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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Unsure if this is the correct place to post this, but I didn't see a general gunsmithing section. Been planning on doing a Smython build for awhile now, still probably a year out (haven't decided on base gun yet), but I saw this barrel for dirt cheap and decided to take a chance on it. It's pretty badly pitted on the outside and in the bore. Planned on trying to remove the pits, but unsure of what to do about the bore. All the threads I see are referencing minor pitting in rifle bores not being a big deal, but what about more substantial pitting in a revolver barrel? It is pitted the full length of the bore, some deeper than the rest. I don't think this would be unsafe to shoot, but will there be any kind of accuracy with the bore in this shape? I don't need to be making 100 yard shots, but defensive range practical accuracy is a must.

The other question I have is in regards to the finish. I can't tell what this is/was. It doesn't look nickel to me, though I could be wrong. I can't tell if it's stainless, a blued gun with the finish removed, or just a nickel gun with a screwed up finish (maybe also removed), the rust points towards being carbon steel, but again I'm no expert on metals. There are some rough file/grind marks on one side, implying someone may have removed nickel plating that way, but the bottom lug doesn't have any and is a nice smooth, almost semi-polished stainless looking finish. There is black on the muzzle end, can't tell if it's just from the rust/age, or if it was blueing. Opinions? Final picture for finish comparison, stainless 1911 barrel, Python barrel, and nickel Raven 25.
Office supplies Cylinder Rectangle Font Art

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Rectangle Cylinder Office supplies Font Electronic device
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It was $30, figured it couldn't hurt. Good condition 6" barrels seem to be going for around $500 at this point. My plans for this (again, didn't know about the pitting in the bore before) was to work on it with files and sand paper to get the pits out, recrown the muzzle, and eventually refinish. I've read that using J-B bore cleaning compound/polish would smooth out any sharp edges of the pitting which would reduce the impact it would have on the copper jacketing, along with a proper recut crown would yield acceptable accuracy. Would be a lot of work, but it would keep it within my budget for the project, however I don't want to waste the time if A: the gun will be as accurate as a 3" barrel shotty at 10 yards and B: I have to pay someone to strip nickel plating off it
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ugh. I'd eat the $30 and not throw good money after bad.
What will you do to match threads with S&W?
TenRing is the only smith I've found that still does the conversion, I was going to use them. They recut the threads, fit to the Smith frame, modify the ejector rod housing, and install front yoke lockup detent. From what I read, a lot of people hold the opinion that bore pitting wont have a drastic affect on accuracy so long as the muzzle has a good crown. If that's the case, I'm out $30 for the barrel, $20 for a sight, and $25 for the J-B stuff, $75 total for the barrel. I don't mind putting in the work on the outside finish, this is a hobby for me and I've got time. Buying a good condition 6" barrel, plus cost of base revolver and conversion would yield a total cost of over the inflated price of a new production Python (over $2k), which I'm trying to avoid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Took a few minutes to give it a quick cleaning. Bore looks a little better, still a decent amount of pitting, but it doesn't look as bad as initial impressions, though I can't seem to capture it well on camera.
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Look at what Numrich might have available. In the past they have had a selection available.
Best wishes.
 
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Bummer. I haven't looked on their site for awhile. They had better choices last time I looked.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Did a small test spot on the barrel with some Brownells Oxphoblue to see if it would take, and it did. As far as I know, it wouldn't take to stainless or nickel plating, which means I think this is a bare carbon barrel that had it's blueing removed. Good news for me. It'll be awhile before I have the extra money to start this project so I have some time to think on it and maybe see what I can do on the pitting in the meantime. I'm not out much if I decide against using this barrel, or maybe I can find another use for it.
 

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Did a small test spot on the barrel with some Brownells Oxphoblue to see if it would take, and it did. As far as I know, it wouldn't take to stainless or nickel plating, which means I think this is a bare carbon barrel that had it's blueing removed. Good news for me. It'll be awhile before I have the extra money to start this project so I have some time to think on it and maybe see what I can do on the pitting in the meantime. I'm not out much if I decide against using this barrel, or maybe I can find another use for it.
No offense but that is not an “in the white” carbon barrel. I think you have a very cool idea, but that this probably isn’t the right starting point.
 
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