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Discussion in '1911 Gunsmithing' started by wrmiller, Apr 4, 2019.
Question for those who've done this: What diameter pin do you use in the top of the MSH?
In for the knowledge..
I suppose I could just put a really fat one in there and file it down, but I'm hoping someone here can save me a little hand work.
I superglue a small cube of rubber cut from a bunji cord onto one ear of the mainspring housing.
Easily removed, no permanent modifications.
My only worry with something like that is that it breaks loose and gums up the lockwork somehow.
If cut to the right size it's compressed and captured quite securely.
I cut the Wilson shock buffs to size and have shot a truck load full of ammo with no problems. Physically, I cannot see how they could come loose unless there were other problems inside the gun, but I am no gunsmith so take my opinion for what it is worth.
I use a short piece of 1/16” welding rod.
Thank you Sir!
I'm building a pistol for one of my favorite customers.
He has a hard time with the grip safety and his very high grip.
He wants to pass this one along to his son sometime in the future.
We discussed various options.
I suggested, and he agreed, that building up the grip safety hump would
be the way to go.
I'll mill off most of the existing hump, then silver braze a hunk of steel to the milled flat.
Then re-contour to look and feel 'right'.
I'd bet that just 3/32" more prominence will be comfortable for both father and son.
Of course, I will set the grip safety with a minimal engagement, but enough not to wear its self out in a few years.
To this end I pulled a trick out of my bag today.
The Harrison trigger measured .231" in height at the right rear corner. The trigger track is .240".
In setting the amount of engagement this .009" must be added to acceptable minimal engagement, as the rear of the trigger can 'float' over this distance.
So.........I milled .007" of the top of the rear corner of the trigger bow, and silver brazed a small piece of .016" shim stock to that corner. Then cleaned up the overlap internal and external.
The result is near zero vertical play.
Now I can safely set the engagement to the minimum, and know that the safety will work as intended at all times.
I've done this previously and showed pics of the process. Of course those pics refuse to be found!
If you'd like pics of the finished product, just ask! I love my camera!!
LOL! I could not resist using the camera.
First pic shows the finished corner and a gap between the insert and the .007"
This pic shows the finished right corner at .240" tall, and the stock left corner at .231" tall.
Looks like a lot more than the actual .009" difference.
Third pic is just an overview.
I highly value low mass triggers. This was touched on in the Gold Cup trigger thread.
I'm getting a steel MSH for the 2011, and want to pin the grip safety as I have always defeated the grip safety on my 1911s/2011s. With 2XXL hands and a preference for a high grip they are just too much of a PITA to deal with.
Hopefully, someday I will be able to afford one of those stainless grips. It doesn't even have a grip safety, and just has a fixed replacement piece for it.
With the advent of low-mass triggers, hammers, discos, and sears I see no reason for a grip safety in this day and age. But that's just my opinion.
Maybe for gaming guns but for a carry gun I much prefer a working grip safety. One more hurtle in front of a negligent discharge.
On my Caspian, I had a steel pin and aluminum grip safety. I wore a grove into the grip safety.
I got rid of the grip safety on my carry by getting an EDC X9. Thank you Bill Wilson for excluding this out dated tech.