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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all...I’m new to 1911’s and this site so please bear with me...I’ve searched “Tutorials” and can’t find information on how to install a Cylinder and Slide light sear spring. Does anyone have a link? Is this something that a novice can accomplish without special training and tools? Thanks!
 

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Just put it in . . . .


Its way easier to get it to seat properly if you remove the thumb and grip safeties.

Don't ask me how I know . . .
 

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However, if you just swap out the spring, you might only get #1.0 or #1.5 of improvement.

There is a lot of other things that make up the total trigger pull weight . . .

Don't ask me how I know . . . .
 
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What me worry ?
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Welcome from the coast of South Carolina.
STOP !
As a novice you DO need training and special tools to do a proper and SAFE trigger job .
Imho , all parts involved in the ignition system are dependent on each other and must be addressed by stoning proper sear and hammer angles , stoning trigger track and polishing disco and all other parts involved.
Throwing a sear spring in without it being adjusted can lead to
Hammer drop to half cock or accidental discharge.
Take it easy and learn from the knowledgeable folks here.
Good luck sir .

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Hello all...I’m new to 1911’s and this site so please bear with me...I’ve searched “Tutorials” and can’t find information on how to install a Cylinder and Slide light sear spring. Does anyone have a link? Is this something that a novice can accomplish without special training and tools? Thanks!
Welcome to the Forum Oz!

As noted above, there are plenty of videos showing how to install your new light sear spring...... just note in the above video, that it's NEVER recommended to drop the hammer onto the frame! This was done towards the end of the video.....either capture the falling hammer with your thumb or install the upper slide assembly before testing.

My first question would be what are your expectations after installing the new sear spring? Is your pistol a Series 70 or Series 80? The sear spring is part of a very complex fire control group in the 1911 series pistols, and can result in dire consequences if installed incorrectly. Please take the time to research the 1911 fire control group and don't expect huge improvements from merely replacing the sear spring.

I would also hope that you have invested in a trigger pull gauge prior to doing any modifications to any of the fire control components.....

HTHs!
 

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First time I tried swapping one of these out, I was too timid to pull out the grip and thumb safeties.

I got the gun back together but the hammer wouldn't lock back in half or full cocked position.
I monkeyed with that damn spring for about a week before I could get the gun to work properly. I swore I would never change out another sear spring again after it started working. I almost started out with a perfectly functional gun and ended up with a box of really nice gun parts.

What did you say your skill level with working on 1911's was again?


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To OP,
I have installed 4 C&S sear springs. Try installing first without tweaking . All of mine dropped in without requiring adjustment.

Then google 1911 safety function tests. Make sure it passes each of the tests.

First time at the range, load the mag with 1 round. Fire. Repeat several times. then do the same with 2 rounds in the mag, and so on.
 

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To OP,
I have installed 4 C&S sear springs. Try installing first without tweaking . All of mine dropped in without requiring adjustment.

Then google 1911 safety function tests. Make sure it passes each of the tests.

First time at the range, load the mag with 1 round. Fire. Repeat several times. then do the same with 2 rounds in the mag, and so on.
OP:
Badabing11 has offered some excellent advise that I failed to mention above! When making ANY changes to the 1911 pistol, it is mandatory that you also learn to safely function test the pistol! This is part of getting to know how your pistol operates/functions; which will make you a better owner/operator!

One of many:

http://sightm1911.com/lib/tech/safe...OMCT4hD_-p1e38awckHovEtKJqRrTEMRrTdtJzFCNb9N8
 

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First time I tried swapping one of these out, I was too timid to pull out the grip and thumb safeties.

I got the gun back together but the hammer wouldn't lock back in half or full cocked position.
I monkeyed with that damn spring for about a week before I could get the gun to work properly. I swore I would never change out another sear spring again after it started working. I almost started out with a perfectly functional gun and ended up with a box of really nice gun parts.

What did you say your skill level with working on 1911's was again?


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Zoid, you know all the alcoholic monkeys work at TTT :roflmaro:
 

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Hello all...I’m new to 1911’s and this site so please bear with me...I’ve searched “Tutorials” and can’t find information on how to install a Cylinder and Slide light sear spring. Does anyone have a link? Is this something that a novice can accomplish without special training and tools? Thanks!
Hello. I'm the guy that gets bristled up when people question my 1911 skills yet here I go. What is your... well... everything. Knowledge of firearms? What do you want to achieve?
You sound new and that is fine. Asking questions is good.
IMO you need to understand more before modifying your 1911.
Hint. The quality of the pull is more important than the weight.
We're here to help. Seriously.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Roger that, Tac. To provide more information..I have a DW Valor that I was interested in changing the sear spring, just to reduce the pull a small amount. It's stock and already adequate...yes, I know that the enemy of Good is Perfect...This is my first 1911 and it appears obvious that my skill set falls below what my objective is for a DIY project. Thanks all for your knowledge and thoughts.
 

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Roger that, Tac. To provide more information..I have a DW Valor that I was interested in changing the sear spring, just to reduce the pull a small amount. It's stock and already adequate...yes, I know that the enemy of Good is Perfect...This is my first 1911 and it appears obvious that my skill set falls below what my objective is for a DIY project. Thanks all for your knowledge and thoughts.

It's not all that difficult to swap out the spring. I related all my mistakes above.

Those who offered suggestions and cautions on safety are spot on. That is the first level of understanding one must acquire before messing with a 1911. Baby step #1.

After that, it's a labyrinth of learning.

Hell, I ran into an issue where changing out a set of grips caused my 1911 to fail to return into battery.

True story.
 
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I've installed several sear springs. All dropped in except for a couple Clarks with the extra leg. I like standard Colt springs or the C&S. I did have to tweak the thumb safety leg on one of them. On my guns the new springs reduced pull weight about 1 to 1-1/2# which was what I wanted, I like 3-1/2#. Can use 3# on a range gun.
 

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Roger that, Tac. To provide more information..I have a DW Valor that I was interested in changing the sear spring, just to reduce the pull a small amount. It's stock and already adequate...yes, I know that the enemy of Good is Perfect...This is my first 1911 and it appears obvious that my skill set falls below what my objective is for a DIY project. Thanks all for your knowledge and thoughts.
My Dw PM9 went from 4lb to 2.5 lb with the CS spring.
Believe me, YOU CAN do this.

It is easier to get the spring in without the thumb and grip safety. But I did 3 of them just removing the msh.
Do you have a photo of how the spring should look when installed correctly?

I’m not saying it’s easy, but I have tremors in my hands . A padded vise to hold the gun is a plus.

Be patient, walk away and think , then come back and try again. You can do it.
 

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Why not just adjust the spring the pistol came with?
IMO, if an owner is going to start modifying his/her 1911, then they should be 110% familiar with complete disassembly and reassembly.
With the correct understanding of 1911 operation, I too would rather modify the part that's already in the pistol along with having a new Colt sear spring as backup if needed.

One of my biggest concerns with swapping out a 4# pull sear spring with a CS or any manufacturer's reduced pull spring that brings the pull down to 2.5#, would be how are you to know that the extremely important middle leaf of the sear has at least the highly recommended 1# of static pull weight? If the ignition system has 1# of residual resistance, then we are very likely dealing with a combined sear spring pull of 1-1.5#!

Having too little pressure on the middle (disconnector) leaf can have catastrophic results!

:cry:
 

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1st step:
Learn to detail strip the pistol.
This will answer your question and more.
Keep us posted. We love to see folks learn this fabulous platform.
 
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