[Yosemiteken]

I have another post about my nephew and his new Tisas 1911 Tanker. I am following up with this one to kind of tell what I found and ask a few questions, and maybe someone can answer a question I did not know I had. I will be comparing what I find in his to my Ruger 1911 Full size (5") The Tanker is a Commander style 4.25" barrel.
I had him take it apart and clean the insides of the shipping lubricants then properly lube it When taking it apart I noticed a few things that seemed, for lack of a better word, "cheap". I know it is a low end piece, but a great starting weapon for a 18 yo first gun. So, the guide rod & spring felt really weak and light; mine is a lot stiffer and firmer. Not near as strong or durable, definitely smaller gauge wire/spring. The guide rod and spring plug are both quite shorter than mine even for a 4.25" barrel. the magazine spring feels weak and flimsy; the metal sides feel like I could bend/crush it with one hand. And the trigger has to be close to 10 pounds pull. You really have to yank the trigger. I like my Ruger's, supposed to be, 4lb trigger; but all the reviewers say its more like 5.5lbs. I say over 10lbs on his, because my wife's CA .32 mag with double action is supposed to be close to 9lbs DA, and 3.5lbs SA use. But once you pulled the trigger; the gun felt awesome, nice recoil, slide action and loading. worked flawlessly with 1 jam out of the first 58 bullets we ran through it, and it was the next to last round shot monday. I was impressed with the accuracy, especially with the fixed iron sights. so to test the accuracy I aimed exactly at the x of the BE at 10yds. First shot, I hit about a 1/4" from the x at 10 yds. I was impressed. all of my shots were in about a 2.5" group at 10 yds.
So I taught him about the 1911's working, and his Dad taught him the rest (safety, protocol) at the range. His Dad loved the gun too. My nephew wanted to shoot mine to see the difference in feel. he shot mine then I let him shoot some of the Hornady 220gn crit def +P in mine. That bullet feels really smooth, with a bigger kick. I did not let him shoot it in his until he checks and shows me the owners manual on ammunition.
So, that spring? any information? its fine, it sucks, replace with such and such, leave it alone til it gets to weak? any advice?
Guide Rod & Spring Plug? seems like a longer throat/rod would give less wiggle, or am i just looking at it wrong?
Trigger? I am sure he does not want to void the warranty right off the bat. any advice?
Here is a shot of his gun

 

[Uncle Bob]

Full length guide rod or Commander sized guide rod has nothing to do with the slide - frame fit. It won't help if the slide is a bit loose and rattles.

Weight of the trigger pull can be multiple issues, most commonly adjusting the sear spring. You can also polish the yoke of the trigger to get a smoother pull.

 

[Steve in Allentown]

1. The Tanker is a Commander style 4.25" barrel.
2. So, the guide rod & spring felt really weak and light; mine is a lot stiffer and firmer.
3. the magazine spring feels weak and flimsy
4. And the trigger has to be close to 10 pounds pull.

Here are a couple of quick thoughts to add to Uncle Bob's.

The 1911 world is chock full of opportunities to spend money. Here's how I would spend my money on a new 1911 that I had concerns with.

First I would replace all the springs with Wolff springs. The standard weight recoil spring for a Commander length slide is 18lbs. The standard weight for the mainspring (hammer spring) is 23lbs. Wolff includes an extra power firing pin spring with every recoil spring.

I would replace the recoil spring guide rod with a Harrison HD-232-B Commander guide rod.

I would replace the magazine with one of the following: Check-Mate 7 round, Thunder Mountain Ultimate Match, McCormick 7 round, or Wilson 7 round. There are many more magazine manufacturers and everyone has their own favorite. I think the Thunder Mountain is the best of the the bunch above.

As Bob says there can be many reasons why your trigger pull is so heavy. Either have a 'smith do a 4lb trigger job on it or buy a Cylinder & Slide kit which many have reported as being drop in.

So, there's lots of gift suggestions for your nephew's first blaster.

