[benniesdad]

I just recently purchased a Kimber Aegis Elite Custom in 9mm. The first owner just bought it in November and it has less than 200 rounds through it. The trigger feels a little gritty but I’m hoping that smooths out after I run more rounds through it but the trigger breaks at 5.5 lbs which is a little higher than I would prefer. My question is if I retained the factory sear and hammer and have them modified by a good gunsmith how much better can I realistically expect the trigger to get without replacing the hammer and sear with aftermarket parts? If I could get it around 4lbs or less with a clean break I’d be a happy camper. If that is not realistically achievable then I won’t waste my money with modifying the factory parts and go with aftermarket. I would prefer to modify the factory parts to save money. This will be a range gun only.

 

[dhearth]

you can get that weight down by tuning your sear spring. youtube will show you how. these guns are pretty simple and durable. pretty hard to let the smoke out

 

[Steve in Allentown]

If I could get it around 4lbs or less with a clean break I’d be a happy camper.

Yes, a real 1911 'smith or an amateur kitchen table hobbyist can get the trigger pull down to a safe, clean 4lbs using the original parts, assuming they're not damaged.

 

[ZoidMeister]

Here is what I was able to accomplish on this gun with all the original parts as I got it.

 

[Apollo99]

I did a kitchen table trigger job on my Kimber, mostly polishing things up, and took the hooks down to .020 engagement. Polished the bow and channel. Didn't want to stone or file anything down too far as I didn't want to go through the hardened surfaces. Played with the sear spring, and honestly it feels as nice as my other higher end 1911s. If I was going to have a smith do the job, I would probably buy non MIM, bullet proof internals, figuring if I was spending the coin I might best just go the whole route.

 

[Steve in Allentown]

IDidn't want to stone or file anything down too far as I didn't want to go through the hardened surfaces.

Just a quick note. Today's steel hammers and sears are not case hardened so there are no worries about going through a surface layer.

On the other hand, anodizing is relatively thin and you can go through it and end up with the soft aluminum exposed.

 

[duketbrd88]

Get a cylinder and slide sear spring. Cheap and easy place to start.

 

[duketbrd88]

I used to have a kimber it worked great for me. Also if you haven't or don't know how do it or learn . I would clean the internals, relube the hammer and sear and and make sure the trigger track is clean and dry. Also while the trigger is out you can polish up the trigger bow in about 5 minutes.

 

[duketbrd88]

Does the trigger feel the same with a magazine in as it does without one? Sometimes the trigger bow will be bent ever so slightly and rub on the magazine.

 

[benniesdad]

Thanks for the many suggestions. I have done a good bit of work on my Glocks and Ruger Mk pistols, but have never worked on a 1911 before. I’ve been a little reluctant to tear into it because I don’t have another one to compare it to if I mess up. I’ve been dry firing it a good bit, especially since I can’t go to the range and the trigger seems to be smoothing out but I’m sure a little Flitz would help it. Will probably start with the sear spring.

 

[ZoidMeister]

Thanks for the many suggestions. I have done a good bit of work on my Glocks and Ruger Mk pistols, but have never worked on a 1911 before. I’ve been a little reluctant to tear into it because I don’t have another one to compare it to if I mess up. I’ve been dry firing it a good bit, especially since I can’t go to the range and the trigger seems to be smoothing out but I’m sure a little Flitz would help it. Will probably start with the sear spring.

Cylinder & Slide light pull sear spring is a phenominal suggestion. I usually swap these into all my guns when I start tweaking on them. They are cheap enough to buy by the dozen.

 

[simonp]

One more possible issue to check, the Schwartz safety may not be property set and is dragging, its the downfall of the Schwartz over the Colt’s S80 FP safety, it takes more tuning and Kimbers come from the factory time to time without it properly fitted.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

 

[jjfitch]

If you are interested in doing you own trigger job here is a pretty good tutorial.
Google: "Weigand 2.5 pound trigger job"

Your Kimber uses good MIM parts and will produce a good, crisp, reliable trigger .
break.

All the best,

 

[Rick McC.]

Cylinder & Slide light pull sear spring is a phenominal suggestion. I usually swap these into all my guns when I start tweaking on them. They are cheap enough to buy by the dozen.

They’re usually good to drop the trigger pull a full pound.

 

[JNW]

I have a Kimber KHX OR 9mm which does not have the Swartz safety. I detail stripped it and cleaned everything. After about 1,000 rounds I tweaked the sear spring using the Weigand tutorial. No other polishing at all. It now has a safe 3lb trigger pull. If I close my eyes and dry fire in my easy chair I can JUST tell a little difference in trigger pull between the Kimber and my wonderful, professionaly tuned Dan Wesson. When shooting at the range there is no difference. I have a sample of one but am definitely impressed with my Kimber.
Jeff