Some pointers from other Smiths or DIY

Discussion in '1911 Gunsmithing' started by Integrity Arms, Aug 9, 2020.

  1. Integrity Arms

    Integrity Arms 1911 Pistol Smith

    Mar 20, 2017
    I had a grip safety, EGW Jem fit to a Dan Wesson frame with a 20# recoil spring 19# main spring and totally flat FPS.. So after test fire I had some really heavy hammer marks in the grip safety cup. So far I have removed the marks, and knocked down the really sharp serrations on the hammer. Will a small radius on the FPS help? Or if I spring up the Mainspring to a standard 23#? I'm thinking this might be the direction to go.

    Any advice would be very much appreciated. I know sometime based on parts this can be unavoidable, but is there something else I can to to limit the chances of this marking again? The marks were pretty deep and they did happen while the pistol was in the ransom rest. AF284393-8AD6-487B-90D8-49BC5C03D0A4.jpeg 57B011F3-9744-4F1F-BDB3-EFA113B90D13.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Aug 9, 2020
    villdetwink and Jimhoag like this.
  2. Integrity Arms

    Integrity Arms 1911 Pistol Smith

    Mar 20, 2017
    I've only had this happen a few other times with a 10mm, and I removed the serrations on that hammer altogether. The pistol does act like it would still run well on a 22# recoil spring..

    This is also intentional using the high grip safety. Which I am sure has partially contributed to the issue..
     

  3. azguy1911

    azguy1911 I'm done buying guns, I'm just a bystander now

    Oct 22, 2015
    I can't help, but damn, that hammer must have been moving with some force to leave marks that deep
     
  4. seagiant

    seagiant Well-Known Member

    549
    Nov 26, 2011
    Hi,
    You might of already fixed it with what you have done?
    I would leave the bottom of the FPS alone.
    I quite shooting the 10MM years ago because of the "snappy" recoil, but...
    Some people are power junkies!:o.o:
     
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  5. Rick McC.

    Rick McC. Well-Known Member

    801
    May 3, 2013
    I’m sure that you’ve forgotten more about 1911s than I’ll ever know, but I’d say leave the bottom of the FPS flat and go to a 23 pound mainspring.
     
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  6. seagiant

    seagiant Well-Known Member

    549
    Nov 26, 2011
    Hi,
    The problem with going to a heavier spring is how much is to much and how will that work with different ammo???

    Of course you don't want to beat the gun to death, but I think you would want it so it functions with all available commercial ammo, especially if it is a EDC weapon?
     
  7. Jason Burton

    Jason Burton Well-Known Member

    614
    Apr 8, 2012
    Some hammer and grip safety combinations, due in part to the size and/or shape of the hammer, will cause the hammer to be "pinned" between the cartridge pick-up rail of the slide and the hammer pocket in the grip safety as the slide reciprocates. Modifying the hammer shape/profile can be a remedy.
     
  8. Integrity Arms

    Integrity Arms 1911 Pistol Smith

    Mar 20, 2017
    This
    was going to be my first thing to address I thought with the flat FPS and being a cmdr that a lighter mainspring was in order and the Jem beaver tail cups sit a bit higher another piece of useful advice I got was to fit the face of the hammer to the disco rail.. which would shorten the over cocking as well..
     
    Last edited: Aug 9, 2020
    Rick McC. likes this.
  9. Integrity Arms

    Integrity Arms 1911 Pistol Smith

    Mar 20, 2017
    Thanks Jason I did take a little off the back of the radius and dulled up the cocking serrations on the hammer a bit, gonna check the interaction between the stripper rail and face of the hammer next and go to a 23# mainspring. I had a couple in the past I couldn't get out until I totally removed the serrations from a ringed hammer, but then it lightened the hammer a bit too much and I had to fit a lighter firing pin spring and heavier mainspring.
     

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