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Discussion Starter #1
So, I got a Dan Wesson, thought I would try a short trigger pad. Liked it, but a ton of travel compared to the stock medium trigger.

So, what determines the trigger travel? (distance the trigger has to go before firing). Sorry if my terms are not correct. My other 1911's have very short trigger travel, and with the stock trigger back in the DW, it is much better.

Trigger I got was a WC short trigger.

Thanks for any info.
 

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The Tinker
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It's the length of the bow/stirrup. If it's not too bad, a stirrup die (Brownells) can be used to lengthen the stirrup a bit. I've also been known to put a dimple on the inside of the back of the stirrup to take up some of the room between it and the disconnector. Or silver solder a shim on the back of the stirrup to do the same thing.
 
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A number of aftermarket triggers (including Wilsons or at least the ones I have fit) will include tabs to dial out pre-travel.

If you have a solid bar, it can also be notched to allow it as well.
 

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The Tinker
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A number of aftermarket triggers (including Wilsons or at least the ones I have fit) will include tabs to dial out pre-travel.

If you have a solid bar, it can also be notched to allow it as well.
Very true. Forgot about those.
 
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Out of curiosity, which short trigger did you use?

I had swapped my stock DW Valor trigger out with an Ed Brown short trigger and the take-up didn't change (the trigger bows were the same length).

Now, maybe I just got lucky, and there is some significant variability between Dan Wessons.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Interesting, and thanks for the replies. I was thinking it had to be overall length of what I call the trigger bow. With my other 1911's having the medium trigger, I think I will keep the DW with the stock trigger for now. I used a trigger track stone, and some fine sandpaper to slick the stock trigger, seems a lot smoother now.

The trigger I got from WC is this one: https://shopwilsoncombat.com/Trigger-Ultralight-Match-Short-Pad/productinfo/190S/
 

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The Tinker
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Those tabs on the front of the bow are what is used to adjust trigger travel.
 
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Consider my signature line before replying . . . .
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Many of the Fusion triggers have those as well.



A number of aftermarket triggers (including Wilsons or at least the ones I have fit) will include tabs to dial out pre-travel.

If you have a solid bar, it can also be notched to allow it as well.
Very true. Forgot about those.
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Crap! Now I see how to adjust it! I had to google what you were saying about the tabs. So, you slowly bend the tabs in the front of the trigger towards the front of the gun, which will push the trigger farther back, eliminating extra takeup?
 

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Make sure you have enough pre travel for the safety catch on the hammer not just the sear. Can’t think of the name.

David
 

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The Tinker
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Crap! Now I see how to adjust it! I had to google what you were saying about the tabs. So, you slowly bend the tabs in the front of the trigger towards the front of the gun, which will push the trigger farther back, eliminating extra takeup?
Yes. Be careful not to make it too close to the disconnector. Bad things can happen if it's too close, e.g., trigger bounce or other malfunctions.

After adjusting the trigger stirrup, MAKE SURE that everything functions properly. If you're not sure exactly how to do that, enlist the help of someone who does.

Please. :)
 
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The Tinker
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Without going into details, limiting the amount of pre-travel and over-travel too much can cause bad things like the hammer not clearing the half-cock or allowing the lockwork to reset properly. I'm not trying to be intentionally vague here, but if I start trying to list off everything you need to check, and I forget something, I don't want to be the cause of anything Bad.

While I trust myself to do all this on autopilot at my bench, trying to remember everything while pecking at a keyboard might be a bit much for me as I think faster than I can type. ;)
 
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Discussion Starter #15
I get it Wrmiller, and appreciate the help. Looking at the trigger movement with the slide locked open and a flashlight helps me see what all is going on. And I can see the slight bend on the tabs of the stock trigger.

Certainly increases my respect for Mr. Browning.
 

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The Tinker
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If you're comfortable doing it, take the top end off, remove the grip safety, and reassemble the lower.

I put my thumb over the hammer to keep it from hitting the frame, but try pulling the trigger and watch how the trigger bow meets the disconnector, which meets the lower feet on the sear and pushes it. Then use the same thumb that is blocking the hammer to depress the disconnector and see how the trigger bow and disconnector 'miss' the sear and prevent the hammer from falling.

There's more going on in these pistols than some folks realize.
 
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