[Icky Thump]

I have a few questions for any who might be familiar w/ Dan Wesson products/services available.

I recently purchased a DW A2 commander (new/retailer) and could almost not be happier. Truly love everything about it, save for a small issue(s). The thumb safety could stand to be blended more than it is. Protrudes and bites slightly. Not a huge issue as I can adjust my grip to avoid the bite but is annoying and Ive had far lesser 1911's where this wasn't an issue.

The recoil signature on this commander seems unusually "snappy". Ive had other commander, all steel and Officer sized, alloy and steel alike that didn't seem to have such an exaggerated snap.

Will DW re-blend/work my thumb safety. Either under warranty or paid services? How is their CS/Warranty services?

As far as the recoil issue, it is not something I would present to DW as an issue, I have a few ideas on how to mitigate..just wanted some feedback as to if anyone else has noticed this on this particular.

I was/am so happy with the A2 commander that I purchased a full size/govt'. I'd like some work done on this. Sights, flat MSH, high ride grip safety and maybe front strap checkering and or some combination of all that +/-.

Will DW perform this work, as paid services? If so, I am G2G with taht or would it be better advised to seek other services..NightHawk, WC or other recommended Custom Shops..?

Apologies if this is in the wrong section or if these or similar questions have been proposed prior. I also understand a phone call to DW could answer most of these questions but I thought Id ask the local junkies first..

Any insight would be most appreciated.

~Patrick

 

[Dwe]

I’m sure Keith at DW will take care of it for a price, however you might be better off buying a Wilson BP safety and finding a local Smith to install it, or better yet
learn to install it your self.

 

[Icky Thump]

Thanks for the fast reply, Dwe.

Ive no problem paying for the service(s). Just want them done right. I've had less than pleasant experience w/ some local services..would not want to bet on a "hit/miss" with this pair. Would rather the manufacturer perform the service or a trusted, well known outfit..

And while I'm all in favor of "learn/DIY"..again, I'm not prepared to start breaking eggs with this pair...I'll by a RI and get the torch/face sheild out at a later date..

 

[FrankB]

I'm not sure if I understand where the thumb safety is biting you. If the safety is off and is pinching you in the web of the hand while you are firing the gun then the safety is not fit correctly and should be fixed by the manufacturer at no cost.

 

[Icky Thump]

Yes, FrankB, you understand correctly. And that's how I would understand the solution to that specific. Just wanted some insight on how a warranty claim to DW such as this might play out, as I'm new on the brand.

Thanks KS for the reply

 

[Badabing11]

I had some work done on my PM9 by DW. I thought their work was very good and pricing reasonable.

I did have the front fiber optic sight replaced. No one made a gold bead fs low enough to be comparable to the height of the fiber optic . John Harrison made one for me.

 

[FrankB]

I'll bet if you call Keith at DW he will send you a call tag and make it right. You can also order up some custom work while the gun is there and they are paying the shipping.

 

[Icky Thump]

I had some work done on my PM9 by DW. I thought their work was very good and pricing reasonable.

I did have the front fiber optic sight replaced. No one made a gold bead fs low enough to be comparable to the height of the fiber optic . John Harrison made one for me.

Thanks, Badabing..that's what I'm looking to hear..thanks.

I had a brass bead installed recently on a 2012 SA RO tar get (Bomar style combat rear/adjustable (almost didn't have the work done as the pistol was perfect, had it dialed in spot on)..just wanted to be able to pick up the front sight a little quicker (starting to shoot in some local competitions)..without changing the front sight or painting...worked was performed by a smith that had installed a brass bead on a 6' S&W model 19-3 Triple T(partrige front ) and the work was flawless...not so on the SA...all screwed up to the point that I don't have the adjustment range to change the POI anymore..bead sits higher than top edge of sight...sight is now way up off slide..daylight between bottom of sight/slide...daylight in dovetail..sight dovetail is now bent...looks like it came out of a different shop/or an apprentice performed the work..no response to date since Ive called about the issue..prior to this last Christmas...so, I'm a little hesitant of late..

May send this one right to Nighthawk..as well as the govt A2...I half planned to make a base gun out of this one originally...but, really don't want that much changed and if I can have DW preform the work competently. ..I'd rather that on this one..

Thank you for the response, sincerely.

 

[Icky Thump]

I'll bet if you call Keith at DW he will send you a call tag and make it right. You can also order up some custom work while the gun is there and they are paying the shipping.

