I have many customers who are surprised at the cost to have sights installed on their pistols. They believe that it is just a matter of “knocking them into the slot”, While that is the general idea, much more is involved to insure the sights are installed properly, stay where they belong and no damage to slide or sights is achieved.
First; Many manufacturers use a specially designed hydraulic press to install the sights without needing to fit them. The parts are held so precisely that huge pressure is able to be exerted without damaging the sights or slide. This creates a challenge just to get them out many times and adds considerable time to the project.
The Springfield XD is the clear winner when it comes to removal and most often requires a milling procedure to get both front and rear out without damage to the slide. Older Sig P series, Beretta 92, Storm and some HK’s are also stinkers in terms of difficulty.
I have many tools at my disposal to remove and install even the most difficult replacements. The most important part is being able to hold the slide securely, without damaging or scratching it. Over the years I have tried almost every product on the market and found the EGW Sight Pro to be the best. I wont go into why I feel that way but you can check it out here: MGW Armory Sight-Pro Universal Sight Installation Tool
Generally sights are designed to install from a particular side of the slide, you can get an idea by either inspecting the replacement sight for a slight taper at one side of the dovetail or by looking for witness marks on the installed sight or slide as to which way it went in. It can be super tough to push an old sight out opposite the direction it started.
Sight material and finishing; There are many different processes used by manufacturers these days to produce gun sights. Originally sights were made out of carbon steel and finished black oxide or blued, Some still are but a trend toward MIM (metal injection molding) has become standard. Some producers are much better than others and can make a part that is almost as strong as the old steel types, while others are brittle and prone to breakage when being forced into a tight dovetail. Some manufacturers, (wont name names but starts with a T) have taken a great product and in order to increase profits, changed to MIM products with a Nitrocarburized finish. Nitrocarb is a surface hardening process that also forms a super hard beautiful black finish on the metal. While this is great for the bottom line it is not great for sights, especially front sights that are thin to begin with. So now we have a sight that is weak due to poor MIM processing and brittle from nitrocarb finishing that cant be filed or fit with a normal file. Only diamond files can be used and they are not available in the 60 and 65 degree profile used to for sights. Sadly many sights are now made this way and have only made installation much more time consuming and the risk of breakage more probable. Some of my favorite sights that are manufactured the old way include, Dawson Precision, Novak’s and Meprolight.
Some sight sets also come undersized which requires securing the sight with a special adhesive that can withstand vibration, heat and gun solvents.
Once the old sights are out, most, not all must be fit or filed so there is a balance between a secure fit and not breaking the sight. Generally experience is the key but rule of thumb is that about 40 % of the sight enter the dovetail with little effort, then a smooth press using a proper sight tool into position. I use a comparator block and micrometer to insure the sight is centered in the slide. While a punch and hammer can be used, it is advisable to only use an aluminum punch so as not to damage the sight or slide when it inevitably slips off during a hard blow. Damaging your hand or fingers when you miss the punch altogether is also possible when using this method. Before sight presses were mainstream this was the way I learned to replace sights, I had many painful weeks after a good contact to the back of my hand. Marks made by aluminum can be removed easily with a cold bluing solution or a bluing pen. Clean up with a oily toothbrush and Bobs your uncle. I do not recommend this trick on stainless slides as it will discolor the stainless..
I always encourage firearms enthusiasts and DYI bandits to do there own maintenance and light upgrades. sight installation is one of those things that with some ingenuity and a few proper tools you too can achieve success. Before you know it your friends will be coming to you for help with there sights. Never stop learning I say, “give it a shot” If you are local, and run into a snag, either in removal or installation, I am happy to help you get to the next step. Just bring me a small bribe or buy me a lunch and I can usually help you out on the spot.
The more time you spend with your firearm, either cleaning or upgrading helps you better understand the function and design, this enables you to spot potential problems as well as more efficient handling of failures to feed, fire and eject.
First; Many manufacturers use a specially designed hydraulic press to install the sights without needing to fit them. The parts are held so precisely that huge pressure is able to be exerted without damaging the sights or slide. This creates a challenge just to get them out many times and adds considerable time to the project.
The Springfield XD is the clear winner when it comes to removal and most often requires a milling procedure to get both front and rear out without damage to the slide. Older Sig P series, Beretta 92, Storm and some HK’s are also stinkers in terms of difficulty.
I have many tools at my disposal to remove and install even the most difficult replacements. The most important part is being able to hold the slide securely, without damaging or scratching it. Over the years I have tried almost every product on the market and found the EGW Sight Pro to be the best. I wont go into why I feel that way but you can check it out here: MGW Armory Sight-Pro Universal Sight Installation Tool
Generally sights are designed to install from a particular side of the slide, you can get an idea by either inspecting the replacement sight for a slight taper at one side of the dovetail or by looking for witness marks on the installed sight or slide as to which way it went in. It can be super tough to push an old sight out opposite the direction it started.
Sight material and finishing; There are many different processes used by manufacturers these days to produce gun sights. Originally sights were made out of carbon steel and finished black oxide or blued, Some still are but a trend toward MIM (metal injection molding) has become standard. Some producers are much better than others and can make a part that is almost as strong as the old steel types, while others are brittle and prone to breakage when being forced into a tight dovetail. Some manufacturers, (wont name names but starts with a T) have taken a great product and in order to increase profits, changed to MIM products with a Nitrocarburized finish. Nitrocarb is a surface hardening process that also forms a super hard beautiful black finish on the metal. While this is great for the bottom line it is not great for sights, especially front sights that are thin to begin with. So now we have a sight that is weak due to poor MIM processing and brittle from nitrocarb finishing that cant be filed or fit with a normal file. Only diamond files can be used and they are not available in the 60 and 65 degree profile used to for sights. Sadly many sights are now made this way and have only made installation much more time consuming and the risk of breakage more probable. Some of my favorite sights that are manufactured the old way include, Dawson Precision, Novak’s and Meprolight.
Some sight sets also come undersized which requires securing the sight with a special adhesive that can withstand vibration, heat and gun solvents.
Once the old sights are out, most, not all must be fit or filed so there is a balance between a secure fit and not breaking the sight. Generally experience is the key but rule of thumb is that about 40 % of the sight enter the dovetail with little effort, then a smooth press using a proper sight tool into position. I use a comparator block and micrometer to insure the sight is centered in the slide. While a punch and hammer can be used, it is advisable to only use an aluminum punch so as not to damage the sight or slide when it inevitably slips off during a hard blow. Damaging your hand or fingers when you miss the punch altogether is also possible when using this method. Before sight presses were mainstream this was the way I learned to replace sights, I had many painful weeks after a good contact to the back of my hand. Marks made by aluminum can be removed easily with a cold bluing solution or a bluing pen. Clean up with a oily toothbrush and Bobs your uncle. I do not recommend this trick on stainless slides as it will discolor the stainless..
I always encourage firearms enthusiasts and DYI bandits to do there own maintenance and light upgrades. sight installation is one of those things that with some ingenuity and a few proper tools you too can achieve success. Before you know it your friends will be coming to you for help with there sights. Never stop learning I say, “give it a shot” If you are local, and run into a snag, either in removal or installation, I am happy to help you get to the next step. Just bring me a small bribe or buy me a lunch and I can usually help you out on the spot.
The more time you spend with your firearm, either cleaning or upgrading helps you better understand the function and design, this enables you to spot potential problems as well as more efficient handling of failures to feed, fire and eject.