 

[Yosemiteken]

Full length guide rod or Commander sized guide rod has nothing to do with the slide - frame fit. It won't help if the slide is a bit loose and rattles.

Weight of the trigger pull can be multiple issues, most commonly adjusting the sear spring. You can also polish the yoke of the trigger to get a smoother pull.

The slide is not loose or rattles, so that is good. I wiggle I mentioned was worded improperly I guess. I was wondering if the shorter plus and rod would make the spring not operate as straight, and if the spring might wobble against the sides. I don't hear that, just curious about any effects the shorter plug and rod might have inside.

So I can look up those adjustments on you tube and see what is involved?

 

[Yosemiteken]

Here are a couple of quick thoughts to add to Uncle Bob's.

The 1911 world is chock full of opportunities to spend money. Here's how I would spend my money on a new 1911 that I had concerns with.

First I would replace all the springs with Wolff springs. The standard weight recoil spring for a Commander length slide is 18lbs. The standard weight for the mainspring (hammer spring) is 23lbs. Wolff includes an extra power firing pin spring with every recoil spring.

I would replace the recoil spring guide rod with a Harrison HD-232-B Commander guide rod.

I would replace the magazine with one of the following: Check-Mate 7 round, Thunder Mountain Ultimate Match, McCormick 7 round, or Wilson 7 round. There are many more magazine manufacturers and everyone has their own favorite. I think the Thunder Mountain is the best of the the bunch above.

As Bob says there can be many reasons why your trigger pull is so heavy. Either have a 'smith do a 4lb trigger job on it or buy a Cylinder & Slide kit which many have reported as being drop in.

So, there's lots of gift suggestions for your nephew's first blaster.

WOW, that was awesome. I keep trying to get the young fart to join so he can see this and ask his own questions. I will get these to him as future upgrades. And something his Dad and I can get for presents. Thank you guys so much. I have learned a lot here; and you guys are a great help.

 

[sinister]

Get him quality American replacement springs. The Tanker (Commander) spring guide and plug are shorter -- to fit a shorter barrel and slide. Of course it's going to be shorter than a government model's.

Shoot and tune the factory magazines before investing in replacements. Lots of people like Wilsons -- I don't. I'd probably buy Metalform Elites or Chip McCormick railed lip magazines, Mec-Gars at the least.

If his trigger pull is heavier than four or five pounds he's not going to learn as quickly or enjoy it as much as he would with a trigger that's correct. A good gunsmith can figure it out quickly, for not too crazy effort or work, using his original parts (before automatically going after-market).

You could do it on warranty, but I'm not that patient. That's why I learned to do my own tuning and sustainment maintenance.

Good luck to you guys. My grandfather gifted me his National Match when I was 14. It will go to my yet-to-be-born grandchildren.

 

[Geen]

I bought a Tisas Duty 45 a few weeks back. I have had the gun to the range a couple of times and did find it needed a litte work. Trigger was kind of heavy, sights were off, Safety not positive enough and grips were cheap plastic.

After a visit to my smith the trigger is now under 4 Lbs, Sights are dead on and the safety is more positive. I tried a few different grips and for now have settled on a set of american holly slim grips made from Texas Grips. The holly grips give the look of Ivory in a wood grip. Henry Lance ([email protected]) was great to deal with and got me the set of grips in just a few days.

So with a cost of $475 for the gun shipped and $100 for work done by my smith I have under $600 into a gun that I would take over most entry level 1911s. IMHO the all forged Tisas is a better choice than a Taurus, RIA, entry level Kimbers, Springers, Rugers and comes in a couple of hundred dollars cheaper.

 

[Yosemiteken]

I bought a Tisas Duty 45 a few weeks back. I have had the gun to the range a couple of times and did find it needed a litte work. Trigger was kind of heavy, sights were off, Safety not positive enough and grips were cheap plastic.

