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I'm done buying guns, I'm just a bystander now
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I wouldn't call this a trigger job --as it started out as a trigger swap -- but I did polish the bows with 800 grit Scotchbrite and then finished the sides and rear of the trigger bow in Flitz, it was like polished glass. Then I addressed the part of the disconnector the rests on the rear of the trigger bow with Flitz. Why stop there? I then hit the the tips of the middle and left sear spring with Flitz. Then lastly polished the pins along with the hammer strut and finally the sides of the hammer (what I'll call the hammer cam-area where the pin passes through).

I was surprised how much I had to remove off the top/bottom of the trigger pad and that took plenty of time to get the right fit. By the time I was done the trigger traveled effortlessly but not loose within the channel on the frame.

The trigger feels good, 10 pulls on the trigger gauge resulted in a 3.3 lbs average it started at 3.8 lbs.

I also addressed some faint remnants of an idiot scratch with oil and 1000 grit Scotchbrite and then swapped out the grips to some thin profile Sarge grips I had been hording for no apparent reason.

First the idiot scratch. Oil and Scotchbrite.

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I'm pretty happy and really think the black 3-hole trigger sets off the gun.

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This was my first complete strip of a 1911, it wasn't nearly as scary as I thought. Getting the mainspring housing up into the gun and the pin in was clearly the most challenging part.

Now I'll go through every gun and detail strip and clean them all. I have no idea how much this gun was shot, the sights said 2013 but the internals had some powder and oil but I wouldn't call it dirty. In fact, there's very little wear on anything and what wear there was the Scotchbrite and Flitz made easy work of.

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This project is nearly complete. I still am committed to making this a two-tone and need to have the slide treatment done before sending it off for DLC although I may have it blue'd instead.

Originally I was intending to do something very non-traditional with the slide, over the top, like a ported slide and still may pursue that. Thoughts? Love, hate or don't care.

I would do something like this with the flattened and serrated slide and some port cuts up front.

Maybe not a single long one like this but maybe tow or three smaller ones

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Not bad for a bubba. Actually, good job, it looks awesome! I'd be very careful with how much you're "polishing" off though, you don't want to make the pistol unsafe.
 

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I'm done buying guns, I'm just a bystander now
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7,120 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'd be very careful with how much you're "polishing" off though, you don't want to make the pistol unsafe.
By all accounts, and by my research, polishing with Flitz doesn't remove any material or alter shapes it simply polishes a surface. Making it like glass.
 

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By all accounts, and by my research, polishing with Flitz doesn't remove any material or alter shapes it simply polishes a surface. Making it like glass.
Polishing is basically sanding metal. As fine as it may be, you are removing metal to some degree. I've seen guys wreck Glock parts with Flitz so there must be some truth there. I imagine they had to go a bit crazy to get to that point though. I do know for a fact it will burn through nickel plating.
 

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By all accounts, and by my research, polishing with Flitz doesn't remove any material or alter shapes it simply polishes a surface. Making it like glass.
Sir, at the risk of sounding mean.......

Flitz still removes material, alters the shape and rounds edges. Polishing is essentially the same as grinding or sanding. You are just using a much finer abrasive. The finer the abrasive, the longer it takes to remove material as the scratches being placed on the material are much smaller
 

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I'm done buying guns, I'm just a bystander now
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
we can argue about this all day but I'm fairly confident that a small dollop of Flitz on the head of a cue-tip for 30 seconds didn't make this gun a ticking time bomb.
 

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Flitz still removes material, alters the shape and rounds edges. Polishing is essentially the same as grinding or sanding. You are just using a much finer abrasive. The finer the abrasive, the longer it takes to remove material as the scratches being placed on the material are much smaller
we can argue about this all day but I'm fairly confident that a small dollop of Flitz on the head of a cue-tip for 30 seconds didn't make this gun a ticking time bomb.
Both of these are accurate statements.

I always hear about these 1911’s that go full auto but with all the Bubba’ smithing that goes on in this forum I don’t ever recall anyone getting hurt from something they did to a gun themselves. Wallets maybe but no physical injuries that I recall. Just make sure it passes all the function tests after you’re done.
 

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I've sat for hours with Zoids Magic Loin Cloth polishing random ****, especially the first day I got it.
It's easy to lose yourself when you're chasing the shine.

Was just an fyi in regards to polishing - qyour bubba'ing is definitely better than mine. Gun looks great, I'm glad the trigger feels awesome.
 

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I'm done buying guns, I'm just a bystander now
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Looks good but you can scratch bluing it stainless doesn’t blue.
Yes, you are correct.

This local place (I'm done sending guns around the country -- or in this case a slide) does this black oxide treatment which they refer to as bluing.

Black Oxide & Stainless Blackening

More commonly known as “Bluing” in the firearm community. Black oxide coatings provide a thin corrosion resistant oxide for ferrous materials. The black coating is both decorative and functional. The oxide provides corrosion resistance without producing any dimensional changes in the components. The coating can be applied to all ferrous materials including stainless steel.

Wright Armory offers firearm restoration services for both Water and Fire Damage in both the Black Oxide and Stainless Black Finishes. Each firearm restoration job is very unique, please contact us for pricing on your restoration job.
 

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NHC Falcon, Shadow Hawk, G21 and 19X
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Looks good buddy!!
 

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Bluing is beautiful, no doubt!
But it offers so little protection from corrosion,
that it is NOT an option on my builds.
 
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