Thanks, FrankB

 

[JM44]

Their prices are reasonable but you still likely have to pay for it and shipping. They are usually quick and do a good job but it is rather annoying to pay for something that should’ve been done right to begin with. I am not too thrilled by DW customer service (policies) to be honest but I guess I’ve just been spoiled by WC and NH over the years...

 

[Icky Thump]

@JM44..thanks for the heads up. I'm ok with paying although I do understand your point..the only issue that might fall under warranty is the T safety...and this issue is slight, not major..again, I do understand the principal...maybe I'm getting old and soft...and most of the work I'm looking to do is by choice/preference...I just want the work done right as requested the first time..I've no problem paying for the service(s)..Money and guns can be replaced/replenished...my time is the more valued commodity..

Thanks again, man..

 

[barmandr]

Have DW do it. Any other brand won't match the DW finish. Close, but not a perfect match. I sent my PMC in and had it duty treated and it came out great. The thumb safety I sent had been blended prior to sending it in. If you can blend it yourself, do it and then have DW duty treat it. They may also have safeties in stock that are already blended since they are putting them on their newer guns now.

 

[FrankB]

That’s a good point about the finish. Here is my CCO after DW installed and refinished a Wilson Bulletproof ambi safety. Perfect match.

 

[Icky Thump]

Have DW do it. Any other brand won't match the DW finish. Close, but not a perfect match. I sent my PMC in and had it duty treated and it came out great. The thumb safety I sent had been blended prior to sending it in. If you can blend it yourself, do it and then have DW duty treat it. They may also have safeties in stock that are already blended since they are putting them on their newer guns now.

I would very much like DW to do the work..As stated, new to the brand and more than a little impressed. Honestly believe they're one of the best values out there right now. While I don't consider DW a "budget" product...compared to what else is out there right now at similar price points, DW exceeds by a good margin and to get better, even moderately, you'd have to go full/semi (base gun + work) custom at 2,3x the price..

My next purchase is another DW... already been decided...just the small matter of allocating the loot at this point..what to move down the road is the last decision to make..

And yes, the finish match is a factor. The duty finish looks great, have only heard positive thus far...I am kinda in love with the matte blue finish on these A2..looks a little richer, if not as tough as parkerized and a I think it will wear/"patina" tough looking..Pretty cool imo..preferences vary, I understand...I very much like the distressed finish DW does as well..not sure if that would be an option on an all carbon pistol...one of the bigger deciding factors why I chose the A2..

I very much appreciate the feedback, fellas..!

 

[Steve in Allentown]

The recoil signature on this commander seems unusually "snappy".

The slide must travel fully to the rear in order to insure correct functioning so there's only so much you can do to reduce the snap. With that in mind, there are a couple of ways to mitigate the snap both of which serve to slow the rearward velocity of the slide. Increasing the recoil spring weight is not the optimum method.

• Fit a flat bottom firing pin stop.
  
  This reduces the amount of leverage the slide has when pushing the hammer back and will rob energy from the slide's movement thus slowing it. A very slight radius at the bottom of the stop is all you want. The larger the radius the less effective it will be at slowing the slide. Also, relieving the area of the stop above the firing pin hole so that the hammer face doesn't contact the stop above the firing pin hole will further reduce the leverage. Harrison makes one with this feature. If you use an EGW or Wilson, you'll have to file it yourself.
  
  
• Use a stronger mainspring (hammer spring).
  
  As we all know the standard weight mainspring (hammer spring) is 23lbs. Wolff sells extra power springs in these weights: 25, 26, 28, 30, and 34lbs. The mainspring (hammer spring) has a dramatic effect on slowing down the slide with no substantial downside other than the effort it takes to rack the slide.

You can do one or both of these. I recommend doing the flat bottom firing pin stop first followed by live fire testing. If that doesn't get you where you want to be add an extra power mainspring. That should do the trick.

Standard weight recoil spring for a Commander is 18lbs. I run 16lb recoil springs in mine coupled with EGW flat bottom firing pin stops. This combination is perfect for me using standard pressure factory 230gr FMJ.

 

[Badabing11]

@JM44..thanks for the heads up. I'm ok with paying although I do understand your point..the only issue that might fall under warranty is the T safety...and this issue is slight, not major..again, I do understand the principal...maybe I'm getting old and soft...and most of the work I'm looking to do is by choice/preference...I just want the work done right as requested the first time..I've no problem paying for the service(s)..Money and guns can be replaced/replenished...my time is the more valued commodity..