After a visit to my smith the trigger is now under 4 Lbs, Sights are dead on and the safety is more positive. I tried a few different grips and for now have settled on a set of american holly slim grips made from Texas Grips. The holly grips give the look of Ivory in a wood grip. Henry Lance ([email protected]) was great to deal with and got me the set of grips in just a few days.

So with a cost of $475 for the gun shipped and $100 for work done by my smith I have under $600 into a gun that I would take over most entry level 1911s. IMHO the all forged Tisas is a better choice than a Taurus, RIA, entry level Kimbers, Springers, Rugers and comes in a couple of hundred dollars cheaper.

View attachment 838288

View attachment 838289

I appreciate your estimate and like your advice and I am going to give this to my brother in law and hope he pays attention and does what is recommended. You are right, but I want to comment on one point only.

I have a slightly different opinion on one point, Ruger. I am ok with you having a different opinion too. I may sound defensive, but really only giving what I observed. And I am sure others might tell me how shitty my gun is and that is ok too. I only mentioned this as I have cleaned, shot and gone through both mine and his, and its not even close in my opinion. I am a newbie to 1911's somewhat (3 years present, and 4 years in the Navy 40 years ago), but I am a skilled tech with decades of experience, and used to making measurements within 2 thousandths of an inch, and my paperwork went to insurance companies, lawyers, and engineers, and if it blew up it was my fault. So not a gun expert, but I do know how to side by side test and measure something like a gun, which is simpler than what I used to work on. I only say this to establish my background, and its not guns, so I understand that too.

I only differ on the Tisas being as good as some you mentioned, but I can only discuss the Ruger. I might seem a little defensive, but I know mine is not the top end Ruger I own a Ruger and side by side, not true. I have both in my hand. This needs the spring (weak and flimsy), spring guide (to short), plug (to short) and grips (plastic instead of hardwood) all replaced. There is more work I see as well, the Slide Stop will not release as well and we have to work the slide to get it to release. The slide is not as tight as my Ruger, nor the internal parts although they are ok, but definitely not as tight. Its like they saved a little extra money by using just a little less metal on all the parts. Plus it needs the work you mentioned (trigger, safety) at about $100. So when I add the other parts plus your work, it's price is getting close to my Ruger (I can find on line about $900 new, list price now $1129,). I agree you get "all forged", but it's still not as tight a weapon. You get a one year warranty, and i get a lifetime warranty. While I see people who don't think Ruger is a good as (name the brand they like) I have shot others (S&W, SIG) and my Ruger performed just as well side by side; internally, shooting (what is supposed to be better), was just as tight and smooth, and my grouping just as accurate. I am not a "Ruger Guy", it was just my first purchase.

Again, not an argument, but explaining my difference of opinion.

 

[Geen]

I only differ on the Tisas being as good as some you mentioned, but I can only discuss the Ruger. I might seem a little defensive, but I know mine is not the top end Ruger I own a Ruger and side by side, not true. I have both in my hand. This needs the spring (weak and flimsy), spring guide (to short), plug (to short) and grips (plastic instead of hardwood) all replaced. There is more work I see as well, the Slide Stop will not release as well and we have to work the slide to get it to release. The slide is not as tight as my Ruger, nor the internal parts although they are ok, but definitely not as tight. Its like they saved a little extra money by using just a little less metal on all the parts. Plus it needs the work you mentioned (trigger, safety) at about $100. So when I add the other parts plus your work, it's price is getting close to my Ruger (I can find on line about $900 new, list price now $1129,). I agree you get "all forged", but it's still not as tight a weapon. You get a one year warranty, and i get a lifetime warranty. While I see people who don't think Ruger is a good as (name the brand they like) I have shot others (S&W, SIG) and my Ruger performed just as well side by side; internally, shooting (what is supposed to be better), was just as tight and smooth, and my grouping just as accurate. I am not a "Ruger Guy", it was just my first purchase.

Again, not an argument, but explaining my difference of opinion.

