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Just got it and don't want to screw it up by running 100 or 150 rounds thru it. How should I break in a new Ruger LW Commander?
What do the instructions/owner's manual recommend?Just got it and don't want to screw it up by running 100 or 150 rounds thru it. How should I break in a new Ruger LW Commander?
Good advice. All my aluminum framed 1911s have EGW steel frame ramp inserts for this very reason. I thought Ruger used titanium frame ramp inserts in their aluminum frames.If the . . . frame doesn’t have a steel ramped insert . . .
^this^Clean it, lube it, shoot it till ya get tired, clean it, lube it, repeat.
No disrespect to your posting intended but, this is not advisable when considering the metallurgical composition of an alloy frame if you want it to give a long lasting usable and accurate serviceability.I just use them as I any of my 1911s, I just run them wet and dirty for a while.
Why? You don't think a well lubed alloy framed 1911 can handle 500 rounds without cleaning? That's ridiculous. If they were that fragile or wear prone they never would have lasted on the market. I can't think of a single manufacturer that says their alloy frames aren't capable of handling any specific amount of use or round count without cleaning, or requires cleaning at specific intervals. On the other hand, they all recommend proper lubrication.No disrespect to your posting intended but, this is not advisable when considering the metallurgical composition of an alloy frame if you want it to give a long lasting usable and accurate serviceability.
It has a titanium ramp.If the barrel is not ramped or the frame doesn’t have a steel ramped insert in it I would not run a lot of hollow points thru it on a continuous basis.
The manual says nothing about 'break in', this is my 1st 1911 and there is a bit to learn.What do the instructions/owner's manual recommend?
They do. Thanks for your input!Good advice. All my aluminum framed 1911s have EGW steel frame ramp inserts for this very reason. I thought Ruger used titanium frame ramp inserts in their aluminum frames.
"Common sense" is the best path forward and the fact that you are thinking about this puts you light years ahead of the general public. I am sure your gun will give you years of service.The manual says nothing about 'break in', this is my 1st 1911 and there is a bit to learn.
This is actually one of the reasons I've switched to running Critical Defense in my 1911's. I know OP said that his 1911 is ramped and this speech won't apply, but they're the one JHP round that has never, ever, not even once gotten caught on the feed ramp of any of my 1911's. I can't even say that about Speer Gold Dots. Don't get me wrong: I think Speer (just as an example) makes a fine handgun round, and I'd be perfectly willing to trust my life to them in a ramped 1911. For a standard config, though. the Critical Defense bullet ogive is much closer to what you'd see from a FMJ round, and it seems to feed much more smoothly in all of my 1911's.If the barrel is not ramped or the frame doesn’t have a steel ramped insert in it I would not run a lot of hollow points thru it on a continuous basis.
Prove the gun functions well with ball or round nose Ammo for the first 150-200 rds. If you choose to carry the gun and want JHP bullets then try them after a while just to prove dependable function and see how they feed. For target and range stick with the ball ammo. It will last a long time that way. Lube it up and have fun.
This is actually one of the reasons I've switched to running Critical Defense in my 1911's. I know OP said that his 1911 is ramped and this speech won't apply, but they're the one JHP round that has never, ever, not even once gotten caught on the feed ramp of any of my 1911's. I can't even say that about Speer Gold Dots. Don't get me wrong: I think Speer (just as an example) makes a fine handgun round, and I'd be perfectly willing to trust my life to them in a ramped 1911. For a standard config, though. the Critical Defense bullet ogive is much closer to what you'd see from a FMJ round, and it seems to feed much more smoothly in all of my 1911's.
My $0.02 for what it's worth,
CC