Thanks again, man..

I had some warranty work done at DW . They paid the freight. I added a custom work request to be done after they agreed to the warranty work.

They had no problem still covering the freight as warranty work was legit.

 

[Icky Thump]

The slide must travel fully to the rear in order to insure correct functioning so there's only so much you can do to reduce the snap. With that in mind, there are a couple of ways to mitigate the snap both of which serve to slow the rearward velocity of the slide. Increasing the recoil spring weight is not the optimum method.

• Fit a flat bottom firing pin stop.
  
  This reduces the amount of leverage the slide has when pushing the hammer back and will rob energy from the slide's movement thus slowing it. A very slight radius at the bottom of the stop is all you want. The larger the radius the less effective it will be at slowing the slide. Also, relieving the area of the stop above the firing pin hole so that the hammer face doesn't contact the stop above the firing pin hole will further reduce the leverage. Harrison makes one with this feature. If you use an EGW or Wilson, you'll have to file it yourself.
  
  
• Use a stronger mainspring (hammer spring).
  
  As we all know the standard weight mainspring (hammer spring) is 23lbs. Wolff sells extra power springs in these weights: 25, 26, 28, 30, and 34lbs. The mainspring (hammer spring) has a dramatic effect on slowing down the slide with no substantial downside other than the effort it takes to rack the slide.

You can do one or both of these. I recommend doing the flat bottom firing pin stop first followed by live fire testing. If that doesn't get you where you want to be add an extra power mainspring. That should do the trick.

Standard weight recoil spring for a Commander is 18lbs. I run 16lb recoil springs in mine coupled with EGW flat bottom firing pin stops. This combination is perfect for me using standard pressure factory 230gr FMJ.

This is excellent information and most appreciated..thank you for the post.

I'm planning to change/play with the recoil spring wieghts..I would have thought a heaver, 18lb+ would be the direction..seems I had that backwards as you've reccomended 16lbs..What have I got figured wrong? Return to battery energy?

I also considered a heavy/tungsten guide rod although I'd rather not if it can be sorted otherwise..prefer GI guide rod set up.

I had no idea about a flat bottom firing pin stop..that is brilliant..

Thank you again, @Steve in Allentown

I'm just outside of Stroudsburg, PA

Thanks again @Badabing11. I wish to send two pistols..the Commander for the blend/finish and the Gov't for sights/MSH and maybe high ride grip safety..would be nice to have shipping paid but it won't be an issue whatsoever if I've to pay for the post and return..Will be happy enough to have the work done proper at DW, I had no reason to believe it wouldn't but it's nice to confirm ..very comfortimg to hear good reports.

 

[Steve in Allentown]

I'm planning to change/play with the recoil spring wieghts..I would have thought a heaver, 18lb+ would be the direction..seems I had that backwards as you've reccomended 16lbs..What have I got figured wrong? Return to battery energy?

The standard recoil spring weight for a Commander is 18lbs.

As you allude to, the recoil spring stores energy as its coils compress due to the slide moving rearward. That energy is expended as the spring then pushes the slide forward. For correct functioning of the pistol the recoil spring has to push the slide forward fast enough that the resulting momentum will overcome the various friction points impeding the slide's forward movement, strip a round from the magazine, and push the barrel fully into battery.

The idea is to use a spring that is strong enough to do these things reliably but not use a spring that is stronger than it needs to be.

The reason is whatever energy is left after the barrel goes into battery will be applied against the barrel's lower lugs and the slide stop cross pin. This will cause unnecessary wear and tear. More obviously, it will cause the nose of the pistol to drop down below the target thus increasing the time it takes to get back on target and fire another round.

One more thing about recoil springs especially in shorter than 5" 1911s. Short 1911s have a shorter recoil stroke than full size 5" 1911s. This means there is less time available for the magazine spring to push the next round in the mag up into solid contact with the feed lips so that the onrushing slide can engage the cartridge rim and push the next round out of the mag. The lighter the recoil spring, the more time there is for the magazine spring to do its job.

I always use the lightest possible recoil spring consistent with 100% functioning.

The video below may be of interest:

 

[pcar157]

Not to hijack this thread but big thank you to "Steve in Allentown" for all this info. Much appreciated, I have learned a lot. 1911 Addicts rock!!!
By the way, Steve, is the "Allentown" PA or NJ?

 

[Steve in Allentown]

By the way, Steve, is the "Allentown" PA or NJ?

I'm in the semi-free state of PA not the people's republic of NJ.