A point I have to make is that I was refrencing my Tisas Duty 45 and not the Mil spec version you have. the Duty 45 comes with a number of upgrades that the mil spec does not have includng a flat wound spring. a step up for a standard spring. at approx $600 that I have into the gun its much cheaper that the $900 Ruger. My Tisas slide to frame is nice and tight and with the trigger Job my smith did the trigger is nicer than any new entry level 1911 I have ever shot (which includes Kimber pro carry, a couple of Rugers a Springfield Ronin, a Taurus and a RIA). the only gun that I think was nicer than the duty 45 was my Bul Armory Govt 1911 and that was $800 new. you do get a better warranty but face it I can buy two Duty 45s *($455) for the price of the $900 Ruger.

 

[Yosemiteken]

A point I have to make is that I was refrencing my Tisas Duty 45 and not the Mil spec version you have. the Duty 45 comes with a number of upgrades that the mil spec does not have includng a flat wound spring. a step up for a standard spring. at approx $600 that I have into the gun its much cheaper that the $900 Ruger. My Tisas slide to frame is nice and tight and with the trigger Job my smith did the trigger is nicer than any new entry level 1911 I have ever shot (which includes Kimber pro carry, a couple of Rugers a Springfield Ronin, a Taurus and a RIA). the only gun that I think was nicer than the duty 45 was my Bul Armory Govt 1911 and that was $800 new. you do get a better warranty but face it I can buy two Duty 45s *($455) for the price of the $900 Ruger.

I think you missed on your math when you said "face it". You had to put the extra work and such that I did not have to do, and that made it $600, not $455, so you get 1.5 Rugers. I looked up your gun and there are 2 Duty: one msrp at $470, one a $500, so it looks like you got a good deal. You are probably right on what you have with your slight mods, but I would have to shoot it to agree. You probably understand that too.

I have had to use that warranty on my sights. I broke them; caught them in the seams/lips of a case and did not see that and pushed hard, crack!! I told them what i did; they offered to ship it and replace it free, I asked if they would send them to me and let my smith put it on, they did, no charge. My gun is 8 years old (I have owned it 3 years) and runs like a smooth machine; I guess it's why I say I would have to shoot yours to agree. I kind of got happy shooting and put about 6000 rounds through it in the last few months.

I probably would agree your's handles well and is cheaper, as these (1911's) are pretty tight machines. I really ended up liking this gun (Ruger) and really have not shot anything that I felt was "better" to own, but I have not shot many others either. I have shot the S&W and Sigs with the reps at a Range near me that are $1600-$2000 Performance/competition models and mine was just as good in performance. so I am not sure you can buy a bad one. I have seen people do as you did, put a little in it and you have a nice machine at a cheaper price.

When I bought mine I had not really researched them since I left the navy in 1983. I just knew I wanted a 1911 .45. I went to a very large gun shop here in Houston called Collector's firearms. It is in an old Barnes & Noble Store, so it is huge. Anything from ancient weapons to the most modern. I went there, handled about 30 1911's and this one felt the best of all i handled, so I bought it for $695 used in 2018. At the time I had just sold my house, so if it had been $3500 that felt the best, that is what I would have bought. If I had researched it, I probably would not have bought it, and bought the more expensive customs. This one just felt the best and smoothest of all of them. So I bought it because I did not know I was not supposed to. And I find I got a great gun that shoots as well as others that cost twice (or 1.5) the price.

 

[Steve in Allentown]

This needs the . . . spring guide plug (to short) . . .

As @sinister notes, the Commander recoil spring plug is shorter than the Government version. Cylinder & Slide makes one with the GI spec tab that screws onto the end of the recoil spring to prevent it from being launched into low Earth orbit.

