Some pointers from other Smiths or DIY

Discussion in '1911 Gunsmithing' started by Integrity Arms, Aug 9, 2020.

  1. Integrity Arms

    Integrity Arms 1911 Pistol Smith

    Mar 20, 2017
    I had a grip safety, EGW Jem fit to a Dan Wesson frame with a 20# recoil spring 19# main spring and totally flat FPS.. So after test fire I had some really heavy hammer marks in the grip safety cup. So far I have removed the marks, and knocked down the really sharp serrations on the hammer. Will a small radius on the FPS help? Or if I spring up the Mainspring to a standard 23#? I'm thinking this might be the direction to go.

    Any advice would be very much appreciated. I know sometime based on parts this can be unavoidable, but is there something else I can to to limit the chances of this marking again? The marks were pretty deep and they did happen while the pistol was in the ransom rest. AF284393-8AD6-487B-90D8-49BC5C03D0A4.jpeg 57B011F3-9744-4F1F-BDB3-EFA113B90D13.jpeg
    Last edited: Aug 9, 2020
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  2. Integrity Arms

    Integrity Arms 1911 Pistol Smith

    Mar 20, 2017
    I've only had this happen a few other times with a 10mm, and I removed the serrations on that hammer altogether. The pistol does act like it would still run well on a 22# recoil spring..

    This is also intentional using the high grip safety. Which I am sure has partially contributed to the issue..

  3. azguy1911

    azguy1911 I'm done buying guns, I'm just a bystander now

    Oct 22, 2015
    I can't help, but damn, that hammer must have been moving with some force to leave marks that deep
  4. seagiant

    seagiant Well-Known Member

    Nov 26, 2011
    You might of already fixed it with what you have done?
    I would leave the bottom of the FPS alone.
    I quite shooting the 10MM years ago because of the "snappy" recoil, but...
    Some people are power junkies!:o.o:
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  5. Rick McC.

    Rick McC. Well-Known Member

    May 3, 2013
    I’m sure that you’ve forgotten more about 1911s than I’ll ever know, but I’d say leave the bottom of the FPS flat and go to a 23 pound mainspring.
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  6. seagiant

    seagiant Well-Known Member

    Nov 26, 2011
    The problem with going to a heavier spring is how much is to much and how will that work with different ammo???

    Of course you don't want to beat the gun to death, but I think you would want it so it functions with all available commercial ammo, especially if it is a EDC weapon?
  7. Jason Burton

    Jason Burton Well-Known Member

    Apr 8, 2012
    Some hammer and grip safety combinations, due in part to the size and/or shape of the hammer, will cause the hammer to be "pinned" between the cartridge pick-up rail of the slide and the hammer pocket in the grip safety as the slide reciprocates. Modifying the hammer shape/profile can be a remedy.
  8. Integrity Arms

    Integrity Arms 1911 Pistol Smith

    Mar 20, 2017
    was going to be my first thing to address I thought with the flat FPS and being a cmdr that a lighter mainspring was in order and the Jem beaver tail cups sit a bit higher another piece of useful advice I got was to fit the face of the hammer to the disco rail.. which would shorten the over cocking as well..
    Last edited: Aug 9, 2020
    Rick McC. likes this.
  9. Integrity Arms

    Integrity Arms 1911 Pistol Smith

    Mar 20, 2017
    Thanks Jason I did take a little off the back of the radius and dulled up the cocking serrations on the hammer a bit, gonna check the interaction between the stripper rail and face of the hammer next and go to a 23# mainspring. I had a couple in the past I couldn't get out until I totally removed the serrations from a ringed hammer, but then it lightened the hammer a bit too much and I had to fit a lighter firing pin spring and heavier mainspring.

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