Got mine in the other day... pictures are of it on my Glock 30S, as it is what I will be using it with. If you buy one, check and see if the E-ring is installed. Don’t know if Streamlight doesn’t put it in so you can swap the key, but never had to install one on any of my other lights. Two come with it, as well as the tool to install/remove them, and the keys. Figured I’d mention it, as I unscrewed it all the way when I was looking it over. The screw isn’t finger tightenable anymore. I do like it is flushed, but a nickel is probably your best tool for the light. Definitely have to thank Medtronic for instilling four years of carrying a nickel for the battery compartment of my insulin pump, then switching to a design on the belt clip. Guess I’ll just keep that nickel in my pocket for when I carry the TLR-7. Output is pretty good. My old light on the 30S was a TLR-3, so it is a big jump in Lumens. I also like the front battery loading, which likely would be beneficial for those going with the TLR-8. The lockout is nice, but it is just something I doubt I’ll ever use. Waterproof... it is nice, but never had an issue with the older designs that weren’t. The switch... I’m definitely up in the air on. It isn’t the traditional Streamlight switch that I love. But I was looking at the XC1, due to size. Hoping this switch will do me well, but I do see some potential issues. I unlocked the strobe feature, and wasn’t sure how to in the instructions. I thought you had to turn the light on/off ten times, whereas you just hit the button quick as s***, and hold on the 10th time. When I was trying to turn it on/off, I did notice myself outrunning the switch (didn’t turn on/off when it should have due to press). Something I need to train on the light and see if it is an issue (doubt it, as the switch to strobe didn’t cause any issue), so just something to consider. My other concern will be holster interaction on the switches. Remember, you can push the switch forward or in to turn the light on. Pulling out of an holster can at least do the forward, and would likely be quick enough to turn the light on constant instead of momentary. With that being said, here are some comparison pictures. My old light to the new... both I put the end of the frame at 3”, for reference. If you have a TLR-3, might be able to get some comparison before buying. And some to show profile on my 30S. The 30S uses a 30SF frame, and a slide from the 36... which is close to a 9mm/.40 slide. Again, mainly for comparison. One thing I hated about the TLR-3 was how it was positioned. You have three keys, and the one for the Glock had a lot of room between the light and the trigger guard. The TLR-7 is pretty damn close to touching the guard. Plus, you have six keys to figure out what will work with your gun. I see this being a big hit for quite a few pistol platforms due to differences in rails among manufacturers. Have a single slot, once you see which size fits (1913 or universal), you have three positions to get the light in the right spot (I know there are 1913-1 through 1913-3... figure the same for universal, but spare keys are in a bag, locked in my safe).