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I don't believe there's enough difference to cause any problems there most of your concern would be the barrel and the way The gun is built. I know people with that many rounds Through their Dan Wesson's without any issues. I am going to ask another submit today that has a hardness tester to indulge me once. At this point since I don't have a tester I'm just going from observation more than anything and trying to wrap my head around this Galling problem.
thanks for the quick response.....good to know. I have several thousands (???) of draws from a kydex holster with this pistol. The only "wear" is shiny areas. So far, I haven't seen any abnormal wear around the slide stop notch in the slide and such.

It took me about 700 to 1000 rounds to for the break-in plus feeling confident enough to use it in competition.

I find it funny when people say it is normal to need 300+ rounds to break in a DW. OK...well, after the failures during that break in period, how many more rounds do you need without failure to have confidence in it? Rhetorical. For me, it is several hundred. That makes it a 1,000 round break-in by my thinking.
 

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Discussion Starter #262
Update:

Finally got back out to the range today and I was able to put about 170 rounds through my now redeemed Dan Wesson Heritage without any failures! I would have forgiven a hiccup or two, but it didn’t give me any trouble at all. I am relieved to have some confidence in this pistol.

I shot 100 rounds of 230gr Sellier & Bellot and 70 assorted defensive rounds. The defensive ammo included Ranger T’s in 230gr and 230gr +p, Corbon DPX, Barnes TAC-XPD, Hornady critical Defense 220gr +p. No problems with any of those rounds.

As for lubrication, I did not end up using a grease. I used Gunbutter. I’ve been using Breakfree CLP and Gunbutter for a long time and I really don’t feel the need to use only the few types of lube mentioned in the manual(I recently switched to Slip EWL from Breakfree for CLP purposes, but that’s besides the point. I might switch to Tw25b after my Gunbutter runs out. The gunbutter was leaking out the back and sides, but not a ton and it seemed to work very well. It was still in place after the range session.

So, now I will put a few hundred more rounds through it and then I’ll think about having some work done on it. It will be refinished in a nitride type or DLC. If I do a nitride type I want to find the right process and place. There are a few different ways to do it and some are better than others. I don’t know how people are having issues with using CLP on their nitride finish. I’ve left CLP on Sigs with Nitrided slides and it doesn’t do a thing.

Anyways, case closed.
 

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thanks for the quick response.....good to know. I have several thousands (???) of draws from a kydex holster with this pistol. The only "wear" is shiny areas. So far, I haven't seen any abnormal wear around the slide stop notch in the slide and such.

It took me about 700 to 1000 rounds to for the break-in plus feeling confident enough to use it in competition.

I find it funny when people say it is normal to need 300+ rounds to break in a DW. OK...well, after the failures during that break in period, how many more rounds do you need without failure to have confidence in it? Rhetorical. For me, it is several hundred. That makes it a 1,000 round break-in by my thinking.
Back in the 70s and 80s, we considered break in for our series 70 competition guns to be 500 rounds.
 

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My SR1911, also a sample of 1, has been handled and shot by a couple of surprised RSO's that were surprised by fit and POA/POI and has over 1600 rds and the only issue was self-induced magazine failure (I was trying to make all of the magazines visually identical by changing all of the baseplates to match and the factory Ruger 8 rd magazine HATED that idea and locked the slide open; replacing the baseplate back to original fixed it). I will admit that the GS does not have a lot of spring tension and clicks slightly when shaken by the slide. :) I'm happy with mine.
Yeah I’ve noticed the wide swing in ruger sr1911’s fitment wise. Not saying I wouldn’t buy another either. I’m glad yours has been a great pistol.


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"and I really don’t feel the need to use only the few types of lube mentioned in the manual"

Uhhhhh.......so you intentionally avoided using the manufacturers recommended lube?
 
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Jim: I do too, cut with some ATF, to give it that reddish tint like some of the popular lubes.
All my 1911s and CZs run fine with it, including my 4 SS Dan Wesson 1911s.
 

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Discussion Starter #269 (Edited)
"and I really don’t feel the need to use only the few types of lube mentioned in the manual"

Uhhhhh.......so you intentionally avoided using the manufacturers recommended lube?
I used Fp10 the first time I shot it. That was recommended and it did not stop the gun from locking up. The manual actually says to use a high quality lubricant. Don’t remember the exact quote, but they do not say you have to use only the 3 or 4 lubricants mentioned. I used a high quality lubricant that is thick enough to keep a good barrier and stick, while also being not too thick for the tight fitment. I think it is a good choice for the job. Did not like FP10 (may be that I am biased due to the fact that my pistol seized like a rock while using it), but I may switch over to tw25b after my GB is done.
 

