Yes, but it’s less than ideal. A lot has changed. Specifically their mount system is a bit archaic. It’s robust, sure. But newer, better mounts, exist that have advantages.

 

I use the full size 7.62 rc2 on 300BO, 300hamr, 556.

The Reddit neck beards will get upset with decibels but I care more about durability. This was also before fast turn arounds with tax stamps.

it does lock you into muzzle devices…. Again the Reddit neck beards are going to come for you if you mention ‘warcomp’ but the interface is so popular that B&T started supporting them…. Opening you up to cheaper options if needed.

 

Ehhhh when a muzzle device is so susceptible to carbon lock that the manufacturer advises you to shoot it off…that’s indicative of being behind the times.

I have a RC2 on my 5.56 gun and have used RC2 5.56/7.62 suppressors professionally for years. I’m not hating on them for no reason, it’s just that there is a reason almost every manufacturer switched to tapered thread mounts after Q developed them. I’m getting ready to purchase a rc2 mini as well, but that’s because all my 5.56 guns have Surefire mounts.

Op, figure out what is important to YOU. Don’t listen to randos on the internet. For example, my priorities in order of importance are as follows:
1. Weight
2. Poi shift
3. Mount (not carbon locking)
4. Decibel reduction
5. Length

Make your own list and start figuring out what cans have best in class and start looking for overlap.

 

I have had SF cans back to the K days.

I currently have a 7.62 rc2 (full size) and a 5.56 rc3. My 7.62 does duty on 5.56 / 3slow8 / 3WinMag.

I am most interested in shift and accuracy - much of the secret sauce on that is related to a consistent lockup of the mount. DB reduction is not nearly as high on my list of wants. The SF products are pretty quiet, but if your chasing DBs, there are others. Flash (or lack of) is a product of design of the internals of the can, the mount, barrel length, and the powder. These are low back pressure cans. I can not say I notice any real difference shooting an SRT or THOR 3WinMag cans vs the 7.62 in my 30 cals. However the other two are direct thread mount, not low back pressure, and will not work on my SR25.

I have set up my 18" LPR with the 7.62 b/c the tone is more pleasing to my ear (deeper) than a 5.56 can. The downside is it is longer and weighs more.

Pay attention to what mount you need to use the 7.62 on your 5.56 scar - find the mount and buy a couple. My experience with the K cans says as the cans age they quit producing mounts. I think an old K mount is worth @ $500 today.

 

YES. I have 2 7.62RC Suppressors and they run great on 5.56mm weapons.

 

Ive been real happy with my Surefire 7.62 mini. Originally had it on a .308 sbr but moved it to a .300blk sbr.

Feeling kinda ancient with my AAC 51T mounts 😬

 

I have a couple older 308 rifles that came with Surefire socom mounts so I was really wanting to be able to use the 762rc2 on across the board. I don’t shoot those rifles often at all but it’d be nice to use with them. The suppressor will be spending most of its life on the scar.

There is the concern of back pressure though. FN and other owners say that if you’re going ti suppress the 15p, use lower back pressure suppressors. I believe I read that the rc2’s, in general, are all semi-low back pressure cans.

Would running a 762rc2 on a 5.56 firearm mean that there is less back pressure because the volume of the can is greater?

I sincerely appreciate the responses. Having them in a thread I can continuously read is incredibly beneficial to me.

 

Simply having a larger diameter hole for the projectile to pass through lowers the back pressure. This may or may not increase the signature associated sound or flash. However in general SF cans are low back pressure.

 

I'd suggest thinking about what you expect from your suppressor? Are you after noise reduction? Flash suppression? Something else?

A 7.5" 5.56 isn't going to be pleasant with just about any suppressor. I have multiple SF can's but each is caliber dedicated as I feel it offers a better overall experience.

 

I honestly don’t have much of a list. I just want to make sure the 762rc2 will not be damaged from the 7.5” 556. I’ve spent countless hours going over a list and I’ve determined that I’m going to go the 762rc2 route if it will not get destroyed by the short barrel. The reason for a short list is that I have a list of suppressors I plan to g pick up after.

Ive seen people running 556rc2’s and the people I’ve spoken to say it’s fine, but Surefire says the rc2 will get damaged. Surefire just told me the 762 can will handle 10” 5.56 barrels but has not been tested with 7.5” barrels. I think it should be ok….

 

Do you know why/how it could get damaged? They have minimum barrel length for a reason, I’d make sure I chose a can that was designed for your barrel length.

