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Turgid member
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Help! I bought a gun I know nothing of and I need to get up to speed.
The gun is a 99%, 10/2013 build SA Pro so little use.

I assume right away I will want to lube everything and give the lube time to migrate. I have some Mil-Comm Revolver Blast which is designed to penetrate hard to reach parts which is my plan A.
The grips allow access to the mainspring housing pin. Should I pull the grips to see what is going on under them?

I neglected to confirm with the seller if it is a hard fit gun. It's my understanding Pros are hard fit, is that correct? If so do I slather it in good lube and shoot 500 rounds before attempting taking it down?
I really need advice on this issue.

The Black-T coating. This will be a shooter but I want to give it every advantage holster wise. This is not a pretty gun so I'll hold off on a kangaroo-sharkskin holster till I get my polished blue Alchemy 1911.
Does the Pro finish stand up better to leather or kydex?

I should have possession in a couple weeks so now all I have is questions.
All responses welcome.
Thanks
 

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All guns, in my experience, wear better in leather than kydex. My pro from around the same build time has north of 30k rounds through it. I did not to any special “break in” on it. Just cleaned it, lubed it and shot it.

The black t is not a great wearing finish, in my experience with several guns. But it looks better with some age to it. Both of these guns are black t finished. But both have several draws under their belt.

my suggestion, just lube it up and shoot away.
A908F770-1B63-4326-B992-39D60D075999.jpeg
 

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Clean, lube, shoot. Big question would be a rough idea how many rounds fired through it?
I ask as the Pro or the one I had was hard fit. So it should need a few rounds fired to get it to settle in so to say, S/A Pros are accurate, reliable, and great pistols. Lots of info on them with a great pedigree to boot.

Oh and congrats!


I updated here to a link on addicts good read.
https://www.1911addicts.com/threads/springfield-pro-review-20-000-rounds.52657/
 

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I take it you bought this one from classifieds.

https://www.1911addicts.com/threads/springfield-professional.88675/

That looks like a great gun. Just field strip it, clean it if needed, lube, and shoot. Don't worry too much about the finish. If you shoot and carry it a lot and do not like the well used look you can always refinish it with something like DLC that is more durable.
 

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The grips allow access to the mainspring housing pin. Should I pull the grips to see what is going on under them?
You sound like a new 1911 user. It's not a fine piece of china. You can't break it.

You should use this as an opportunity to learn how to do a full detail strip. Every part, every pin, every spring, and every screw needs to be removed. There are lots of You Tube videos that will show you how to do it. Once you have it completely disassembled do a thorough cleaning of every nook and cranny. Q-Tips are your friends. Then a light coat of synthetic oil on everything.

Since this is a hard fit pistol you should hold the slide so the barrel is out of battery before you rotate the barrel bushing to remove the recoil spring plug. Rotating the barrel bushing while the pistol is in battery will unnecessarily wear the carefully fit bushing.

Alternately, you can remove the entire slide assembly without removing the bushing and recoil spring. Then you can remove the recoil spring from the back instead of the front, push the barrel forward, and then rotate and remove the barrel bushing. You'll see both ways demonstrated in the You Tube videos.

Once you get good at doing detail strips and assembly, shoot the snot out of it.
 

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Turgid member
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
No, not my first. My second. Hah!
My angst concerning my first nice gun is showing, I guess. I don't want to do something unnecessary or stupid to this Pro.
I have a TRP that I have made a few improvements, including a successful trigger job, on.
I destroyed a grip bushing while removing it on my TRP and I'm wondering if there is any (dis)advantage to removing the grips for cleaning if the grip panels have the cut away.
edit: Much ado about nothing I suspect.
 

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A must have



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No, not my first. I have a TRP that I have made a few improvements, including a successful trigger job, on. I destroyed a grip bushing while removing it on my TRP and I'm wondering if there is any (dis)advantage to removing the grips for cleaning if the grip panels have the cut away.
You're well on your way over the learning curve.

Yeah, it's never a pleasant surprise when a grip bushing comes out with the screw. When that has happened to me I grab a rag to act as a cushion between the plier jaws and the bushing threads. Then I grab the threads with the pliers firmly but not enough to deform the delicate threads and unscrew the screw from the bushing. Then I clean the bushing threads and their corresponding threads in the frame, put a drop of red loctite on the threads, screw the bushing back into the frame, and let it sit overnight before putting the grips back on.

These days I use Challis grip bushings, screws, and O-rings exclusively. No more bushing surprises.

I always detail strip any new-to-me firearm that crosses my bench no matter if it was just bought brand new at the local gun store. They all get cleaned and lubed before their first range session without exception. You never know what you'll find and I'd rather err on the side of caution.
 
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