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Back in the 70s and 80s, we considered break in for our series 70 competition guns to be 500 rounds.
hmm....I don't recall that. My first 1911 was a Colt "Combat Govt" I bought new in the 1980's. I ran 100 rounds through it without issue and then it became my "duty" gun (armored car driver during my college years) and I called it good. I still have it!

Now, to be fair, it is NOT what you'd call a tightly fit gun in the least.
 

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After the guy I was talking to came back to the phone (he put me on hold for 5 minutes or so to ask the smith for more info) he gave me the info I wanted. A super fine stone on any high spots and some lapping compound . I then asked him what grease was used and he hesitated a bit before telling me it was milcomm. Sounded a bit unsure, so I was wondering if that is what milcomm looks like.
Also, I’m not saying that they left a bunch of compound on my gun. Just saying I’ve never dealt with that before so I wouldn’t know and I am being overly careful. It could be just grease that got black with carbon. Oil goes black after I rack the slide a few times, so not that weird.

Could be a product called Gunslick
 

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The “grease” pictured wasn’t Gunslick, nor was it just MilComm.
 

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Discussion Starter #273
Update:

Okay, well I am sorry to say that I spoke too soon. There is quite a bit of gouging on the top of the left frame rail and the left slide rail. I really started to notice it when I nicked my nitrile glove open on a burr that was sticking off one of the areas of gouging on the slide.

When I got my pistol back I looked at the rails and thought they looked alright. They had a lot of grease on them so it looked fine to me. When I cleaned it, I didn’t give a super close inspection. You can actually see it in the pictures I put on this thread when I first got it back. I guess I wasn’t really trying to look for it. It was a crazy busy week and I put it away until I was able to get out to the range. Before the range I put a good coating of gun butter on the rails and fired away, happy to see that my pistol seemed to be working well. Once I started getting the rails clean today, I notice my glove catch on a burr in the slide rail. Then I looked closer at the frame rail to see what might have created that and it became very apparent that there is a lot of gouging. Here are some pictures. Kind of hard to photograph.
1ED19B66-B1DD-4987-AB67-636FE2A1EE59.jpeg
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this seems unacceptable to me. Will they try to leave me with this and call it good because it currently functions? This should be replaced, shouldn’t it?
 

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Well that's not good, they will have to remove a good amount of material to make that smooth and even again, I would be wondering how tight your slide frame fit would be after that. On a side note, I use a little Harley Davidson axle grease on my slide/frame when I shoot in the desert when it is over 100 degrees.
 

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I'm surprised they would not smoothy finish those mating surfaces. Seems like leaving them rough looking like they did would create more chatter and create future problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #276
I’m pretty sure problems were already arising. I knocked a sharp burr off the gouge on the slide and I don’t believe that burr was there before I shot.
 

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Update:

Okay, well I am sorry to say that I spoke too soon. There is quite a bit of gouging on the top of the left frame rail and the left slide rail. I really started to notice it when I nicked my nitrile glove open on a burr that was sticking off one of the areas of gouging on the slide.

When I got my pistol back I looked at the rails and thought they looked alright. They had a lot of grease on them so it looked fine to me. When I cleaned it, I didn’t give a super close inspection. You can actually see it in the pictures I put on this thread when I first got it back. I guess I wasn’t really trying to look for it. It was a crazy busy week and I put it away until I was able to get out to the range. Before the range I put a good coating of gun butter on the rails and fired away, happy to see that my pistol seemed to be working well. Once I started getting the rails clean today, I notice my glove catch on a burr in the slide rail. Then I looked closer at the frame rail to see what might have created that and it became very apparent that there is a lot of gouging. Here are some pictures. Kind of hard to photograph. View attachment 604749 View attachment 604751 View attachment 604753 View attachment 604755 View attachment 604757 View attachment 604759
this seems unacceptable to me. Will they try to leave me with this and call it good because it currently functions? This should be replaced, shouldn’t it?
They need to replace that gun. I don’t think that is fixable. But I am not a gunsmith. I’d call them and email the pictures and tell them to either refund you’re money or replace the gun.


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When galling occurs, metal is removed from one part and deposited on the other.
The only way to clean it up is to remove the high spots. This is what they did.
The result is what you are seeing. If they removed enough material to remove the low spots, the slide would rattle like an old worn out USGI Colt.

This is not good for the DW crowd, another reason I don’t own one.
 
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