 

Define damage. An inconel blast baffle is going to hold up better than pretty much anything else for heat. You should talk to SF about mounts and how they interact with the blast baffle. Ask them about running one of their 2 chamber brakes and how that improves the life of the blast baffle. Ask them if the baffle were to erode over the course of several thousand rounds / a couple of 7.5 barrels - if they would rebuild it. Ask them if they have a minimum barrel length for .300 Win (IIRC it is 16") - put that in perspective against the heat generated by your 7.5" 5.56 in an overbored can with @ 1/3 of the powder charge. Not an issue. Real advice - short guns are much more fun with short, light, durable cans. If it were me I'd buy a new RC3 and be done with it. The difference between the rc2 v 3 at the ear isn't enough to care about. Regardless of 20 cal or 30 cal - at 400 yrds and more, all one hears is a supersonic crack of the projectile. That said - with a 7.5 you're going to have some flash.

And fouled / stuck mounts b/c of carbon - that is an issue for every mount - even single point (screw on) cans. I might spend 60 seconds with an SS brush every couple of outings. I have used a plastic mallet 2x to remove one when I have been lazy and let them cool while heavily fouled. I shot off a fouled one 1x just to try it. It is a maintenance matter, but it's never been an issue for me.

 

And fouled / stuck mounts b/c of carbon - that is an issue for every mount - even single point (screw on) cans. I might spend 60 seconds with an SS brush every couple of outings. I have used a plastic mallet 2x to remove one when I have been lazy and let them cool while heavily fouled. I shot off a fouled one 1x just to try it. It is a maintenance matter, but it's never been an issue for me.

That is simply not true. Tapered threads have remedied that issue and the tolerances/design that prevent that, also contribute to little to no POI shift. Here is one example, notice the threads are carbon free

As far as erosion/baffle wear and the Surefire. If they say 10” is minimum for 5.56, I doubt they would warranty for damage occurred from shorter. How/could they know? I dunno. At the end of the day, 5.56 suppresses horribly, so I’d opt for a lighter can/simpler mount before chasing “most quiet” that still sucks suppressed. Especially on a shorter build.

 

I run a SF 300 SPS on a 10” scar 16 and 13” scar 17. Combined I probably have 6k rounds from those 2 guns and another 7k rounds from 16”+ 308’s and 5.56’s. The can looks like hell but the first baffle is holding up ok. I think the SF cans are good for at least 25k plus rounds and probably 50k rounds.

 

This is what I like seeing and I feel validated

 

I am not 100% about what damage could be caused honestly. A baffle strike is pretty concerning but I don’t think that is what Surefire is referring to. I guess I’m not as far along as I thought I was with figuring things out quite yet. The more I dig into things it seems like every gun needs a dedicated can.

 

I have 2 RC2’s. They carbon lock like a mofo using the surefire brake. As in 30 shots and it’s difficult to remove. I’ve read putting Alg Go Juice on the muzzle device remedies this. I haven’t tried that yet.

That being said, I love my Griffin taper mounts. Easy on and off. No carbon on any of the threads. I have a Griffin Explorr .300 I’m waiting on. Would be a nice nearly do all rifle can. Gets great reviews and is lightweight.

 

Best of luck OP.

 

Carbon locking can be a problem. What I’ve found is that if you remove the suppressor while it’s still hot you won’t have much of a problem. Leave it on, let it cool, you might.

You are likely going to run into conflicting information everywhere you go. All of my cans sound the same on semiautomatic rifles with supersonic ammo, loud, not hearing safe. Same cans on a bolt action are hearing safe, pleasant sounding.

If you change the muzzle device your results also change. The 3 prong is probably the the most pleasant of the bunch. If I could go back in time I’d run only 3 prongs. War comp doesn’t seal well and neither do the breaks. They foul up the mounting surface requiring more maintenance and are louder because more gas is escaping between the mount and suppressor. This is all my own personal experience running it on a bolt gun, scar’s, M1a’s, AR’s and 1 AK.

I chose Surefire for these reasons… I use 1 can for a bunch of different rifles. The can returns to zero every time it’s is taken off and put back on which is a huge selling point for me. It’s quiet enough that my ears won’t bleed if I fire less than 4 rounds in hunting situations. I usually shoot 25%-50% tighter groups when it’s installed (definitely just me being a princess and hating recoil/noise) It’s robust and can take a lot of abuse. There are mounts for most platforms. The RC2 could very easily be quieter and have less back pressure.

I stick with Surefire because of sunken cost. At $125+ a mount I don’t want to do that again. I’ve been around other cans that cost less are quieter, lighter and can take the same abuse. They aren’t the best at anything, they aren’t the worst. I don’t regret the purchase and will likely add a 7.62 Mini and RC2 some time in the future.

Just take the leap. I started with an absolute garbage 1st suppressor because it was “mil spec” and made “specifically for M1a’s”. It had a terrible, loose mounting system and increased group size by 50%. It was “clone correct” before that was a thing and a terrible idea. Any of the current name brands will probably be better than that.