 

[tac45]

My opinion is to use a high quality magazine, Wilson or Tripp , run the pistol wet while breaking in and
Leave the damn thing alone until proper function is established.
Throwing money at it won’t make it a Wilson , nighthawk or any other high end 1911 .
As I understand it , the pistol was purchased at that price point as a training tool and that’s what you have .
Have the young man shoot it with that purpose.
He would be better served by saving the money spent on parts and Gunsmithing for a purchase of a more refined 1911 down road. If it works don’t look for problems or induce them in an attempt to make it “ better “
A proper trigger is important for learning the platform ,have a qualified smith address that, spending money on“drop in “ parts is a huge mistake and fruitless.
Learn the basics, save money for an upgrade.

 

[Rangerman]

I am surprised at your estimate of the trigger pull weight. I have two Tisas pistols, the Commander sized carry model and the GI sized service model. Both are stock with no action work on them. They both have been shot probably 300 rounds each. I put my Lyman digital trigger gauge on them and the 5 pull average for the Carry model is 3.10 lbs. The service model 5 pull average is 3.7 lbs. Either you got a lemon or you are over estimating the pull by a lot. You might want to put a good trigger gauge on yours before you start changing things. I bought these guns to get familiar with the 1911 platform on the recommendation of a guy that is pretty knowledgeable about 1911s. In his opinion they are very solid pistols for the money and better than some that are priced much higher. A picture is attached.

 

[Geen]

I am surprised at your estimate of the trigger pull weight. I have two Tisas pistols, the Commander sized carry model and the GI sized service model. Both are stock with no action work on them. They both have been shot probably 300 rounds each. I put my Lyman digital trigger gauge on them and the 5 pull average for the Carry model is 3.10 lbs. The service model 5 pull average is 3.7 lbs. Either you got a lemon or you are over estimating the pull by a lot.

I was in my smiths shop when he put a gauge on it. He tested the Tisas and my BUL as I like the pull on the BUL and wanted him to get the Tisas down to what the BUL is. He tested the BUL and it came in 3.75 Lbs Avg. he tested the Tisas a few times and it came in just above 6 Lbs. avg I saw the guauge readings myself. I might have got a bad one from the facttory but the trigger is very nice now. that said the rear sight was visably off center and the sights were way off

 

[Yosemiteken]

My opinion is to use a high quality magazine, Wilson or Tripp , run the pistol wet while breaking in and
Leave the damn thing alone until proper function is established.
Throwing money at it won’t make it a Wilson , nighthawk or any other high end 1911 .
As I understand it , the pistol was purchased at that price point as a training tool and that’s what you have .
Have the young man shoot it with that purpose.
He would be better served by saving the money spent on parts and Gunsmithing for a purchase of a more refined 1911 down road. If it works don’t look for problems or induce them in an attempt to make it “ better “
A proper trigger is important for learning the platform ,have a qualified smith address that, spending money on“drop in “ parts is a huge mistake and fruitless.
Learn the basics, save money for an upgrade.

The best advice so far. thank you

 

[Yosemiteken]

I am surprised at your estimate of the trigger pull weight. I have two Tisas pistols, the Commander sized carry model and the GI sized service model. Both are stock with no action work on them. They both have been shot probably 300 rounds each. I put my Lyman digital trigger gauge on them and the 5 pull average for the Carry model is 3.10 lbs. The service model 5 pull average is 3.7 lbs. Either you got a lemon or you are over estimating the pull by a lot. You might want to put a good trigger gauge on yours before you start changing things. I bought these guns to get familiar with the 1911 platform on the recommendation of a guy that is pretty knowledgeable about 1911s. In his opinion they are very solid pistols for the money and better than some that are priced much higher. A picture is attached. View attachment 839030

I promise I am not over estimating the trigger pull. I realize I would doubt me too if I was reading this, so bear with me.

We were shooting mine side by side as well as his dad's Glock. His dad had his trigger reworked at 3.5lbs. Mine was checked by the smith who did my sight, its supposed to be 4lbs, but it was closer to 5.5lbs. When we all pulled his we were trying to not jerk the trigger because it was so hard. We stopped several times and looked at the gun a few times to see if we left the safety on or if we saw something wrong, because it was so hard. I shoot mine 100 rounds a week, sometimes more, so I am used to my trigger at 5.5lbs and his was tough. I only shot 7 rounds and had a very deep red groove in my finger it was so hard to pull. So did his Dad and my nephew. We kept laughing and looking at the deep gouges we had. our fingers went back to normal but took more than 10 minutes.

