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I have put my hands on a very rough Remington Rand slide topped, Auto Ordnance (West Hurley NY, cast) framed 1911A1 clone. It was ground by some kind of stone to remove the external finish and internally it was full of black paint. I bought this as a learning gun for dirt cheap as I would like to learn to do my own smith on my favorite pistols. I removed all of the black paint, lightly polished the outside and applied a few coats of cold blue just for rust prevention. The thumb safety would drop while engaged when I pulled the trigger, so I fitted a cheap colt commercial copy in the interim while decide which direction to go with this. The pistol passes all basic function checks and I have put 200 rds through it. I will not feed SWC ammo, I haven't tried JHPs as I plan to just shoot ball ammo at the moment. I have a few questions regarding what I am wanting to do to this thing. Sorry for the wall of text!

The slide has deep chatter marks, scratches etc. and the Remington Rand rollmark is partially ground away. I would like to remove the scratches/ chatter marks and clean up the lines of the slide. Is there a minimum slide thickness that I need to adhere to? I would estimate the damage depth to be less than .0100 deep but I'm not positive.

Since this has little collector's value for all it has been through, while I want to adhere to a 1911A1 style with it, I really want to send the slide to Novak for a front dovetail cut. I have found the Harrison Design serrated GI style site for the rear and I'd like to to go with a Novak brass bead front. I'm thinking a height of .180 for the front. Does anyone know if this combo will work as far as elevation?

The barrel/ feed ramp junction looks to be on the ragged edge of tolerances so my initial thoughts of throating and polishing the chamber area will probably not happen. It appears to be the original High Standard barrel that came with the slide. I plan to eventually fit another barrel to this slide as the original one looks to have had a homemade feed ramp dremeled into it and I don't want to push my luck.

The frame rails and ejector protrude from the rear of the slide junction about .125" Is there any issue with filing the frame back to match the slide rear?

I would like to make this a nice looking but well used pistol. Minimal blueing, keep the original GI grip safety controls/ Spur hammer etc. I plan to slowly replace the internals with Quality components and fit a new barrel, link and bushing to make it a tight shooter. I am $250 into this gun so far so I'm pretty ok with that.

Any knowledge/ wisdom is greatly appreciated!
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