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I have had a problem over the last year or so with specks of rust on the slide of my Colt lightweight Commander. Most of the rust has occurred on the side closest to my body. It has been my routine CCW for a few years and I hate not carrying it. I carry it OWB in a Blackhawk leather pancake holster. The gun is cleaned regularly with Hoppe's #9 synthetic and taken out of the holster at night. The gun was made in 2016.

Does anybody else have a problem with steel CCW guns rusting?

I have recently started using Safariland Breakfree CLP as a final wipe down after cleaning. Are there better products to prevent rust?

Thanks to all in advance.
 

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I had an issue with surface rust on the edges of the cylinder flutes of a S&W J frame when I ankle carried it in the summer. I tried different oils, ended up having the cylinder coated with NP3 and that took care of it. Assuming you don't want to have your slide refinished I'd try Eezox on it or Renaissance wax. Also, if it is rusting on the area that is covered by your holster I'd consider trying a different holster since moisture must be getting through the leather to cause the rust.
 

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Alkaline chemicals are used in the curing of leather, a little moisture and put it next to any metal and yup, RUST! I have used silicone wax to treat leather and metal waxes to treat handguns to help mitigate the rust issue. It's hard to determine the frequency since everyone's body chemistry is different.

Smiles,
 

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Probably a rag with some oil on it to wipe the CCW at the end of the day. Where I live it's not a problem, but I've seen people at gun shops who do that after a firearm is handled by a customer.
 

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Tin Metal Paint Packaging and labeling Tin can

Everything on the inside of the pistol is treated with this. Follow the directions and don't try to rush it or out think it.
Let it dry without wiping it off. It might take 24hrs. for it to dry but it leaves a lubricant that is dry to the touch.
Classic car Advertising Metal Kit car Cosmetics

Pull off the grips, take the slide off. Treat the slide and lower with this stuff. Again, the secret is in the directions on the can. The curing time between coats in direct sunlight is where it's at. Make time to do the whole process to the outside of the pistol at least 4 times...really.

These are state of the art chemicals that you will be using.

Now, this treatment will seal your pistol. It will make it slick so that cleaning, except for the bore, will be a simple wipe down.

It all smells good too
 

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I had an issue with surface rust on the edges of the cylinder flutes of a S&W J frame when I ankle carried it in the summer. I tried different oils, ended up having the cylinder coated with NP3 and that took care of it. Assuming you don't want to have your slide refinished I'd try Eezox on it or Renaissance wax. Also, if it is rusting on the area that is covered by your holster I'd consider trying a different holster since moisture must be getting through the leather to cause the rust.
Leaving pistols in leather for an extended period is one of the best ways to rust a gun. I've seen a fair amount of them
 

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I have had a problem over the last year or so with specks of rust on the slide of my Colt lightweight Commander. Most of the rust has occurred on the side closest to my body. It has been my routine CCW for a few years and I hate not carrying it. I carry it OWB in a Blackhawk leather pancake holster. The gun is cleaned regularly with Hoppe's #9 synthetic and taken out of the holster at night. The gun was made in 2016.

Does anybody else have a problem with steel CCW guns rusting?

I have recently started using Safariland Breakfree CLP as a final wipe down after cleaning. Are there better products to prevent rust?

Thanks to all in advance.
Lightweight Commanders have an alloy frame, not steel. I just use CLP Collector
 

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Here in GA, the Deep South, humidity, heat, and sweat area major problem, and cause of rusting. I carry in a leather holster too.
I have found that coating metal parts with a light coating of white Lithium grease works well, and stops the rust. At the hight of summer I usually coat my carry gun once per week, usually on a Sunday morning :D
 

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The OP could try a plastic car polish like Nu Finish, after removing all oils.
 

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I keep a rag in my dresser that has a little G96 on it. At the end of the day I give the pistol a quick wipe down. Never an issue. Silicone cloth work too, but I don't like the slimy feeling they give.
 

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Removing surface rust from blue is easy. I can post an article I wrote for Brownells. Saved a Model 54 (which I now own). Just takes a bit of patience and Kroil.
Removing & stopping rust, plus preserving your metal is all in one using a cloth to wipe
on Coconut & silicone oils. Kroil & Balistol are great penetrating cleaners however
they need care in use to prevent getting into everywhere.

When I received my Colt 1951, 1911 it had a light rust & staining that came off with
the cloths. A microfiber cloth buff & it was good to go. I use the MC to wipe down
my carry guns & have no further issues with corrosion problems

I have all but stopped using oils to preserve my guns, in fact I was using
Flitz Gun Wax to protect. Oils are wet & cause grime to stick to our guns. Wax
or PTFE are dry, & will repel Dirt & moisture from sticking to our finishes.
 

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Any idea on what wax would be safe on DW Duty Treatment?
Any finish that is like Parkerizing I would avoid wax how ever this just means it takes some brushing to buff the rougher surface, not that it would not protect. Wax unlike oil, will not
be displaced by water/sweat & salt. The coconut & silicone oils found in the MC are very
persistent, & will dry to touch & preserve the metal.
 
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