FTF.

Yeah, I put TW25B on the rails of my 1911s and Sig Classics.

 

[crkckr]

2 of my 1911's are NP3 plated, which Robar said to run completely dry. Since I just can't bring myself to do that, they get a very thin coating of lithium grease, along with a dab of Mobile 1 20W 30 motor oil and they both run perfectly. My non-plated 1911 and my SA-35 pretty much get the same treatment, although during the summer months I use synthetic 90wt gear oil by the tiny dab along with the lithium grease (Lubriplate works just as well, I just happen to have a baby food jar of the stuff that's lasted for years and still has years to go). On stainless guns and my AR I use Brownell's black synthetic called Action Lube Plus and have never had any problems with galling. I've had the same 2oz container for many years and it will probably last the rest of my life! I'm a big fan of Break Free as well and use it in the actions of any of my guns although, several custom barrel makers said not to use in the bore, so I stick with synthetic there.
Cheers,
crkckr

 

[powwowell]

Quite a few years ago I learned that my 1911s were much more dependable when the rails were wet. I still would not turn my nose up at 3-in-1. Though I still think Mobil 1 is the better choice!

 

[crkckr]

Unless you're talking about long term storage or extreme weather conditions, I suspect any oil will work just fine at the range. The only time you really need anything "special" is under "special" circumstances! Anything from 3-in-1 to 30wt motor oil will do the trick while you're actually shooting. I think the only thing I would avoid is something like WD40 and Kroil, both of which are a bit too lite to lube properly. Then again, if that's all you have... use it! The only thing I'm careful of is getting too much near the back of the slide. If it gets wet, it will throw oil back on my glasses and it's pretty hard to clean off! Hmm, maybe I'm just getting picky in my old age?
Cheers,
crkckr

 

[Dave Jessee]

Thanks for all of the replies. The gun is still fairly new and tight. I'll stay with the FP-10 to prevent discoloration to the Duty Treat and make sure it's run a little wetter.

 

[westpat75]

I have not heard silicone sprays or lubes mentioned as a viable alternative. I have used that on my pistols in the past because it does seems to repel dirt and powder residue. Now that I have a 3K blaster, tighter than a frog's butt, I think I will give Lucas products a try. Also, gun butter came with the gun, but I have seen minimal mention of it here. Any thoughts on it?