Ok, give me the wimpy finger remarks now. I will laugh with you.

I have copied all these comments to a word doc so I can give it to his dad. I just can't get them to join, but still working on it. I am hoping by printing out all this advice he and his son might go take a look at the site here.

His dad is a fireman and there is an old timer here across the street for the station who says he was the 1993 World Champion, George Booth. Don't know him, met him at a show and gave me some advice. Nice Guy. So I will try to have his dad take it across the street to let him look at it.

Thank you again. And thank you for questioning me. I cannot learn otherwise.

 

[Geen]

I think you missed on your math when you said "face it". You had to put the extra work and such that I did not have to do, and that made it $600, not $455, so you get 1.5 Rugers. I looked up your gun and there are 2 Duty: one msrp at $470, one a $500, so it looks like you got a good deal. You are probably right on what you have with your slight mods, but I would have to shoot it to agree. You probably understand that too.

I have had to use that warranty on my sights. I broke them; caught them in the seams/lips of a case and did not see that and pushed hard, crack!! I told them what i did; they offered to ship it and replace it free, I asked if they would send them to me and let my smith put it on, they did, no charge. My gun is 8 years old (I have owned it 3 years) and runs like a smooth machine; I guess it's why I say I would have to shoot yours to agree. I kind of got happy shooting and put about 6000 rounds through it in the last few months.

I probably would agree your's handles well and is cheaper, as these (1911's) are pretty tight machines. I really ended up liking this gun (Ruger) and really have not shot anything that I felt was "better" to own, but I have not shot many others either. I have shot the S&W and Sigs with the reps at a Range near me that are $1600-$2000 Performance/competition models and mine was just as good in performance. so I am not sure you can buy a bad one. I have seen people do as you did, put a little in it and you have a nice machine at a cheaper price.

When I bought mine I had not really researched them since I left the navy in 1983. I just knew I wanted a 1911 .45. I went to a very large gun shop here in Houston called Collector's firearms. It is in an old Barnes & Noble Store, so it is huge. Anything from ancient weapons to the most modern. I went there, handled about 30 1911's and this one felt the best of all i handled, so I bought it for $695 used in 2018. At the time I had just sold my house, so if it had been $3500 that felt the best, that is what I would have bought. If I had researched it, I probably would not have bought it, and bought the more expensive customs. This one just felt the best and smoothest of all of them. So I bought it because I did not know I was not supposed to. And I find I got a great gun that shoots as well as others that cost twice (or 1.5) the price.

Buds guns hs the duty 45 in stock for $452 with free shipping. Me having a trigger job done most likely voided the warranty anyway. You can look at it anyway you want still I stand by my math as even if a frame cracked I would still have the Grips and spare parts that I would keep even after buying a new replacement gun so 2 Tisas for the price of 1 Ruger. If I had a choice, I would take the Tisas Duty 45 over the Ruger. There is nothing wrong with a Ruger it's just an entry level 1911 and for an entry level the Tisas has more upgrades than any entry level gun I have found and it cost less than any of them.

 

[boubonwoodart]

The strongest point of Tisas 1911 platfrom is its forged steel frame, upgrading it with US parts will optimize it

 

[seagiant]

Hi,
My opinion, and admittedly not all will agree, but...

If a Frame and Slide is forged of good steel, and machined to spec...

Does it really matter if it has "Tisas" on the side or Bill Wilson?

Of course, I'm only talking manufacturing...

I see the Tisas today with the forgings and the hammer forged barrel as a best buy...

Not unlike the Norinco 45's years ago.

What someone does with it, is up to them, but the foundation is solid, as Mr. Laughridge found, with, the Tisas, BHP Clone!